Speedplay zero nanogram pedals question.

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mattcooke
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by mattcooke

Fellas, where did you get the Ti bowties?
Toronto Cycles.

I got spindles from Ward but they said they don't sell bowties.

How about the bolts? same as Toronto or are there better ones out there.?

Butcher
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by Butcher

ms6073 wrote:What parts are you finding are not available?


Since the topic is Nanogram pedals, try asking around for Nanogram parts.

You will find that they are not available. I inquired a few years ago about buying alloy inserts for my Nanogram pedals and they said you have to send the entire pedal in for repairs/maintenance.

So, if you believe they are available for the public, post your links.

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Butcher
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by Butcher

I'm surprised you guys did not use the all ceramic bearings. Even lighter [but they did not last long, they do not handle the side loading well].

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ms6073
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by ms6073

mattcooke wrote:How about the bolts? same as Toronto or are there better ones out there.?

Toronto currently only has black bow ties and raw Ti bolts in stock. I am not in a big hurry, so I opted for Ebay and found both black Ti bow ties and bolts from a seller in Taiwan but probably wont see the parts for 3-4 weeks. I will agree that it is hard to find Nanogram replacement parts as Wiggle in the UK used to sell the rebuild kit that included an entire pedal body, bow ties, and hardware, but now they show it as 'no longer available'.
- Michael
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mythical
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by mythical

Even cheaper might be to purchase complete Zero Chrome-Moly pedals and replace the stock parts with tuning counterparts.

Butcher wrote:I'm surprised you guys did not use the all ceramic bearings. Even lighter [but they did not last long, they do not handle the side loading well].
The entire purpose of the cartridge bearings is to withstand the side loads on the pedals, since the needle bearings do not do this. Ceramic hybrid bearings, if readily available in the small sizes necessary for these pedals, would be a better option, but prices probably still make it an unfavorable option with too little gain.
“I always find it amazing that a material can actually sell a product when it’s really the engineering that creates and dictates how well that material will behave or perform.” — Chuck Teixeira

964Cup
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by 964Cup

mythical wrote:Even cheaper might be to purchase complete Zero Chrome-Moly pedals and replace the stock parts with tuning counterparts.

This is what I do. 75g per pedal with inexpensive Ti spindles and bowties. Compares to 84g for the standard Ti pedal. Obviously the Nanogram cleats are 20g lighter per side than the standard v2 Zero cleats, but you can buy them separately if you care enough.

kode54
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by kode54

BmanX wrote:The 122g was with Ward Ti Spindles that were the shortest available, alu bowties and Ti bolts. I have since changed them to Black Ti spindles, black ti bowties and ti bolts. I will have to weight them in this config to see what they come out to but they are more like your weight now.


where did you get the black Ti spindles? i've only seen raw Ti with no anodizing.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc

Erhar
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by Erhar

964Cup wrote:
mythical wrote:Even cheaper might be to purchase complete Zero Chrome-Moly pedals and replace the stock parts with tuning counterparts.

This is what I do. 75g per pedal with inexpensive Ti spindles and bowties. Compares to 84g for the standard Ti pedal. Obviously the Nanogram cleats are 20g lighter per side than the standard v2 Zero cleats, but you can buy them separately if you care enough.

It's not only the cleats of the nanogram that are lighter. The pedal itself weighs 65 gr.

964Cup
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by 964Cup

Erhar wrote:
964Cup wrote:
mythical wrote:Even cheaper might be to purchase complete Zero Chrome-Moly pedals and replace the stock parts with tuning counterparts.

This is what I do. 75g per pedal with inexpensive Ti spindles and bowties. Compares to 84g for the standard Ti pedal. Obviously the Nanogram cleats are 20g lighter per side than the standard v2 Zero cleats, but you can buy them separately if you care enough.

It's not only the cleats of the nanogram that are lighter. The pedal itself weighs 65 gr.

Yes, I know that. You can get there (or lower) with aftermarket parts on the standard body, but have to accept a shorter spindle. My point was that you can get a CrMo pedal to within 10g of the Nano for < US$100 of upgrade cost, but obviously will have the standard cleats, not the Nano ones. I know of no way to convert the standard cleats, so you'd have to buy those; they're about US$140 in the UK.

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reknop
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by reknop

BmanX wrote:I only ride on Speedplay pedals. I bought used SS version and then bought Ti bolts, aluminum and ti butterflies and new ti spindles. They were significantly cheaper going this route and weigh less than the Nano's. My modified pair weigh in at 122g for the pair. Nano's are a waste of money when you can build your own for less money and lighter.



Do you have a list of parts used during your modification ?
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mattcooke
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by mattcooke

I ordered some titanium butterflies and ti screws from an asian place on ebay. They came pretty quick.
To take the T15 bolts out of the pedals was actually pretty hard. I broke one T15 bit, but I am pretty sure it was super cheap bit.
But even when I bought a nice higher end bit I could not get one bolt to move. I had to use my wifes hair dryer to heat up the pedal and the loctite that held the bolt in place. It totally worked. I actually read about guys stripping bolts because the were in there so tight.

The butterflies are not actually flush. Look at the pics. They do clip in and out so I will test them when it stops raining here in Boulder.
They are lighter though.
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ms6073
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by ms6073

mattcooke wrote:I ordered some titanium butterflies and ti screws from an asian place on ebay.

I also ordered those ti bow-ties and bolts, probably from the same seller, for the wife's SpeedPlay zero's as well as 1/8" longer spindles from Excel Sports. Will agree that the after-market bow-ties do not sit as flush as the originals and the wife reported it was a slight bit harder to un-clip, but I suspect that is do to the wider q-factor. While I did not have any issues removing the bolts, the replacement Ti bolts did not have any thread lock compound applied to the bolt threads like the original stainless SpeedPlay bolts.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

Erhar
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by Erhar

To be honest what makes me most skeptical about the nanogram pedals is that the aluminum bowties are everywhere described as super sensitive and I'm afraid that after a few rides in the city where clip-unclip is necessary because of the traffic lights they will probably be highly damaged. After all they are referred as"race day only" pedal which means that they are made for racing, in other words clip onto the pedal once you start racing and unclip once when finishing the race. Any opinions from people who are already using the nanogram pedals would be mostly welcome. Thanks in advance for your answers.

Butcher
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by Butcher

2 years with 3-5k miles of riding. Commuted, trained, spirited team rides.

Speedplay is a very concerned about the legal aspects of their company. My understanding is the wife is a lawyer. The warning is to protect themselves. It is an alloy bow tie and a steel spring in the cleat. No matter how you look at it, the bow ties will wear out faster than ti or steel.

When I looked into this a few years ago, the answer I found was that they last over a year with regular riding that an avid WW cyclist does. I took that as a lot of miles.

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sclim
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by sclim

ms6073 wrote:
mattcooke wrote:I ordered some titanium butterflies and ti screws from an asian place on ebay.

I also ordered those ti bow-ties and bolts, probably from the same seller, for the wife's SpeedPlay zero's as well as 1/8" longer spindles from Excel Sports. Will agree that the after-market bow-ties do not sit as flush as the originals and the wife reported it was a slight bit harder to un-clip, but I suspect that is do to the wider q-factor. While I did not have any issues removing the bolts, the replacement Ti bolts did not have any thread lock compound applied to the bolt threads like the original stainless SpeedPlay bolts.

Considering that the issue with the aluminum bow-tie (if you got those instead of titanium) is more rapid wear, if one were content to use these as race day only pedals, would it be reasonable to use aluminum and not Ti screws too? If I fastened them with Loc-tite I wouldn't need to worry about inadvertent loosening despite non-destructive torquing.

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