2015 Campagnolo Record FD help please
Moderator: robbosmans
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:20 pm
Hey everyone.
I don't post too often, but I am having a bit of an issue and need some assistance please.
I just upgraded my Bianchi Sempre Pro to a full 2015 Campagnolo Record Gruppo from 2014 Athena. Now, I have four bikes total and they are all pre 2015 Campagnolo, (one Chorus and two Athena). I have always set up my bikes on my own and never have had an issue. I always use the Campagnolo technical manuals and any videos plus I work part time at a bike shop turning wrenches so I am not a complete novice.
Here is the problem, and maybe it isn't a problem as it is just the way it is.
We all know not to cross chain, that is a given, but the manual states that when you set up the front derailleur you start in the big sprocket and small chain ring and then you shift using three clicks to the big ring. Well, in the biggest sprocket it grinds like crazy going into the big ring. I have adjusted the cable tension, backed out the upper limit screw to allow for over shifting a little and it will still occasionally grind.
In every other combination is shifts without an issue. Is it just because of the big/big combo or is it not adjusted properly?
Any thoughts?
Cheers.
Pietro
I don't post too often, but I am having a bit of an issue and need some assistance please.
I just upgraded my Bianchi Sempre Pro to a full 2015 Campagnolo Record Gruppo from 2014 Athena. Now, I have four bikes total and they are all pre 2015 Campagnolo, (one Chorus and two Athena). I have always set up my bikes on my own and never have had an issue. I always use the Campagnolo technical manuals and any videos plus I work part time at a bike shop turning wrenches so I am not a complete novice.
Here is the problem, and maybe it isn't a problem as it is just the way it is.
We all know not to cross chain, that is a given, but the manual states that when you set up the front derailleur you start in the big sprocket and small chain ring and then you shift using three clicks to the big ring. Well, in the biggest sprocket it grinds like crazy going into the big ring. I have adjusted the cable tension, backed out the upper limit screw to allow for over shifting a little and it will still occasionally grind.
In every other combination is shifts without an issue. Is it just because of the big/big combo or is it not adjusted properly?
Any thoughts?
Cheers.
Pietro
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It does not sound like it is set up correctly. The 2015 Front Derailleur works very well, but it is not the same setup as in prior years. Read the Technical Manual for the front derailleur, and pay particular attention to pages 10-11. It may take some time to really understand the diagrams fully, but if you do, then you will have a very good understanding of at least what should be happening. If you are on your biggest sprocket at the back, and your small ring up front, with the derailleur in it's lowest position, then 3 clicks, even slowly, should get you to the big ring pretty effortlessly with no fuss. Once in the big ring, you should be able to run through ALL of the sprockets with no rub. No trim.
Things to check:
1) Chain length (not too short).
2) Chainstay length (minimum 405mm).
3) Front derailleur in perfect alignment with rings.
4) Re read the Technical Manual. Read it again. Till you really understand how it should be functioning in any gear combination. I think far too many mechanics just get new component and assume it works and sets up just the same as it's always been. It's not.
And no, your problem is not "just the way it is". I spent a long time just getting familiar with exactly how it works the first time through. Mostly because I wanted to be able to set it up perfectly without the use of that inline adjuster that you're supposed to install. But it takes knowing where you want it to be, as well as a fourth hand tool to be able to fine tune the tension as you tighten things up. I'm assuming you have the inline adjuster installed. So it should make things pretty easy if everything is set up, within spec (derailleur hanger, chainline, etc), and fine tuned correctly.
Things to check:
1) Chain length (not too short).
2) Chainstay length (minimum 405mm).
3) Front derailleur in perfect alignment with rings.
4) Re read the Technical Manual. Read it again. Till you really understand how it should be functioning in any gear combination. I think far too many mechanics just get new component and assume it works and sets up just the same as it's always been. It's not.
And no, your problem is not "just the way it is". I spent a long time just getting familiar with exactly how it works the first time through. Mostly because I wanted to be able to set it up perfectly without the use of that inline adjuster that you're supposed to install. But it takes knowing where you want it to be, as well as a fourth hand tool to be able to fine tune the tension as you tighten things up. I'm assuming you have the inline adjuster installed. So it should make things pretty easy if everything is set up, within spec (derailleur hanger, chainline, etc), and fine tuned correctly.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
What cassette are you using 11-29? If so maybe you're adjusted properly but stretching the RD too much?
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:20 pm
so, I am installed over the knob in the FD.
I am running 12-25
chain is cut to 53 links providing me with 18mm between the top of the chain and the bottom of the derailleur as per the campagnolo technical manual.
so, my question calnago, how tight should the cable be when it enters the FD?
I am running 12-25
chain is cut to 53 links providing me with 18mm between the top of the chain and the bottom of the derailleur as per the campagnolo technical manual.
so, my question calnago, how tight should the cable be when it enters the FD?
I'm not going to even attempt to explain getting the right cable tension over the Internet, especially without using the inline cable adjuster. The answer to your question as to how tight it should be is "just right". Your chain is a bit on the short side for sure, which was essentially what @rmerka was getting at as well. But you didn't answer the question as to whether you've got the inline adjuster installed. Do you? And is everything all 2015 Campagnolo stuff?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:20 pm
Yes, the inline is installed, and it is all 2015.
The chainstay is 16" so within the 405mm for sure.
When I read the manual, in English and in Italian it says to pull the cable slightly, which I did. It is taught for sure. I used the inline to get it within the tolerances suggested.
I used the mathematical formula to come up with that chain length. When I had it at 54 links the distance was less than 9mm between the top of the chain and bottom of the derailleur which I thought was worse. There was a lot of slack. Now there is slack, but it isn't floppy, if that makes sense.
Maybe I just need to tighten up the cable a bit more. I am only at two hash marks on the inline and can go a bit more.
The chainstay is 16" so within the 405mm for sure.
When I read the manual, in English and in Italian it says to pull the cable slightly, which I did. It is taught for sure. I used the inline to get it within the tolerances suggested.
I used the mathematical formula to come up with that chain length. When I had it at 54 links the distance was less than 9mm between the top of the chain and bottom of the derailleur which I thought was worse. There was a lot of slack. Now there is slack, but it isn't floppy, if that makes sense.
Maybe I just need to tighten up the cable a bit more. I am only at two hash marks on the inline and can go a bit more.
That gap for measuring the chain length is spec'd at 10-15mm. Prior to 2015 it was 8-15mm. I like to err on the longer rather than the shorter side but it depends on ultimate use. So, I would have gone for the 9mm gap. But it still shouldn't be "slack" at that point. Regardless, I don't think that's your issue. I just don't think you have it set up very well. You need to re-read the manual to find out where the derailleur needs to be in each position relative to the chain, then use the inline adjuster to get it there. Right now it sounds like you're just turning the thing but not really sure what you're trying to accomplish except to get it shifting right. Yes... don't be afraid to loosen off the cable and retighten. Play with it to understand exactly what it's doing. I sacrificed a front derailleur cable by tightening and loosening it in a zillion little micropositions just to experiment and learn how it reacts to a tension that's too loose, and a tension that's too tight, but that was just so I could set it up without the inline adjuster. With the inline adjuster installed, it becomes pretty easy (that's why they say to use it). Also, make sure the outer limit screw is backed out enough, especially while your making the adjustments. You can turn it back in to where it should be to do it's job once you get the cable tension right.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:20 pm
Got it. The front derailleur was just a little off. Took it off and put it back on using the alignment tool and it is shifting great. Thanks for all your help. I also did back out the outer limit screw. Once I got it to shift I tightened it till it just bottomed out and then backed it out 1/8th turn.
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Hi all
I have set up countless bikes with 10 speed Record but have been asked by a mate to cable his bike for 2015 11 Speed.
In the past I have always preferred to do without in-line cable adjusters for the front mech, simply because of the more elegant solution, but it looks like 2015 really would prefer an adjuster.
Any thoughts. Can I do without and set the tension right myself or is there really a need?
Thanks
I have set up countless bikes with 10 speed Record but have been asked by a mate to cable his bike for 2015 11 Speed.
In the past I have always preferred to do without in-line cable adjusters for the front mech, simply because of the more elegant solution, but it looks like 2015 really would prefer an adjuster.
Any thoughts. Can I do without and set the tension right myself or is there really a need?
Thanks
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- Shop Owner / Manufacturer
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It's just easier to set the cable tension "just so" and to compensateimmedaitely post-build for cable outer compaction and under-tape outer "squirm" if you have a tensioner - the system is designed to cope with having the Campag one fitted ... you can get away without one with practice in tensioning the front cable but it is making life hard for yourself if you aren't used to doing it.
A Tech-Reps work is never done ...
Head Tech, Campagnolo main UK ASC
Pls contact via velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com, not PM, for a quicker answer. Thanks!
Head Tech, Campagnolo main UK ASC
Pls contact via velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com, not PM, for a quicker answer. Thanks!
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