2013 cannondale supersix evo - spindle removal

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G6612
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:20 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

by G6612

I have a 2013 evo sisl2 cranks and I have them removed. How and the hell to I get the spindle out! I assume I pound with a rubber mallet on the non drive side. I have pounded but no movement any tricks to get this thing out?

AZR3
Posts: 997
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:00 pm
Location: Az USA

by AZR3

I haven't done it but I have a hi-mod I'm going to be building soon and asked a similar question (how to install) and I was told to get a can of compressed air, turn the can upside down and spray the areas of the single by the bearings, this will hopefully shrink the spindle enough to tap it out with the rubber mallet.

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G6612
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:20 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

by G6612

Compressed air worked got it out, have a question the one bearing feels a little rough as I spin it with my fingers, does this sound like a bad bearing and should I replace it? Could this be what was causing my creaking sound. I have a set of bearings from when I purchased my hollowingram sl for my old supersix. Could I use these bearing or should I order new. What bearing and what size should I get.

AZR3
Posts: 997
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:00 pm
Location: Az USA

by AZR3

I'd assume you could use the bearings from your SL crank, shouldn't be any different. Can't comment if that's he source of your creak but I'd change any bearing that feels rough.

ParisCarbon
Posts: 1914
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Location: Winnipeg Canada

by ParisCarbon

I had a Cannondale EVO HiMod frame like that as well... I had to POUND .. and I mean POUND on the spindle with a rubber mallet to get that mofo out.. could never figure out why...

Yes rough bearing is the cause of your creak... if you have Pressfit cups as well it could be that...

I had so much grief with bottom brackets in my HoMod that I switched to a BBInfinite and all my problems disappeared...

kramnnim
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:18 pm

by kramnnim

I put my spindle in a drill and sanded it down enough so that the spindle slides in with hand pressure (like other BB30 crank spindles).

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G6612
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:20 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

by G6612

My one PF sleeve I can just pull out looks like it was not held in by anything. Should I just grease it and put it back in or lock tite it back into the frame.

ParisCarbon
Posts: 1914
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Location: Winnipeg Canada

by ParisCarbon

Clean the surfaces with ISO alcohol, and use green loctite on it.. a poorly bonded PF cup is a HUGE source of noise...

G6612 wrote:My one PF sleeve I can just pull out looks like it was not held in by anything. Should I just grease it and put it back in or lock tite it back into the frame.

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G6612
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:20 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

by G6612

OK now a question on installation, when installing the spindle there is no edge to stop the spindle when putting it in. I would assume the logical thing would to just make it even on both sides from the bearings. After I have the cranks installed is there anyway to check or what would be the easiest way to check to make sure I have even spacing for both sides of the cranks.

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LeDuke
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Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2012 2:39 am
Location: Front Range, CO

by LeDuke

If you visually inspect the spindle itself, and run your fingers along it, you should feel and see some very slightly raised areas that should rest on the bearings themselves.

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G6612
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:20 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

by G6612

How do you identify those areas when you are pounding the spindle back in? I am thinking it would be hard to identify them when installed in the bike.

rheosibal
Posts: 315
Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:26 pm
Location: LA

by rheosibal

Here's what I usually do:

Torque the NDS arm to the spindle at spec, then freeze the whole dang thing (spindle and NDS arm). When it's ready (~20min), slide the NDS washers/spacers on, slide it in the BB shell, and torque the DS on the other side to spec.

Reason I do this, is because the spindle will somewhat "expand" in a small period of time, so attaching the NDS side before freezing leaves less room for error. By doing this, I pretty much get it right every time (8 times so far) without having a funked up chain line.
Instagram: joserheo

|| Mosaic RT-1 || Cannondale Evo || Cannondale CAAD10 ||

rheosibal
Posts: 315
Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:26 pm
Location: LA

by rheosibal

Also, by freezing it, you won't have to hammer it back in. Which is nice, since you don't wanna mess up the new bearings
Instagram: joserheo

|| Mosaic RT-1 || Cannondale Evo || Cannondale CAAD10 ||

by Weenie


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ParisCarbon
Posts: 1914
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Location: Winnipeg Canada

by ParisCarbon

You're having this same hammering issue I had with my 2012 EVO HiMod frameset which was also PF30... I went through so many bearings and spindles it was out of control... seemed every 2-3 months it was one or the other.. it was almost like there was misalignment in the BB shell.. once I installed a BBINfinite in there, it was the end of ALL my problems... yes expensive initially, but in the end, no grief... and its sealed to so no water, sand, or other road debris can get into the opening around the FD cable guide..

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