PF30 install
Moderator: robbosmans
I've had a good hunt through the creaking BB threads and there seems a reasonable consensus that Loctite 609 can help with creaking issues and might even be worth using preventively. Some other products are mentioned but not always widely available.
All my previous BB experience is with threaded so despite having the tools I considered using the local dealer. A call did not inspire confidence, 'how do you prep the BB?' 'just press it in'... maybe I didn't ask the right questions. Seems sensible to go it alone.
Couple of queries I've not seen addressed in the posts I've read.
The BB shell has some carbon dust in it, I'll use a clean rag then most seem to be using alcohol to clean, that's been hard to source. I do have Acetone, any issue using this? (other than it's nasty stuff)
I've carbon fibre assembly paste for alu/carbon products included in the accessory pack, it specifically mentions using it for alu/carbon seatposts and stems but not BB despite that also being an alloy carbon interface. With all the talk of Loctite and the like I've seen no mention of carbon pastes in any search on the subject, why is that given it's designed to help stop movement between carbon and alu?
Great to hear any of your advice, thanks
All my previous BB experience is with threaded so despite having the tools I considered using the local dealer. A call did not inspire confidence, 'how do you prep the BB?' 'just press it in'... maybe I didn't ask the right questions. Seems sensible to go it alone.
Couple of queries I've not seen addressed in the posts I've read.
The BB shell has some carbon dust in it, I'll use a clean rag then most seem to be using alcohol to clean, that's been hard to source. I do have Acetone, any issue using this? (other than it's nasty stuff)
I've carbon fibre assembly paste for alu/carbon products included in the accessory pack, it specifically mentions using it for alu/carbon seatposts and stems but not BB despite that also being an alloy carbon interface. With all the talk of Loctite and the like I've seen no mention of carbon pastes in any search on the subject, why is that given it's designed to help stop movement between carbon and alu?
Great to hear any of your advice, thanks
Where on the planet is simple isopropyl alcohol hard to come by? It's available in every supermarket, hardware store and pharmacy in North America.
I have no experience with the carbon assembly paste for BB, but I would avoid that in this application.
I have no experience with the carbon assembly paste for BB, but I would avoid that in this application.
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Wow. Crazy world. I'd have no problem using Naptha (lighter fluid). Naptha is used on vintage nitrocellulose guitar finishes. Evaporates cleanly.
For the purpose you're looking to do, simple soapy water, with a fresh-water rinse. Allow to dry. That will get things as clean as alcohol would.
For the purpose you're looking to do, simple soapy water, with a fresh-water rinse. Allow to dry. That will get things as clean as alcohol would.
After cleaning and prior to using the loctite 609, you should apply loctite primer activator 7649, or 7471. This improves the adhesion, and speeds up the set time of the 609. In particular, with passive materials such as CF, it greatly improves the performance of the 609.
How you prepare the shell and cups before pressing depends on the materials of each, and to a lesser extent, the manufactures' recommendations. Your post suggests a carbon frame with aluminum bottom bracket. What material are the cups? Plastic? Aluminium?
defride wrote:UK, hardware stores aren't allowed any more, so they say and even the pharmacies don't stock it, none around here anyway.
isopropyl alcohol
Amazon UK
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_nos ... yl+alcohol
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BRM wrote:defride wrote:UK, hardware stores aren't allowed any more, so they say and even the pharmacies don't stock it, none around here anyway.
isopropyl alcohol
Amazon UK
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_nos ... yl+alcohol
eBay UK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... l&_sacat=0
Yes, know I can get it online but had hoped I'd be able to pop out and get some locally
modman wrote:How you prepare the shell and cups before pressing depends on the materials of each, and to a lesser extent, the manufactures' recommendations. Your post suggests a carbon frame with aluminum bottom bracket. What material are the cups? Plastic? Aluminium?
Yes, carbon shell and alu cups, Cannondale. There doesn't seem to be consistent advice from Cannondale
Cheers for the other tips thus far
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defride, can you not buy alcohol swabs at the pharmacy for hypodermic injections? You don't have to have a bottle of the stuff. The swabs will work fine to clean your BB shell. Cleanup of the cured 609 that has gotten onto the outside of the shell (I am a pig) does require a liquid solvent however. If you can't buy isopropyl alcohol in a bottle, try fingernail polish remover. It is mostly either acetone or ethyl acetate, both of which would work great. The reason you don't want to use it to prep the inside of the BB shell, is that it sometimes contains oils for care of the cuticles. You don't want that residue to interfere with the Loctite bond.
+1 on the primer/activator. It will make all the difference between a so-so bond and an excellent bond.
As for carbon assembly paste, that is an absolute no-no in this application. That is something that will remain liquid. You don't want that between the BB shell and the BB plastic cups. You want a fully cured, solid, adhesive bond.
Good luck. It really isn't all that hard.
+1 on the primer/activator. It will make all the difference between a so-so bond and an excellent bond.
As for carbon assembly paste, that is an absolute no-no in this application. That is something that will remain liquid. You don't want that between the BB shell and the BB plastic cups. You want a fully cured, solid, adhesive bond.
Good luck. It really isn't all that hard.
Robert
BRM wrote:Yes, carbon shell and alu cups, Cannondale.
Cannondale has condoned the use of loctite in its carbon shells. See its tech doc here:http://www.cannondale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Dorel/Cannondale/Common/Support/Accessories/127894_PressFit_30_Bonding_Instructions_web.ashx.
IMHO, it is hit or miss regarding individual tolerance and whether you'll get creaking. Aluminum cups are so easy to get in and out that I will press them in dry and reinstall with loctite if they creak down the road. The reason why I install dry first is because many MFGs void the warranties if you apply it during installation (e.g., CK).
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I found using a Kogel BB solved my issue. The cups go insanely far into the frame, but never creak. They have you install it with grease and it is good to go. Have one in carbon and one in a ti frame. Large contact area seems to help with movement, go figure. Dear SRAM, did you really think a plastic BB cup was a good idea with metal bearings?
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