2015 Super Record shifting/RD issues

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Flapmeat
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:52 pm

by Flapmeat

All cables/housings are new Campy cables that were supplied with the shifters.

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bikerjulio
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by bikerjulio

Campy cableset comes with a length of housing for the RD loop. No need to change.

Judging from your picture, the chain looks to be on the short side. Use the small-small method to size it.

That dongle isn't doing anything there. The intent is that the other end is held at the stop. Not that it's causing a problem.

If you can get your hands on a wheel with a Campy cassette, that might assist in diagnosis.
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Flapmeat
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by Flapmeat

bikerjulio wrote:Campy cableset comes with a length of housing for the RD loop. No need to change.

Judging from your picture, the chain looks to be on the short side. Use the small-small method to size it.

That dongle isn't doing anything there. The intent is that the other end is held at the stop. Not that it's causing a problem.

If you can get your hands on a wheel with a Campy cassette, that might assist in diagnosis.


Chain was sized on 52t/25 cog. The 11-28 is on there for the trainer rides. I usually have the 11-25 on. Chain length was found by using big/big plus 2 links

The dongle was out of place because I was swapping the housing lengths, just forgot to snug it back on there for the picture.

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PSM
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by PSM

All my previous R3's 07 and 08 had too soft rd hanger. When fixing the qr the hanger moved...
Last edited by PSM on Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Flapmeat
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:52 pm

by Flapmeat

The hanger moves when the QR is tightened because the dropouts are squaring up on the wheel and QR. I already replaced the hanger with a WMFG which is known to be stiffer. I have checked alignment as well.

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PSM
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by PSM

Great.

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bikerjulio
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Location: Welland, Ontario

by bikerjulio

Flapmeat wrote:Chain was sized on 52t/25 cog. The 11-28 is on there for the trainer rides. I usually have the 11-25 on. Chain length was found by using big/big plus 2 links


@calnago referenced chain length as a possible issue. Perhaps contributing to your problem, you should have used small-small. And it looks short.
Last edited by bikerjulio on Sat Feb 06, 2016 10:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Flapmeat wrote:Chain was sized on 52t/25 cog. The 11-28 is on there for the trainer rides. I usually have the 11-25 on. Chain length was found by using big/big plus 2 links

The dongle was out of place because I was swapping the housing lengths, just forgot to snug it back on there for the picture.

Ouch! Chain was sized for a 52/25 setup, yet you put on an 11/28 cassette? Let's see the setup on the small/small combo. What your're looking for in that combo is the gap between the chain and the lower jockey pulley cage. It should be around 10mm. Campy specs say between 10-15mm. If the gap is bigger than that, it is a clear indication that the chain is on the short side. But if the gap is around 10mm, you can be assured of being able to use cassettes up to their 29tooth cog with that derailleur (some people have used larger than that depending on their frame/hanger etc, but I like to stick within the known compatibility ranges for the most part).
It's becoming apparent that you've got a few things going on here that aren't ideal.
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elSid
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by elSid

You might try installing a new cable and housings, even though it appears there is nothing wrong with what you have now. Just to eliminate that as a possible cause.

I had a similar issue last year. I replaced the cable and housings b/c I couldn't think of anything else that might be causing lazy shifts. As it turned out, there was a tiny frayed bit of cable that was hanging up near the downtube cable stop.

Good luck.

Flapmeat
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:52 pm

by Flapmeat

Calnago wrote:
Flapmeat wrote:Chain was sized on 52t/25 cog. The 11-28 is on there for the trainer rides. I usually have the 11-25 on. Chain length was found by using big/big plus 2 links

The dongle was out of place because I was swapping the housing lengths, just forgot to snug it back on there for the picture.

Ouch! Chain was sized for a 52/25 setup, yet you put on an 11/28 cassette? Let's see the setup on the small/small combo. What your're looking for in that combo is the gap between the chain and the lower jockey pulley cage. It should be around 10mm. Campy specs say between 10-15mm. If the gap is bigger than that, it is a clear indication that the chain is on the short side. But if the gap is around 10mm, you can be assured of being able to use cassettes up to their 29tooth cog with that derailleur (some people have used larger than that depending on their frame/hanger etc, but I like to stick within the known compatibility ranges for the most part).
It's becoming apparent that you've got a few things going on here that aren't ideal.


Ouch? Please explain what the negative effects of utilizing a 28t cassette with a chain length set for a 25t cassette when I, literally, am never on the big/big combo? Given how these ders work, it would probably actually help the situation in the 36 since the chain would swing the der closer to the BB, and the jockey cage with it.

Regardless of claimed 'Ouch!' the 28t is not the cassette I'm worried about. I'm honestly not even really concerned about using the 11-28 period.

Shameless plug: chain is too short on 36/11 :D

Flapmeat
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:52 pm

by Flapmeat

elSid wrote:You might try installing a new cable and housings, even though it appears there is nothing wrong with what you have now. Just to eliminate that as a possible cause.

I had a similar issue last year. I replaced the cable and housings b/c I couldn't think of anything else that might be causing lazy shifts. As it turned out, there was a tiny frayed bit of cable that was hanging up near the downtube cable stop.

Good luck.


I will absolutely give this a shot along with the different routing.

Flapmeat
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by Flapmeat

Calnago, the threads to the 2 piece Der hanger from the gear side of the bike, are they clockwise to loosen or counter clockwise to loosen? I need to break it free and adjust the tension for my piece of mind.

em3
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by em3

...ur hanger threads are right hand threaded (righty-tighty/lefty loosey).

I agree that your chain may be a bit short. The cable loop to your read der looks sufficiently long (PS: the supplied length in Campy cable sets must always be cut, if needed, given that cable guides are not equidistant from dropout on all frames). Did u check read der hanger with proper tool, and check both lateral and vertical planes (eyeballing alignment will not cut it)? What handlebars are you running and how are your cables routed (both inside or split)? Running cables split with rear der cable running on outer edge of bar will yield smoother curve and reduce friction, this is especially important on some newer compact bars where the bend from tops to the ramps is nearly a 90 degree turn...e.g. Easton EC90 SLX3). Are u crossing cables under the downtube?
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Flapmeat
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Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:52 pm

by Flapmeat

Paging Calnago, please, let me know how to remove Der hanger bolt :)

The threads I was talking about is the threads IN the mounting bolt to separate it (they have a 2 piece mounting bolt) so that I can adjust the spring tension. Not on how to remove and install the derailleur

Quick note: new cables and chain on the way from Ribble. I will completely redo everything when it comes in and take pics along the way

AJS914
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by AJS914

FWIW, this guide helped me out. Particularly, step 4 of threading the cables. Previously, I had a little bend and the end of the cable towards the shift lever and it caused drag and inconsistent shifting. Some guys say they can thread the cable without making a bend but if you make the bend near the tip of the cable you'll be cutting it off anyway. Also, note #5. Don't lose the O-rings when re-threading cables. Finanally, cut the cables cleanly so they don't make any drag. I've used a bench grinder after cutting to make a perfectly flat brake cable end. If you do that, it will melt the inner liner a bit. You will have to poke a cable through immediately afterwards to make a clean exit for the cable.

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