Removing the graphics on Rotor 3D+ Cranks - help!

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Look565w
Posts: 225
Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:25 am
Location: West of Scotland

by Look565w

Hi there,

Anyone out there have experience in removing the white graphics on the Rotor 3D+ cranks & rings?

I'm not sure if simply "acetone" would work (though haven't tried it yet) as it seems its more than just "paint" on the surface.

Any advise would be very much appreciated, before I make an arse of it :-(

Cheers

RyanH
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by RyanH

They look to be completely anodized, so acetone will not affect it. You'd have to blast them with media and get them re-anodized.

by Weenie


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Look565w
Posts: 225
Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:25 am
Location: West of Scotland

by Look565w

RyanH wrote:They look to be completely anodized, so acetone will not affect it. You'd have to blast them with media and get them re-anodized.


Cheers Ryan, have you done it before?

Sounds like a pain & expensive :-( Maybe I'll just get a black marker & ..............

CXTony
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:34 pm

by CXTony

Unfortunately Rotor blasts the logos into the cranks, so you would have to re-blast and re-ano to get rid of them. This has been discussed a few times. Cheap solution is a marker :/

BikeAnon
Posts: 399
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:36 pm
Location: NY USA

by BikeAnon

If you use a marer, don't use a Sharpie. They tend to go on "purple", even with a black marker.

Use U-mark (if you have them available) http://www.umarkers.com/Products/ink-markers/m15.htm

Or, if you have a Sanford lying around, all the better. If it's old, it might not even be "non-toxic" (better yet).

Image

My preference is to cover the areas with black 3M tape. Their reflective stuff is impressive. Two years, still looks good. You can see closer pics (and the "before" pic) here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137612


Image

I'm also a fan of spray-paint. The stuff used to do a BBQ grille is much better for these tasks than anything else I've found. I like to heat the item in an oven before spraying. Maybe to 150-200*F. I use this method for stems. The paint holds up to strapping on accessories, and getting sweat all over them. For carbon fiber parts, I shoot without heating. They don't hold up as well over time, but it's a simple matter to reshoot.


Other products that do a great job:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1117.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1145.aspx

Those gunsmiths have really gotten things sorted, when it comes to finishing aluminum at home.
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3m.jpg

Look565w
Posts: 225
Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:25 am
Location: West of Scotland

by Look565w

Thank you all for the advise!

I think I'll either live with it or sell it & find something else :-)

Cheers

petepeterson
Posts: 1402
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Location: 604

by petepeterson

You can try using oven cleaner ie ezoff to remove the anodizing. I did this with a black anodized stem that I had painted to match my frame. Very easy.

Obviously some harsh chemistry going on to remove anodizing. Use gloves and a mask of course.


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sharkman
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Location: the Netherlands

by sharkman

Use plasti dip and renew it if there is too much damage

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boysa
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by boysa

@BikeAnon... what is the part or item # of the tape you used? This sounds like a good idea to cover my Rotor cranks, but don't want to waste money buying different versions. Thanks!
"Deserve's got nothing to do with it." William Munny

BikeAnon
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Location: NY USA

by BikeAnon

boysa, It's 3M Scotchlight Reflective Tape. I will try to find the series number.

https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+refl ... e&tbm=isch

I got a 2" x 10' roll on eBay at a decent price. I needed something wide enough to cover the huge "SPECIALIZED" white logos on the downtube.

Full rolls of this stuff can be pretty expensive.


EDIT: Found info from a previous post:
"3M 680 C" tape. Black by day, reflects bright-white in artificial light. Automotive-exterior quality. Claims to be removable with no residue for up to seven years.

I can verify that I've been able to remove it two years later with no heat needed, and no residue.

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LeviR
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by LeviR

I like the black tape technique. It is temporary and you will not notice it from a distance.

Perhaps you can also do automotive wrap. Wrap the whole bike!

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boysa
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by boysa

@BikeAnon... Thanks! 680 was the number I saw, but it was more expensive than I expected. I guess it is a one-time job, and therefore not bad in the grand scheme of things. Much appreciated.
"Deserve's got nothing to do with it." William Munny

by Weenie


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wheelsONfire
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by wheelsONfire

Graphics are laser etched so you can't rub them off. Paint, marker or tape is the only way.
Bikes:

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)


Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

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