Clean Colnago C60 Di2 install

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

Moderator: robbosmans

User avatar
showdown
Posts: 230
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2010 4:48 pm

by showdown

Hey all, been away for a while so I didn't have a chance to respond.

Saddle set-back: I've been professionally fitted and riding like that for the past decade. I'm 145# and haven't had any issues wth equipment yet. :D

Color: It's the TXOR colorway. I originally has a C59 in the limited THOR color that was stolen so this was the replacement. Full pic of the colorway here: http://cycling-passion.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Colnago-C60-racing-thor.jpg

Cables: Yes there's only one cable running from the shifter to the A junction in the downtube. What you're seeing is a standard Shimano brake cable and a Di2 wire with heatshrink tubing covering them...

I've since plugged the erroneous holes with Colnago plugs and it looks nice and clean.

With the intro of the new bar-end A junction a clean setup is much easier though it will still require a bit of jujitsu. I'm not sure if I'll use that or not- I need to get a better look at it and see if it's worth it.

johnzwong
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2016 11:04 am

by johnzwong

hi - am searching for tips on the new bar-end A junction box and came across this thread so apologies for resurrecting an old one.

Love the installation, very clean!

Am wondering whether the 3T ergonova's have any internal obstructions that would allow e-tube cable routing from the bar end to the internal cable routing port?

Has anyone tried it with the new junction box? I have a set of the older ergonova's without internal cable routing but would love to upgrade to the newer version and fit the bar-end Di2 junction box.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



User avatar
showdown
Posts: 230
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2010 4:48 pm

by showdown

The Ergonova's have two entry/exit ports: one right by the shifter-clamp area and one by where the bartape would stop. From what I remember there aren't any obstructions and there isn't a "channel" in which to run the cables, rather it's just open inside the bars so running the car-end junction box shouldn't be an issue at all.

FWIW, it's not hard to get the cables and wires into and out of the bar but it's not easy by a long shot. I first ran an old length of shifter cable through the bars and then taped the E-Tube wire to it and pulled it through that way.

I'll probably rewire my bike right before summer racing season when I overhaul it.

iamoutside
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:22 pm

by iamoutside

showdown wrote:
Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:15 pm
Hey all, been away for a while so I didn't have a chance to respond.

Saddle set-back: I've been professionally fitted and riding like that for the past decade. I'm 145# and haven't had any issues wth equipment yet. :D

Color: It's the TXOR colorway. I originally has a C59 in the limited THOR color that was stolen so this was the replacement. Full pic of the colorway here: http://cycling-passion.com/wp-content/u ... g-thor.jpg

Cables: Yes there's only one cable running from the shifter to the A junction in the downtube. What you're seeing is a standard Shimano brake cable and a Di2 wire with heatshrink tubing covering them...

I've since plugged the erroneous holes with Colnago plugs and it looks nice and clean.

With the intro of the new bar-end A junction a clean setup is much easier though it will still require a bit of jujitsu. I'm not sure if I'll use that or not- I need to get a better look at it and see if it's worth it.
Hi Showdown. I hope you'll get this reply as I noticed this thread goes back a number of years. I just got a C60 frameset as well and just thought of the exact same routing strategy that you used (Di2 wire and rear brake cable through toptube together with Di2 wire turning back to the headtub and then down through the downtube). I realized as I was looking at my frame that the toptube brake cable access point is wide at first glance but then narrows into the diameter of a single cable which is not large enough to fit both the rear brake cable and Di2 wire :cry: . I googled this and came across your thread here and read that you encountered the same problem and to solve it you drilled a 4mm hole to enlarge this opening so both the cable for the brake and Di2 wire can fit. I can no longer view the pictures you posted in your first post so I am not sure if you had photos of the drilling process. I've attached a photo of my toptube cable access point in question.

My question is, what tools did you use to do the drilling? Does it only require a small amount of drilling or is that section that is the diamter of a cable full of thick material and requires a lot of drilling or is it just a thin layer?

I hope you get this message. Thank you.
Attachments
IMG_20200325_1701043.jpg

Post Reply