Most competitive bicycle for a noob?

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nathanong87
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by nathanong87

out of those options, s3

AJS914
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by AJS914

For a young racer, I agree on riding what you have. You could also get a 11 speed Ultegra mini group for about $350 if you wanted to freshen up the drive train.

The other thing to consider is a used frame/bike. By checking craigslist and ebay, I've bought multiple high end (like $4000-5000 retail) framesets over the years for $1000 or less. Lots of folks buy bikes with the best of intentions that just end up sitting in the garage.

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han1337
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by han1337

davidalone wrote:As a former college racer, I'd agree with no need to spend big money on a bike... yet. Even now in my first job alot of the more cash strapped racers dont drop big money on bikes... there are better ways around it.

Get a good bike fit, power meter, race wheels, and a bike service. if necessary, future proof the bike by going to 11 speed. that will cost you way less than $3200. Some clip ons if you are going to do tris. pick up a semi-aero helmet and skinsuit if you need to do TTs. The CAAD 10 is a very capable race bike in itself, more than capable in road races and crits and tris. Learn to use that powermeter and you will be getting much faster than any bike will make you. use the money saved to TRAVEL to races, and you will become a much better racer from the experience.

After you get some good results and turn heads you might get people who will be willling to partially sponsor you, or sell you stuff cheap. thats when you pick up a carbon frame for a screaming deal. At least thats what I did....

Another option would be the second hand market. grab a nice, hardly used frame from a dentist or lawyer who has upgrade lust and build your bike around it.



Good point, if you dont have a skinsuit yet, this will give you the most aero for your buck!
More than the aero wheels, and if you find a castelli body paint on sale, that would be the way to go probably even before the wheels!

Bike Fit is also a good idea, that is also why I would not buy a new frame now.
Because you will change your position a lot till you have it perfectly dialed in.

I would do a retül fit with aero positioning and as a base from which to find your personal position.
In my experience, the position you will get is not perfect, but it is a very good starting point.
Be sure to note down any changes you make to the fit afterwards!

I could accept a ugly stem and spacer configuration to get into the perfect position on the caad10 for a while, but I could not accept a ugly spacer/stem configuration on a shiny new expensive bike ..

That would really suck, which is also a reason of not getting a complete new bike just now..

It takes some time and experience to find out the perfect position, and it is a big value in making you more aero, way more gains than an s3 frame can ever provide.

Maybe some years later, when you are sure about your position, you can consider adding a new frame to the other stuff you already have and putt it all together.

mimason
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by mimason

Chances are he's going to get a new bike no matter what advice he hears. He's in college remember.

I'd choose the one that fits/feels the best but likely either the TCR or S3. The TCR comes with nice wheels and the S3's are training wheels so value goes to Giant. You can get aero with bike positioning and snug kit, helmet etc. so I would not overthink the aero part. It's also likely the Giants wheel would be a good bit slipperier than those Mavs.

jmaccyd
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by jmaccyd

Well the S3 can be made into a very passable TT bike. I used to have an S1 with a spare seat post in the TT configuration with a TT saddle fitted and posted decent times when I did a bit of TTing here and there. Just changed over seat posts for road and TT races.

I did crack two S1s though, and although Cervelo warranted them with no hassle. Indeed, when my second S1 cracked they upgraded me to a S2. Do seem to have there fair share of frames that crack, they will warranty, but just something to be aware of. I would ride a Cervelo again, but certainly would not buy one used that is out of warranty. Just a thought!

justkeepedaling
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by justkeepedaling

jmaccyd wrote:Well the S3 can be made into a very passable TT bike. I used to have an S1 with a spare seat post in the TT configuration with a TT saddle fitted and posted decent times when I did a bit of TTing here and there. Just changed over seat posts for road and TT races.

I did crack two S1s though, and although Cervelo warranted them with no hassle. Indeed, when my second S1 cracked they upgraded me to a S2. Do seem to have there fair share of frames that crack, they will warranty, but just something to be aware of. I would ride a Cervelo again, but certainly would not buy one used that is out of warranty. Just a thought!


The Aluminum aero Cervelos were known to have problems. Usually at the seatpost clamp area.

Haven't seen any failures of this kind for the latest carbon frames. Actually, I haven't really heard much about Cervelos cracking in the old common spots anymore.

Just get a new S2 frameset, wheels, and skinsuit.

DamenH85
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by DamenH85

S3

Aero ftw! :D

eric
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by eric

JunkyCollegeBiker18 wrote:I appreciate the advice. Maybe this is the route I go after all. Although crits aren't my priority I still feel confident on my Caad10 on any type of road race.


Just ride the bike you have. The bike makes a very small difference in your performance. You haven't even started racing yet. You might not like racing, might get interested in some other form of racing (track or TT or mtb) or some other activity entirely. Keep the money in the bank in case you need it later. It's always good to have a cushion.

grilledcheese
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by grilledcheese

I agree with most people in this thread.

If you get a new bike, the S3 probably suits your riding terrain best.

However, I think your current bike is probably fine. You could use that $3k to get some better wheels, a power meter, and some other nice upgrades or kit. Unfortunately, racing is expensive, whether it's traveling, replacing chain/gears, or breaking/wearing things out. No matter what you'll spend much more than the sticker price for a new bike. Pedals, cages, different size stem, better saddle, etc. Furthermore, cervelos typically come stock with pretty bad wheels, which you might want to upgrade.

All in all there is a great feeling about a new bike, but if your current one fits well and can do the job, you could probably spend your cash on upgrades to that bike.

JunkyCollegeBiker18
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by JunkyCollegeBiker18

I took some advice and ended up buying a more reasonable 2016 Giant TCR Advanced 1. It weighs in at 16.31 lbs with a lot of places to shave some weight but I saved enough and am on the verge of ordering a Pioneer or stages power meter. I still put some money back in the bank so I'll have enough to by a decent set of aero wheels when it comes time to race.

AE86Micah
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by AE86Micah

The new Fuji one.1 is a great bike for not much $$. Might be worth a look.

Gavf
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by Gavf

If you are racing, why buy a branded bike and then advertise this brand for free, in fact, paying big bucks to advertise someone elses brand.

There is no need these days to be spending big money on a frameset, get a open mould frame, they are just as good and build it up with what ever parts you like or what is on offer.

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prendrefeu
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by prendrefeu

Gavf wrote:get a open mould frame, they are just as good


Good, yes.
Just as good, debatable. Controlled environment testing protocol is required for comparison to 'name brand' equivalents in order to determine quantitative performance values. This has yet to truly happen for each 'open mould' frameset model and their mfg/distributor variants.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.

eric
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by eric

True. I'd like to see a comparison.

But a good open mold frame is probably good enough for most people, especially considering the price.

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mpulsiv
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by mpulsiv

eric wrote:
JunkyCollegeBiker18 wrote:I appreciate the advice. Maybe this is the route I go after all. Although crits aren't my priority I still feel confident on my Caad10 on any type of road race.


Just ride the bike you have. The bike makes a very small difference in your performance. You haven't even started racing yet. You might not like racing, might get interested in some other form of racing (track or TT or mtb) or some other activity entirely. Keep the money in the bank in case you need it later. It's always good to have a cushion.


^ This.
Don't invest thousand of dollars into something you aren't committed. In general consensus, more than half of cyclists quit, give up, complain, etc. CAAD10 is more than capable bike. Now, if you were riding a Huffy from Walmart, that would be another conversation.
Again, it's your call but from my perspective - you don't need S-works when Allez would do, you don't need Zipp 404 when Flo30 would do and the list goes on...
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.

:arrow: CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
:arrow: OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder

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