2015 Super Record shifting/RD issues

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Calnago
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by Calnago

@Flapmeat... I presume you are talking about removing the pulley cage from the main body of the derailleur, as opposed to touching the derailleur hanger, which is attached to the dropout of your frame? Anyway, I really seriously doubt this is your issue but yes, the bolt holding it in is not a reverse thread. Just normal. You just loosen that off... Slowly while keeping pressure on the cage itself because it will want to pop out at a certain point and the spring is powerful. You'll also want to do it carefully so the prongs on the spring don't come out of the hole in the cage before you can see which of the three holes it is in (that will probably make a lot more sense when you pull it apart). You need to know which hole it is currently in so you can figure out which of the other holes might work a bit better.

Before you go doing that, do me a favor and, while in a stand, put the drive train in the small cog/small chainring combo. Now very slowly turn the cranks while inspecting how the chain meets up and interfaces with the lower pulley of the derailleur. Does it travel smoothly or is there any point where the pulley teeth want to "ride up" a bit on the outer link of the chain and almost come off, or actually, ride right over the outer link and derail? I've ran into that on two brand new derailleurs over the last year and replacing the pulley cage was the solution.
Good luck.
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Flapmeat
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by Flapmeat

A Dremel with a cutoff wheel works wonders for cutting cables and housings. The only thing that burrs is the plastic outer layer of the housing, but grind it off at an angle on the cutoff wheel and it's gone. I have a pick that I use to reopen the inner plastic liner of the housing.


Calnago, what tools for that bolt, is it still T30 for the back side and T25 for the front side? Is there locktite requiring heat to break it free? I feel like im going to sheer off the torx teeth on the bolt.

When I get hme and get settled I will be sure to check this and report back before doing anything else (still waiting on chain and cables to show up, probably will be next week since they are coming from across the atlantic)

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maverick_1
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by maverick_1

Calnago wrote:Now very slowly turn the cranks while inspecting how the chain meets up and interfaces with the lower pulley of the derailleur. Does it travel smoothly or is there any point where the pulley teeth want to "ride up" a bit on the outer link of the chain and almost come off, or actually, ride right over the outer link and derail? I've ran into that on two brand new derailleurs over the last year and replacing the pulley cage was the solution.


@Calnago,
I'm facing this issue on my De Rosa (fitted with the 2015 SR RD). Chain consistently derails each time when it's at the smallest cog with the smallest chainring. Btw is it a warranty related case? And isn't the small-small combo a bad combination due to the extreme angle?

Thanks.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Flapmeat wrote:Calnago, what tools for that bolt, is it still T30 for the back side and T25 for the front side? Is there locktite requiring heat to break it free? I feel like im going to sheer off the torx teeth on the bolt.

Yikes... so you're talking about the bolt that fixes the derailleur to the hanger itself (since you referenced a T30mm backside and a T25 for the front). And no, they are both now T25 in 2015. And NO NO NO, do not try and pull that apart. It is what it is. The spring that I was talking about is in the Lower most part of the derailleur body, and is a longish wound up spring with two prongs on the end. You need to remove the pulley cage to get at it. I'll post a couple pics shortly...
Image

Image

You can see in the first pic the three holes I'm talking about where the prong of the spring can go into. Depending on which one you use, it will add or decrease tension to the spring, effectively giving a different range of adjustment when you turn the H-Screw (I'm just calling it that cuz I think that's what people are referring to that screw now, as opposed to the new "B" screw on the 2015 derailleurs).
In the second picture you can see how you need to remove the upper pulley wheel to be able to access the bolt that secures the pulley cage. It is secured with a 5mm Hex bolt.

You kids worry me sometimes :-|
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
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Calnago
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by Calnago

maverick_1 wrote:
Calnago wrote:Now very slowly turn the cranks while inspecting how the chain meets up and interfaces with the lower pulley of the derailleur. Does it travel smoothly or is there any point where the pulley teeth want to "ride up" a bit on the outer link of the chain and almost come off, or actually, ride right over the outer link and derail? I've ran into that on two brand new derailleurs over the last year and replacing the pulley cage was the solution.


@Calnago,
I'm facing this issue on my De Rosa (fitted with the 2015 SR RD). Chain consistently derails each time when it's at the smallest cog with the smallest chainring. Btw is it a warranty related case? And isn't the small-small combo a bad combination due to the extreme angle?

Thanks.

@Maverick: Firstly, have you verified that the hanger is perfectly aligned etc? That's the first step. This is the issue I really came on this thread in the first place for... to find out if others had experienced this issue without actually having to "prod" for it since I think a lot of folks with shifting issues automatically jump to conclusions like "oh yeah, that must be it". In most of the cases I've read about on this thread I think the problems are just common setup and friction issues. But yours seems to be the issue I have specifically dealt with. It's a very difficult one to ascertain but I think it now warrants it's own post. I have pics and a complete story about the process, including it's resolution. When I get a bit more time I'll post it here and you can tell me if this is the same issue you are having.
And yes, that combination is not one that you normally ever find yourself in, but it should still be totally useable without derailing your chain.
Last edited by Calnago on Fri Feb 12, 2016 6:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Calnago
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by Calnago

double post... sorry.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Flapmeat
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by Flapmeat

Ok, so regarding small/small and how the chain interacts with the lower pulley...everything is good. Whether going very slowly or going at 130rpm the chain never wants to jump off. When the smaller chain links come up the pulley it almost looks as if the pulley will take a wrong path but snaps right into the chain every single link. The chain never rides up on the pulley. It looks like the chain comes about a half mm away from hitting the inner cage.

When I initially installed every thing the Der hanger was way out of whack. The chain was popping off the lower pulley wheel and making some serious noise/rubbing HARD when it wasn't jumping off. Check hanger alignment first before doing a warranty claim?

Jeeze I can't even begin to believe I tried to dismantle the wrong piece. All I have been seeing is how the Der mounting bolt comes apart and bam! Spring tension can be adjusted. Looks like this ain't the case. I'll get this done tonight or tomorrow and see what happens. I'll put everything back to how it is right now when I put the new cables and chain on and see what happens. THANK YOU!!!

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