U shape/toroid profile aluminium

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coachboyd
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by coachboyd

mpulsiv wrote:What about Boyd Alamont? Shape looks like a copy of FLO 30, as aero as it gets.
http://www.boydcycling.com/2016-altamont-alloy-clincher]


Thanks, but we definitely didn't copy anybody on the shape. In fact, the widest part of the rim is the brake track whereas with the Flo rims it keeps getting wider down the rim.
I have not had a chance to compare both in the wind tunnel with the same tire so I can not say for certain which rim is more aero. However, I do know that with a torroidal shape (where the rim continues to get wider away from the brake track) you really have to beef up the wall thickness. Otherwise when the spokes pull on the rim it would change shape into more of a V shape. So, with this shape we could keep the same strength, and reduce wall thickness for about a 90 gram savings per rim over a torroidal shaped alloy rim.
http://www.boydcycling.com The Handcrafted Revolution

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spytech
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by spytech

fignonsbarber wrote:
Zoose wrote:
Another option is the Ligero VM29. 29mm height with 24 width and correct shape. Weight is not bad either. I have a set of these as well and tires go on easily. You can find a video of Troy mounting brand new tires to see for yourself. Dark matter coating is not available but I believe the standard rims are available to ship out.



Rim: http://www.ligerowheelworks.com/shop/li ... 29-pro-rim
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4Qvk6Y3MTU


I would strongly suggest a google search of Ligero wheelworks. I'm surprised he has resurfaced.


youve got too many good wheelbuilders on this forum to trust a guy like ligero... i would not trust this shady person.

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WMW
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by WMW

Zoose wrote:I always thought that the important aspect of the rim width was the inside width and that the wider the rim, the more spread out the tire casing and thus the better profile for the tire. In fact, I thought that the inner width was all that mattered as even if the outside width was 30mm (an extreme example) with the inside width staying at 17mm, the tire would still form the same shape.


He's right. Clincher tires always bulge out from the bead. If the inner and outer rim widths are about the same, then the tire will always be wider than the rim.

For best aero you actually want the tire narrower than the rim. So a large difference between inner and outer width is good. The wide inner might be good for other things, but not aero.
formerly rruff...

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mpulsiv
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by mpulsiv

WMW wrote:
Zoose wrote:I always thought that the important aspect of the rim width was the inside width and that the wider the rim, the more spread out the tire casing and thus the better profile for the tire. In fact, I thought that the inner width was all that mattered as even if the outside width was 30mm (an extreme example) with the inside width staying at 17mm, the tire would still form the same shape.


He's right. Clincher tires always bulge out from the bead. If the inner and outer rim widths are about the same, then the tire will always be wider than the rim.

For best aero you actually want the tire narrower than the rim. So a large difference between inner and outer width is good. The wide inner might be good for other things, but not aero.


Image
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Marin
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by Marin

Finally we have conclusive proof that on some rims, Conti tires actually assume an egg shape. 100% true! :D ;)

Multebear
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by Multebear

Krackor wrote:How about the Hed Belgium Plus?

Image

I have a set of the Flo 30s. They have been a great training wheelset. I haven't noticed any particular difficulty mounting tires. They're reasonably fast wheels for an aluminum rim, crosswinds are utterly unnoticeable.

I'm building up a new set of training wheels and I picked the Hed Belgium Plus. I've received rims but not hubs yet, so I can't offer ride impressions. The rim itself seems nice. The central point of the profile is quite a bit sharper than the Flo 30, but the transition from brake track to the rest of the rim is smooth with no ridge.


Did you buy your Flo30 wheels as prebuild wheels from Flo? Or did you buy rims only and had the wheels build yourself?

Krackor
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by Krackor

I bought the complete wheelset from Flo and rode them for about 6 months before rebuilding the rear myself with a Powertap G3. I've used them as my primary training wheelset since then, about 1.5 years since rebuild and 2 years total.

Now that I've finished my Belgium+ build, I can say that the Flo rim was a little harder to work with than the HED. The hop at the rim joint was harder to get rid of, but that's maybe equal parts the quality of the rim and my own inexperience. Rebuilding the Flo with the powertap hub was my first ever wheel build.

Multebear
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by Multebear

Krackor wrote:
I bought the complete wheelset from Flo and rode them for about 6 months before rebuilding the rear myself with a Powertap G3.



You mentioned earlier, that you don't have any problems mounting tires. Is this still the case with your rebould rear?

I have serious problems mounting tires on my homelaced Flo's. I've read as many reviews and hands on expeirences as I could find on the net. And it seems, that people with factory build wheelsets, don't have problems mounting tires, while homebuilders do.

Krackor
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by Krackor

It's been so long since I had the original rear wheel build that I don't really remember how mounting was. I don't have particular difficulty mounting on my current rear (home-built) and my current front (factory-built), for what that's worth. Maybe I have a higher personal tolerance for tight fitting tires? Most of the time I don't need to use tire levers to get the tires on. I often use a lever to remove the tire. I normally mount Continental GP4000s or GP4-seasons on those wheels.

Multebear
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by Multebear

I have many different wheels. None of them are causing any problems fitting tires except the Flo's. My DT R460 are not easy either. But easier than the Flo's.

@ OP:
On top of the tire fitting, I find Flo's alloy very soft. The braketrack gets worn faster than other wheels. But besides that, I love the Flo's. They feel fast also in crosswinds. My set of DT R460 are very good as well. They feel even faster than the Flo's, maybe because each rim is 100 gram lighter than Flo. I do a lot of accelerations when I ride/race, which is why I'm feeling the difference. But maybe it's just my imagination, who knows.

Titanium22
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by Titanium22

I had the V1 Pacenti 24/28h and weigh 70kg.

I was advised to use nipple washers, and the rear 28h still cracked (@ 3000miles) around 3 spoke holes.

The rim was replaced with V2, which has not cracked yet! but worse is the stupid 7.5mm high brake track. I had to shave down a new set of pads to fit, even Kool stop are wider than the track. You can with careful setup get them to work, but here in soggy UK, the pads as they have less rubber are worn out in 1500 miles.

Also, either V1 or V2, do not last long with regards to wear. I don't make a habit of riding in the rain, but roads are often damp or have water running across, even if its not raining.

My front rim is past the marker at 4500 miles or seven Mostly dry months, the rear has done about 1500 miles and the wear marker is just visible. I clean my bike after every ride, and even clean the pads and pick out the aluminium flakes that have embedded themselves into the rubber.

I would definitely never buy them again, even if they were as cheap as Dt 460, kinlin or others. At around 3 times the cost you would have to be crazy. At least with other options, pad set up is easy, and they will last as least as long, but probably longer.

I'm looking for a recommendation on the same lines too?

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mpulsiv
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by mpulsiv

Titanium22 wrote:I had the V1 Pacenti 24/28h and weigh 70kg.

I was advised to use nipple washers, and the rear 28h still cracked (@ 3000miles) around 3 spoke holes.

The rim was replaced with V2, which has not cracked yet! but worse is the stupid 7.5mm high brake track. I had to shave down a new set of pads to fit, even Kool stop are wider than the track. You can with careful setup get them to work, but here in soggy UK, the pads as they have less rubber are worn out in 1500 miles.

Also, either V1 or V2, do not last long with regards to wear. I don't make a habit of riding in the rain, but roads are often damp or have water running across, even if its not raining.

My front rim is past the marker at 4500 miles or seven Mostly dry months, the rear has done about 1500 miles and the wear marker is just visible. I clean my bike after every ride, and even clean the pads and pick out the aluminium flakes that have embedded themselves into the rubber.

I would definitely never buy them again, even if they were as cheap as Dt 460, kinlin or others. At around 3 times the cost you would have to be crazy. At least with other options, pad set up is easy, and they will last as least as long, but probably longer.

I'm looking for a recommendation on the same lines too?


This is the reason I steered away from Pacenti rim! I didn't bother adding them to comparison table until someone start throwing them in the mix.
Stick to DT Swiss R460 with WI T11 hubs http://www.novemberbicycles.com/nimbus-ti-open or Boyd Altamont http://www.boydcycling.com/2016-altamont-alloy-clincher
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.

:arrow: CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
:arrow: OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder

Krackor
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 pm

by Krackor

Multebear wrote:I have many different wheels. None of them are causing any problems fitting tires except the Flo's. My DT R460 are not easy either. But easier than the Flo's.

If it makes a difference, I'm using Stan's as my rim tape (two layers in front, one layer in back if I remember correctly). I think the Flo30 came with some black rim tape already applied, which I removed before installing the Stan's. If the Stan's is thinner than the factory tape it would affect the ease of tire mounting.

Multebear
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

Krackor wrote:
If it makes a difference, I'm using Stan's as my rim tape (two layers in front, one layer in back if I remember correctly). I think the Flo30 came with some black rim tape already applied, which I removed before installing the Stan's. If the Stan's is thinner than the factory tape it would affect the ease of tire mounting.



It's worth a try. But for now I just use this tire lever for mounting. Works like a dream:

Image


mpulsiv wrote:
This is the reason I steered away from Pacenti rim! I didn't bother adding them to comparison table until someone start throwing them in the mix.
Stick to DT Swiss R460 with WI T11 hubs http://www.novemberbicycles.com/nimbus-ti-open



Totally agree. DT R460 rim, and either DT 240s, WI T11 or Dura Ace hubs in 24/28 spokeconfig. That's a bombproof set, with many trouble free and cheap miles.

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

mpulsiv wrote:
Stick to DT Swiss R460 with WI T11 hubs http://www.novemberbicycles.com/nimbus-ti-open or Boyd Altamont http://www.boydcycling.com/2016-altamont-alloy-clincher



Are you still riding your R460 rims with T11 hubs? How are they holding up?

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