Is this the year to wait or should I buy a new bike

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Gavf
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2016 4:16 pm
Location: United Kingdom

by Gavf

A road bike with disk braks is a CX bike in reality, they are heavy, dangerous, no better at braking in the majority of situations and will never be a thing in the pro peloton after this year imo.

by Weenie


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Calnago
In Memoriam
Posts: 8612
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

@AJS914: Good post above. "With that bike you are capturing a moment in time..."
Very true. Ernesto won't be around forever. After that, it's a GIANT.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

mimason
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:43 pm
Location: Florida

by mimason

Holy head tube Synapse. The geometries between the bikes are extreme. A 54 Synapse is like a 56 F8 in Head Tube and stack. The reach would be 1.3 CM different with the F8 being longer. I won't even get into HT and ST angles differences. The question is are you ready? I mean no disrespect but are you bike fit for the change in bike geo or are you going to retro fit your synapse fit to the C60 or F8?

If you are bike fit and flexible then you should be fine. If you are not and want a bling bike to ride it upright then you are going to deal with a spacer tower. Also, if you are new to cycling then you may change sizes over time. Maybe something else to think about as you didn't indicate otherwise.

CanadianBiker
Posts: 98
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 2:34 pm

by CanadianBiker

Presently my handle bars are 3.5 inches lower then my seat, I am in much better shape then when I started biking 3 years ago and lost about 35lbs. I would not say I am in incredible shape but I am in decent shape.

I took a C60 out for about an hour and I had no issue, now the drop from my seat was quite a bit more then I was use too. I'm 6'0 1/2 but I have long arms and torso and will consider a 52S or 54S, I don't want a spacer tower...

Like I said, the Synapse is a nice endurance bike but I want something more aggressive. I only tested the F8 for 5 minutes so I really can't say how it feels or if I am able to ride it.

I rode about 4000km last year and I've done about 2000 on Zwift this winter. I bike quite a bit, flexibility is probably where I have the most opportunity to improve.

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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

What is your saddle height if you mind me asking? I run a drop of between 8-9cm, so close to yours. My saddle height is 804mm (to a straight edge across the top of a Romin Pro saddle). And on my 61 Traditional C59 equivalent to a 57s if they made one) I have a -8 degree, 130mm stem and a 3mm spacer between the stem and the tall (15mm) topcap for the headset. You say you don't want a spacer tower. A 52s C60 should be out of the question then.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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WMW
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 2:59 pm
Location: Ruidoso, NM

by WMW

nycebo wrote:Coming down out of the hills at speed is so much more confidence inspiring. I'll just ask this: Do cars have disk? Motorcycles? Mountain bikes? Issue resolved.


I've never experienced a situation where better than Chorus brakes would have made me more confident. I'm much more limited by tire traction and the flip-over limit than braking ability.

Assuming that discs are optimal for road bikes just because they are used on cars and motorcycles is just silly. Bicycles are at the bleeding edge of optimized design. How many carbon fiber parts do you typically find on cars and motorcycles?
formerly rruff...

Marin
Posts: 4035
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

AJS914 wrote:It's hard to deny the watts you save with a Madone 9, fast wheels and eTap.


It might be hard, but it's definitely possible. Here's my attempt:

* An aero frame is one of the last things to consider when going for more speed, since rider position, clothing and helmet type have a lot more effect than anything on the bike. Then come front wheel and handlebars (!), then the frame.

* A skinny steel frame with a narrow head tube will have lower drag than a non-aero carbon frame, the advantage of a carbon aero frame is usually compared to the latter, and never the former.

* Boras will be _very_ fast at low yaw angles, which a moderately fast rider will mostly encounter.

* eTap will cost you Watts! It haz batteries!

rms13
Posts: 114
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:05 pm

by rms13

I just picked up a bike with hydraulic discs and its night and day difference over rim brakes I've had. My other bike has Ultegra brakes, carbon wheels and I'm around 180lb and hit up to 40mph on mountain decents where I live so your mileage may vary but for me it's worth the weigh penalty

mimason
Posts: 654
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:43 pm
Location: Florida

by mimason

^ Hopefully you don't have a piston leak oil and render your brake useless. At this time there are too many failures for me to even think about going to disc. Maybe one day though, just not anytime soon.

AJS914
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

Where are you seeing all these failures?

mimason
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:43 pm
Location: Florida

by mimason

You can do a search and read the internet posts but I have a personal friend that was out in the Rockies that had a failure first hand with a hydraulic system. I have other information but would not be able to discuss(sorry I know this is lame). As with any risky sport we should ensure our equipment is safe before we proceed. Before bombing any descent rides I would certainly want to check out whatever braking system I was using be it cable mech or disc. I have no data to support numbers of failures but there are attorney ads soliciting claims which is enough to have attracted attention. Current braking is good enough for me. YMMV.

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nycebo
Posts: 229
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 8:04 pm
Location: New York, NY

by nycebo

WMW wrote:I've never experienced a situation where better than Chorus brakes would have made me more confident. I'm much more limited by tire traction and the flip-over limit than braking ability.

Assuming that discs are optimal for road bikes just because they are used on cars and motorcycles is just silly. Bicycles are at the bleeding edge of optimized design. How many carbon fiber parts do you typically find on cars and motorcycles?


LOL. Your words just proved my point. "Flip-over limit" is not the result of braking hard...it's the result of gripping too hard and imprecisely. Disks allow for better modulation. Thus, one can "squeeze" more assuredly with LESS risk of flip-over. Obviously, if one just slams the hell out of the front brake lever on any brake system, you're going over the bars. Please, do yourself a favor....ride disk breaks down a very fast mountain...then comment. Don't make the mistake of falling into the good enough category. The beauty of cycling equipment is always reaching for the edge.

As for car and motorcycles, I'll just assume that you either don't race or have not bothered to investigate parts on Porsches, Ferraris, Ducatis, MVs, etc. CF and magnesium all the way, brother.

rms13
Posts: 114
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:05 pm

by rms13

mimason wrote:You can do a search and read the internet posts but I have a personal friend that was out in the Rockies that had a failure first hand with a hydraulic system. I have other information but would not be able to discuss(sorry I know this is lame). As with any risky sport we should ensure our equipment is safe before we proceed. Before bombing any descent rides I would certainly want to check out whatever braking system I was using be it cable mech or disc. I have no data to support numbers of failures but there are attorney ads soliciting claims which is enough to have attracted attention. Current braking is good enough for me. YMMV.


One failure doesn't make an epidemic. I know a lot of people riding hydraulics on road, cx and mountain bikes and haven't heard of any failures other than occasional hose being cut by rock on mountain bike rides. I'm not saying it's never happened but like carbon bike assplosions, carbon wheel brake surfaces failing, chains breaking and even BB30 bottom brackets creaking it's easy to exaggerate the actual facts

AJS914
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

CanadianBiker wrote:Presently my handle bars are 3.5 inches lower then my seat, I am in much better shape then when I started biking 3 years ago and lost about 35lbs. I would not say I am in incredible shape but I am in decent shape.

I took a C60 out for about an hour and I had no issue, now the drop from my seat was quite a bit more then I was use too. I'm 6'0 1/2 but I have long arms and torso and will consider a 52S or 54S, I don't want a spacer tower...



I ride a 52S which is similar to a 56cm frame.

I'm 6 foot tall and have a 2.5" (6.5cm) drop (top of saddle to top of bars). I also have 1.5cm of spacers and the tall Colnago top cap. I could free up another cm by removing the tall top cap. Depending on your leg length and set back needs a 52S might work for you. If your legs are longer than mine a 54S with a short top cap might work. This is the point where I think you put all the numbers in a stack/reach geometry calculator.

What size C60 did you ride? Measuring that bike should tell you what size to get.

by Weenie


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CanadianBiker
Posts: 98
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 2:34 pm

by CanadianBiker

I did the best I could measuring looks like my seat is 72.5cm from the middle of my bb (where the crank is connected). I can measure 16.5cm of seat post from my frame to bottom of my seat.

From what I can read on the Geometry of the 2013 Synapse Carbon 3 the Head Tube is 18cm on top of that I have a 2.5 cm of spacers, my stem is also a 100. Like I said this frame was setup for me when I was 35lbs heavier and not in as good of a shape.

From what I understand the top tube is 56cm.
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