Rotor ceramic PF4130 friction
Moderator: robbosmans
^ that's interesting as when I was looking Cbear didn't have a 4130 BB listed on their website or any of their compatibility charts?
Kogel, Enduro, HSC, Aita all make ceramic 4130 or alternatively check out Hope 4130 for a stainless variation.
I am using the standard Rotor 4130 currently and it appears to have more resistance but I do not notice it out on the road. It actually feels very smooth while riding. When it's time to replace this one I have an Enduro Cermaic to try. It won't be going in until the bearings are shot are the thing starts creaking.
Kogel, Enduro, HSC, Aita all make ceramic 4130 or alternatively check out Hope 4130 for a stainless variation.
I am using the standard Rotor 4130 currently and it appears to have more resistance but I do not notice it out on the road. It actually feels very smooth while riding. When it's time to replace this one I have an Enduro Cermaic to try. It won't be going in until the bearings are shot are the thing starts creaking.
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Fixie82 wrote:^ that's interesting as when I was looking Cbear didn't have a 4130 BB listed on their website or any of their compatibility charts?
Kogel, Enduro, HSC, Aita all make ceramic 4130 or alternatively check out Hope 4130 for a stainless variation.
They don't, but they actually produce it (at least they say it ). I emailed them, paid, not received it yet, though.
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Kogel, WheelsMfg, Hawx etc are all outside of the EU, from that perspective (no import taxes etc), Cbear is a no brainer.
Will see how good the product really is.
Will see how good the product really is.
Minimum bike categories required in the stable:
Aero bike | GC bike | GC rim bike | Climbing bike | Climbing rim bike | Classics bike | Gravel bike | TT bike | Indoors bike
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- cyclespeed
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:45 am
even though my Sworks came with Ceramicspeed bearings (BB30) as standard, I think it's a pointless place for ceramic.
You're talking about 100rpm, not 10 000.
I unpacked my bearings, flushed them out then lubed with a light oil. Now they spin nicely, but need regular maintenance (even though I don't really ride in the wet).
Seems a bit pointless to me to spec ceramic bearings then pack them so full of grease and with tight seals (to keep the water out) that they end up no better than a good SKF.
You're talking about 100rpm, not 10 000.
I unpacked my bearings, flushed them out then lubed with a light oil. Now they spin nicely, but need regular maintenance (even though I don't really ride in the wet).
Seems a bit pointless to me to spec ceramic bearings then pack them so full of grease and with tight seals (to keep the water out) that they end up no better than a good SKF.
I have the Rotor 4130 steel bearings. they were very tight when new..2 or 3 turns max. They loosened up a lot after couple of thousand miles ...8 or 10 turns now.
I have close to 8 thousand miles on these bearings and still spin freely . When these do wear out will probably replace with the new Kogel 4130, they are the only one that I know of that uses very thin races and then one row of the same size balls as in regular PF 30 BB.
I have close to 8 thousand miles on these bearings and still spin freely . When these do wear out will probably replace with the new Kogel 4130, they are the only one that I know of that uses very thin races and then one row of the same size balls as in regular PF 30 BB.
cyclespeed wrote:even though my Sworks came with Ceramicspeed bearings (BB30) as standard, I think it's a pointless place for ceramic.
You're talking about 100rpm, not 10 000.
I unpacked my bearings, flushed them out then lubed with a light oil. Now they spin nicely, but need regular maintenance (even though I don't really ride in the wet).
Seems a bit pointless to me to spec ceramic bearings then pack them so full of grease and with tight seals (to keep the water out) that they end up no better than a good SKF.
Normally I would agree with this wholeheartedly, however with the smaller ballbearings of the 4130 BB I was hoping that the ceramic variant would be longer lasting than standard steel due to their inherent increase in hardness and therefore better able to handle the loads.
I'm interested to know how often your service the BB after flushing? Do you notice any reduction in lifespan? I would be keen to try it out on my Rotor BB. I have some machine oil I use for freehubs, would that be suitable? Also have you noticed the bearing seal being deformed from removal?
- cyclespeed
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:45 am
Fixie82 wrote:cyclespeed wrote:even though my Sworks came with Ceramicspeed bearings (BB30) as standard, I think it's a pointless place for ceramic.
You're talking about 100rpm, not 10 000.
I unpacked my bearings, flushed them out then lubed with a light oil. Now they spin nicely, but need regular maintenance (even though I don't really ride in the wet).
Seems a bit pointless to me to spec ceramic bearings then pack them so full of grease and with tight seals (to keep the water out) that they end up no better than a good SKF.
Normally I would agree with this wholeheartedly, however with the smaller ballbearings of the 4130 BB I was hoping that the ceramic variant would be longer lasting than standard steel due to their inherent increase in hardness and therefore better able to handle the loads.
I'm interested to know how often your service the BB after flushing? Do you notice any reduction in lifespan? I would be keen to try it out on my Rotor BB. I have some machine oil I use for freehubs, would that be suitable? Also have you noticed the bearing seal being deformed from removal?
I'm no materials scientist but I'm not convinced that ceramic balls are 'better at handling the load'. Harder maybe, but how about brittle? Anyway, not sure on that point.
I'm still on the original Ceramicspeed bearings, from June 2014, which is 2.5 years and about 40 000km.
I took out the grease about 6 months ago. I tend to regrease my chainset internals about once a month (takes 5 mins) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3l2jY6yi-8
And pick off the bearing seals with a Stanley knife blade (no doesn't damage them). Rinse with WD40 or similar till super clean. Lay bike on side and fill race with light oil. Replace seals.
Again, wouldn't recommend this if you ride in crappy conditions - I don't.