Removing the graphics on Rotor 3D+ Cranks - help!
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi there,
Anyone out there have experience in removing the white graphics on the Rotor 3D+ cranks & rings?
I'm not sure if simply "acetone" would work (though haven't tried it yet) as it seems its more than just "paint" on the surface.
Any advise would be very much appreciated, before I make an arse of it
Cheers
Anyone out there have experience in removing the white graphics on the Rotor 3D+ cranks & rings?
I'm not sure if simply "acetone" would work (though haven't tried it yet) as it seems its more than just "paint" on the surface.
Any advise would be very much appreciated, before I make an arse of it
Cheers
They look to be completely anodized, so acetone will not affect it. You'd have to blast them with media and get them re-anodized.
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RyanH wrote:They look to be completely anodized, so acetone will not affect it. You'd have to blast them with media and get them re-anodized.
Cheers Ryan, have you done it before?
Sounds like a pain & expensive Maybe I'll just get a black marker & ..............
If you use a marer, don't use a Sharpie. They tend to go on "purple", even with a black marker.
Use U-mark (if you have them available) http://www.umarkers.com/Products/ink-markers/m15.htm
Or, if you have a Sanford lying around, all the better. If it's old, it might not even be "non-toxic" (better yet).
My preference is to cover the areas with black 3M tape. Their reflective stuff is impressive. Two years, still looks good. You can see closer pics (and the "before" pic) here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137612
I'm also a fan of spray-paint. The stuff used to do a BBQ grille is much better for these tasks than anything else I've found. I like to heat the item in an oven before spraying. Maybe to 150-200*F. I use this method for stems. The paint holds up to strapping on accessories, and getting sweat all over them. For carbon fiber parts, I shoot without heating. They don't hold up as well over time, but it's a simple matter to reshoot.
Other products that do a great job:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1117.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1145.aspx
Those gunsmiths have really gotten things sorted, when it comes to finishing aluminum at home.
Use U-mark (if you have them available) http://www.umarkers.com/Products/ink-markers/m15.htm
Or, if you have a Sanford lying around, all the better. If it's old, it might not even be "non-toxic" (better yet).
My preference is to cover the areas with black 3M tape. Their reflective stuff is impressive. Two years, still looks good. You can see closer pics (and the "before" pic) here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137612
I'm also a fan of spray-paint. The stuff used to do a BBQ grille is much better for these tasks than anything else I've found. I like to heat the item in an oven before spraying. Maybe to 150-200*F. I use this method for stems. The paint holds up to strapping on accessories, and getting sweat all over them. For carbon fiber parts, I shoot without heating. They don't hold up as well over time, but it's a simple matter to reshoot.
Other products that do a great job:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1117.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1145.aspx
Those gunsmiths have really gotten things sorted, when it comes to finishing aluminum at home.
Thank you all for the advise!
I think I'll either live with it or sell it & find something else
Cheers
I think I'll either live with it or sell it & find something else
Cheers
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You can try using oven cleaner ie ezoff to remove the anodizing. I did this with a black anodized stem that I had painted to match my frame. Very easy.
Obviously some harsh chemistry going on to remove anodizing. Use gloves and a mask of course.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Obviously some harsh chemistry going on to remove anodizing. Use gloves and a mask of course.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@BikeAnon... what is the part or item # of the tape you used? This sounds like a good idea to cover my Rotor cranks, but don't want to waste money buying different versions. Thanks!
"Deserve's got nothing to do with it." William Munny
boysa, It's 3M Scotchlight Reflective Tape. I will try to find the series number.
https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+refl ... e&tbm=isch
I got a 2" x 10' roll on eBay at a decent price. I needed something wide enough to cover the huge "SPECIALIZED" white logos on the downtube.
Full rolls of this stuff can be pretty expensive.
EDIT: Found info from a previous post:
"3M 680 C" tape. Black by day, reflects bright-white in artificial light. Automotive-exterior quality. Claims to be removable with no residue for up to seven years.
I can verify that I've been able to remove it two years later with no heat needed, and no residue.
https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+refl ... e&tbm=isch
I got a 2" x 10' roll on eBay at a decent price. I needed something wide enough to cover the huge "SPECIALIZED" white logos on the downtube.
Full rolls of this stuff can be pretty expensive.
EDIT: Found info from a previous post:
"3M 680 C" tape. Black by day, reflects bright-white in artificial light. Automotive-exterior quality. Claims to be removable with no residue for up to seven years.
I can verify that I've been able to remove it two years later with no heat needed, and no residue.
@BikeAnon... Thanks! 680 was the number I saw, but it was more expensive than I expected. I guess it is a one-time job, and therefore not bad in the grand scheme of things. Much appreciated.
"Deserve's got nothing to do with it." William Munny
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- wheelsONfire
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Graphics are laser etched so you can't rub them off. Paint, marker or tape is the only way.
Bikes:
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
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Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.