kcnc steel skewer - what am I doing wrong?

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eajohnson
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:09 pm

by eajohnson

I have some KCNC steel skewers that have been sitting in a drawer, I'd given up on them but now would like to see if I can't tackle why I had so little success with them, and maybe actually use them.

The problem is that setting them as tight as I can while only using a pressure that hurts my hand somewhat when tightening (fairly painful but the pain doesn't last long after I'm done), the skewer doesn't hold all that tight because of how much it releases when you go 'past' perpendicular to the axle, which I believe is necessary to prevent the skewer from potentially coming loose. When pointing straight back (rather than past the point of peak clamping to the endpoint of its possible closing movement) it is perfectly secure, but it does not clamp very forcefully once fully tightened until it stops as it loosens up quite considerably, enough that the lever can be turned clockwise (tightened) with very little effort. I have two sets and both do the exact same thing.

The dropouts themselves on the bike in question are carbon, not metal (perhaps the compression characteristics of the dropouts make a difference?). On steel dropouts (other bikes) I find that only Campy and Shimano clamp strongly enough to be reliable but other brands seem to work fine on the carbon dropouts except KCNC. Oh, and the problem happens on numerous different wheels with different hubs (Campy, DT240, Powertap, Zipp, Industry Nine), so I don't think it's just that my wheel axle setups are particularly inelastic in compression hence emphasizing the 'release' effect of closing the lever to its endpoint.

Is there a special technique (maybe some positioning of a part that doesn't make it release it's tension so much once you tighten it to the lever's endpoint), or is it safe to leave it not fully clamped where it is generating higher clamping force? I can also clamp it tight by rotating the lever clockwise but it's impossible to do this and not interfere with fork or chainstay tubes and still end up with the lever pointing in the desired position. I can't help but suspect there is some detail that I'm overlooking, clearly many people love these skewers.

RyanH
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by RyanH

I had the same problem, more so with the steel version than the Ti version. I just tighten them with light pressure and rotate. I think that's about all you can do with them.

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mimason
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by mimason

You need to finish tightening them by turning them clockwise. I usually snug them up and finish with a 1/4 turn approx or more. Use two hands one on the each side so you can tighten both sides of the skewer to finesse it just right. Its not a problem.

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F45
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by F45

KCNC Z6? I'll have to check it out but I don't recall a problem with them.

Marin
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by Marin

Yes, flip the lever and do a 1/4 turn.

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BRM
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by BRM

If this particular skewer is working the way as written here then there is only one place where it belongs and that is your trashbin. Such a skewer is inferior.

You never should turn a skewer when fixed.
The teeth that are clamped to the dropouts wil ruin the dropout surface.

RyanH
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by RyanH

The clamping surface does not rotate as you rotate the handle.

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PSM
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by PSM

This is a common problem with low weight skewers. That's why I don't use them anymore.

I can recommend FFWD skewers. 85 gr hollow steel axel. Works very good. They're cheap too.

http://www.ffwdshop.com/gear/spare-parts/QR-RA1

Use acetone to remove the logos.

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BRM
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by BRM

RyanH wrote:The clamping surface does not rotate as you rotate the handle.


Wel I dont have experience with this skewer but still it belongs inn the trashbin. :wink:

pavel
Posts: 69
Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:03 am

by pavel

BRM wrote:If this particular skewer is working the way as written here then there is only one place where it belongs and that is your trashbin. Such a skewer is inferior.

You never should turn a skewer when fixed.
The teeth that are clamped to the dropouts wil ruin the dropout surface.



Agreed. Get a better skewer. I love lightweight parts but a skewer is not somewhere I am willing to skimp.

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mpulsiv
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by mpulsiv

RyanH wrote:I had the same problem, more so with the steel version than the Ti version. I just tighten them with light pressure and rotate. I think that's about all you can do with them.


KCNC Z6 is a solid skewer. No issues in 4 years. The key is not to tighten hard then attempt to close but tighten with lighter pressure, close then rotate ~ 1/2 inch as RyanH mentioned above.

If something doesn't work, don't force it. Slow down, pause, apply logic, try to reproduce your effort.
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.

:arrow: CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
:arrow: OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder

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