SISL2 coming loose

[defride]

Anyone had issues with SISL2's coming loose?

They're installed following the instructions and have done about 300 miles. Last ride out started to get some creaking and thought I'd check the cranks, took a surprisingly large pull to get them back up to 40nm. Creak was gone riding today until about 35 miles where it's started again. Seems they may be coming loose?

Any advice?

Cheers

[nemeseri]

Are you sure that it's not your BB? What kind of BB you have? How old is your bike? Have you ever replaced / serviced the BB? Did you notice that the crank was coming loose or it was only based on that you have to retighten to specs?

[defride]

Are you sure that it's not your BB? What kind of BB you have? How old is your bike? Have you ever replaced / serviced the BB? Did you notice that the BB was coming loose or it was only based on that you have to retighten to specs?

Could be but pretty hopeful it's okay. BB area was cleaned then Loctite inc activator and seemed to go in pretty nicely. New build Evo Nano with supplied FSA BB

The crank bolts were torqued to 40nm when installed and were a ways off 40nm when I checked them yesterday, after tightening back to 40nm the creak went away completely.

[Calnago]

As @Nemeseri is implying, it's probably your Pressfit BB that the creaks are coming from. All the 40Nm tightening is doing is tightening your crank arms to the spindle. I presume they are well greased? Cannondale has a $50 two piece tool that's pretty much required to get the cranks on and off.

[nemeseri]

Are you sure that it's not your BB? What kind of BB you have? How old is your bike? Have you ever replaced / serviced the BB? Did you notice that the BB was coming loose or it was only based on that you have to retighten to specs?

Could be but pretty hopeful it's okay. BB area was cleaned then Loctite inc activator and seemed to go in pretty nicely. New build Evo Nano with supplied FSA BB

The crank bolts were torqued to 40nm when installed and were a ways off 40nm when I checked them yesterday, after tightening back to 40nm the creak went away completely.

If you installed the PF30 BB properly and it's basically new, it's pretty weird that you get the creaking. I will keep an eye on the thread and I hope you will find a solution!

[defride]

As @Nemeseri is implying, it's probably your Pressfit BB that the creaks are coming from. All the 40Nm tightening is doing is tightening your crank arms to the spindle. I presume they are well greased? Cannondale has a $50 two piece tool that's pretty much required to get the cranks on and off.

Got all the tools including the pretty rubbish tool for installing the spider which I'd need to get a crows foot adaptor so I could use a torque wrench. Instead tightened the spider as much as poss with a long adjustable wrench and Loctite. If it said grease the spindle I'll have done so, can easily check though.

[Calnago]

Ouch! Using a crows foot and huge wrench on that thing would be very awkward. Do you have a bench vise. That's the best way... you clamp the tool in the bench vise, then just spin the thing on.

But again, what about the BB itself? That's the most likely cause of the creaking.

Edit: Sorry, I hadn't read your post about thinking the BB was ok and that you had used Loctite (609 retaining compound?) and activator and thought the BB was ok. Aside from that, I did one where the actual lockring on the spindle was loose and caused a clicking every rotation. The only other things would be to remove and clean the chainring bolts etc., little bit of Loctite 222 (purple) on the threads, and maybe a light touch of grease on the bolt and chainring faces where those two meet (not the threads). Just gotta go through everything at this point I suppose. I presume you've checked the pedals etc.

[WannabeWeenie]

Got all the tools including the pretty rubbish tool for installing the spider which I'd need to get a crows foot adaptor so I could use a torque wrench. Instead tightened the spider as much as poss with a long adjustable wrench and Loctite.

A trick I use to keep that tool from slipping on the lockring is to compress the whole assembly (DS arm/spider/lockring/lockring tool/torque wrench) in the padded jaws of a vise. I place a thrust bearing between the head of the torque wrench and the jaw of the vise to minimize friction that will affect actual torque seen by the lockring. I wish I had had the presence of mind to take a picture when I was putting mine together.

EDIT: Calnago beat me to the vise thing.

[defride]

Ouch! Using a crows foot and huge wrench on that thing would be very awkward. Do you have a bench vise. That's the best way... you clamp the tool in the bench vise, then just spin the thing on.

But again, what about the BB itself? That's the most likely cause of the creaking.

Edit: Sorry, I hadn't read your post about thinking the BB was ok and that you had used Loctite (609 retaining compound?) and activator and thought the BB was ok. Aside from that, I did one where the actual lockring on the spindle was loose and caused a clicking every rotation. The only other things would be to remove and clean the chainring bolts etc., little bit of Loctite 222 (purple) on the threads, and maybe a light touch of grease on the bolt and chainring faces where those two meet (not the threads). Just gotta go through everything at this point I suppose. I presume you've checked the pedals etc.

Yes, 609. Guess it's a case of pulling the c/set apart and starting again, see if that helps. In any case the odd thing is why had the torque on the crank arms dropped noticeably in such a short space of time?

It's a Spidering so no bolts, did seem to be able to get it reasonably tight, there was a screech of protest from the bolt nipping up despite the grease, would have thought this would hold well enough with the Loctite 242

Could be the BB, hoping not!

A trick I use to keep that tool from slipping on the lockring is to compress the whole assembly (DS arm/spider/lockring/lockring tool/torque wrench) in the padded jaws of a vise. I place a thrust bearing between the head of the torque wrench and the jaw of the vise to minimize friction that will affect actual torque seen by the lockring. I wish I had had the presence of mind to take a picture when I was putting mine together.

EDIT: Calnago beat me to the vise thing.

Just a small vice that I can attach to a workbench however it wasn't adequate and twisted when I tried to put a lot of force through.

[topflightpro]

Ouch! Using a crows foot and huge wrench on that thing would be very awkward. Do you have a bench vise. That's the best way... you clamp the tool in the bench vise, then just spin the thing on.

The first time I did it, I used a monkey wrench to remove spider. It went, OK.

The second time I tried with the monkey wrench, it was a disaster. I even bent some of the teeth on the tool. Since then, I've been using my buddy's bench vise. I also purchased a bolt and washers to lock the tool to the crank arm. It requires adjusting tension on the bolt as the sider lockring loosened/tightened, but this works well for me.