Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi Mod build - suggestions please

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

Moderator: robbosmans

User avatar
VTR1000SP2
Posts: 930
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:21 pm

by VTR1000SP2

Ed, my climber wheelset is 17mm width on the inside, with 23mm GP4000sII mounted, actual external width when inflated to 110psi is 25mm and fits my SSEVOHM frameset without issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Focus Izalco Max - 4.84kg without pedals
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg

multy74
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:02 pm

by multy74

my choice Campagnolo Shamal Ultra (clincher ~1425g £570 ex-vat)
and Campagnolo Record (~2033g £840 ex-vat)

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

Hi multy74 - that was the plan! But I ended up buying Dura Ace shifters/RD/FD etc (mostly down to fit/feel and cost).

The box with all the DA arrived today ... looks very nice. Loosely added the saddle and post to the frame with some fibre grip and have done the same with the bars and stem - just to get a feel for how it will end up.

Need to piece it together now (and buy wheels).

Bought some Fizik Superlight classic soft touch black bar tape today along with some Finish line teflon grease.

On another note - I want to refresh my CAAD8 now. Will save up a bit first. Buying all this kit for the SSEvo makes parts for the CAAD8 seem cheap.

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

Starting to put it all together.

Probably a stupid question, but here goes...

What is the best way to cable up the brake levers for a Supersix? Right/Rear or Left/Rear?

It looks like the right brake lever is controlling the rear brake in most image searches for a Supersix but on my CAAD8 the right lever controls the front brake (I am UK based).

User avatar
VTR1000SP2
Posts: 930
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:21 pm

by VTR1000SP2

Most UK bikes have routing as your CAAD8 does. Most North American builds I see are opposite. I prefer the UK routing and it works for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Focus Izalco Max - 4.84kg without pedals
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

Torque

So... I now have the tools for putting the BB in (2x Parktool BBT-29 spanners for the threaded PF30 from Wheels Manuf.) and I think that the torque is 40nm.

I have no way of measuring this - is it just tighten it up pretty hard?

Also...the SISL2 cranks arm to ring connection is 40nm (or 47nm depending on the page you read...) and the fixing nuts for the SISL2 are 40nm too.

I have a torque wrench but it only goes to 15nm I think.

Is it worth getting hold of a torque wrench to go up to 40nm or is it ok to guess / 'do it up tight...' - am guessing pedals and other connections are higher than 15nm? How useful is a higher rated TW?

I think my motorbike riding neighbour has a TW that goes up to 40nm.
Ed

User avatar
4ibanez
Posts: 556
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 4:54 pm
Location: Norwich, UK
Contact:

by 4ibanez

I put mine in with a home made tool - much cheaper than Parktool! Just press em in fully. I don't see any need to measure torque. It will require whatever it needs to just get the cups into the frame. Prepare for some fairly horrible noises rattling through your frame!

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

@4ibanez - http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf ... black.html
It's the threaded one - sort of hybrid press/thread 30 fit.... requires a BBT-29 or similar.

What about the other threaded parts that require 40nm ? Do people use a torque wrench or guess?

Also how do you hold the rings on the SISL2 when you tighten up the rings to the arm?
I have bought Loctite 242 as the instructions say.
Do you just put the rings in a vice vertically and then add the arm and tightening ring?

defride
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri May 09, 2014 4:26 pm

by defride

island wrote:@4ibanez - http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf ... black.html
It's the threaded one - sort of hybrid press/thread 30 fit.... requires a BBT-29 or similar.

What about the other threaded parts that require 40nm ? Do people use a torque wrench or guess?

Also how do you hold the rings on the SISL2 when you tighten up the rings to the arm?
I have bought Loctite 242 as the instructions say.
Do you just put the rings in a vice vertically and then add the arm and tightening ring?


The Spidering lockring tool is tricky to use with a torque wrench but it's not a bad idea to ensure that the crank bolts are torqued correctly. Not sure a vice would leave your rings in a good state with the amount of force required to tighten correctly, I've seen people use the floor with a knee to stop the upright crankset from moving. Most common diy way of attaching the Spidering is to put the tool in a bench vice and use your weight to keep the crank in place while turning, not possible to check the correct torque this way but seems to work for most.

If you're also looking for a BB press the Lifeline one is as good as any and less expensive the most.

Good luck with the build

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

Cool, thanks.

I actually managed to do it with my neighbour's help - I held the arm and rings and he had the torque wrench - did it up to 40nm to start with and with two people this is fairly easy, then went up to 47nm as per the lock ring info. Bit harder to hold but did it in the end - added loctite 242 before doing it up.

I have a basic bearing press so will give the BB a go tomorrow.

A mate dropped off a bike stand so at least I can work on the frame properly.

Getting there!

STILL trying to decide on whether to buy £500/£600 high end alloy wheels or to go all-out on some £800/£900 carbon beauties...
Probably Fulcrum Racing Zero alloy vs Racing Zero carbon (unless I can get the Fulcrum Speed 40 clinchers).

Junior7
Posts: 96
Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:39 am

by Junior7

What were the choices?

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

OK...
Have just fitted the BB - the cups slide in with firm hand pressure and I screwed them together up to fairly tight pressure (35nm to 50nm is the recommendation I think).

Anway, have tried to fit the SISL2 and am having issues with the non-drive side.
There is way too much space even with 2 spacers. The wave-washer doesn't compress at all.

I am guessing that the SISL2 I bought has a 109mm axel and the 68mm BB shell of the supersix evo HM 2015 requires a 104mm axel?
Any thoughts?
Have used the SISl2 installation guide pdf.

Thanks
Ed

User avatar
VTR1000SP2
Posts: 930
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:21 pm

by VTR1000SP2

109mm is right and this is all the spacers/caps/washer needed - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/103 ... 7%20PM.jpg

Check to ensure spindle is fully installed on both sides.
Focus Izalco Max - 4.84kg without pedals
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

Thanks - I have it different than in your picture.
On the drive side I have :
rings | 2.5mm drive side spacer | 2mm bearing shield --------- 2mm bearing shield | wave-washer | 0.5 shim | 0.5mm shim | non-drive spacer (for 68mm shell) | non-drive crank arm

You have rings | 2mm bearing shield | 2.5mm drive side spacer --- etc

I'll see if I can borrow my neighbours torque wrench to get it to a specific 40nm.

Thanks for the info VTR.

island
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 3:47 pm

by island

Back on this project after spending August in the Alps :)

Here is a list of the current state: https://lighterpack.com/r/b56spf

So - wheels are the next thing to buy.

I've been reading lots on this forum and the posts on 'in the know cycing' but still haven't got a clear idea of what I am after.

Was initially aiming for the Bora35 but then went with DA.
Then was focusing on Fulcrum wheels (probably Speed40C).

Now I am chucking that all out and asking what is a good wheelset for this frame and my riding?
6'2" / 89kg / try to ride 100miles to 150miles a week / short 20milers to 30milers / like to try and sprint - out of the saddle full power
It is windy here - most you get is 30 minutes in one direction with a tail wind before having to head across or into the wind (it's an island) so wheels like Zipp 404 are too deep in my opinion.
Terrain is flat with occasional hill. Coastal.

Hoping to spend less than £1000 (ex-vat).

Shimano DA C35 (£875)
Also the C40 (~£1100).
Am I right in thinking that the C35 would be better as it is cheaper and you only get another 2mm height increase with the C40?
Are the hubs equivalent?
C35 is 20.8mm wide and C40 is 24mm wide - think I am limited to GP4000sII 23mm tires due to frame width.

Zipp 303.
26.4mm wide and 45mm high - so better aero than the C35's but too wide for the frame? Hub issues too.... (£1260)

Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SLC (£1232) - 40mm high / 25mm wide
Just reading the thread on this forum and trying to see if they would suit me.

Handbuilt something or others?
Go for a mid-deep rim with DA hubs in 24/28 spoking? I got in touch with Wheelbuilder but he won't ship here.

Any advice?

Leaning towards DA C35 just based on price and thinking that the hubs are good and maintenance will be minimal. But they just don't look as s3xy as some of the others!

A mate is trying to get me to buy Enve 4.5's which would be nice but the price is waaay too much for me.

Thanks.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



Post Reply