Long Term powermeter reviews.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Since 2010 I've had 3 SRM's. Prior to that I had a Powertap SLC+.
- First SRM was for a SRAM based TT bike. Gets the least use but has been rock solid and trouble free.
- Second SRM was for my Campy equipped C59 in 2011 I believe, maybe 2012. It was one of the first units that used the Campy cranks. Beautiful piece of kit and aesthetically there is no better brand for Campy. Don't underestimate the value of the CULT bearings if you're using it in wet weather, which you said is one of your priorities. The CULT bearings are unsealed but seem impervious to water. Clean them up by blowing some compressed air at them with a little cleaner and they spin and sound like a high speed dental tool. Again, zero issues with this unit.
- Third SRM just acquired this summer, also for my C59 (the second unit is now on my rain bike). This is the new four arm unit and I think it looks better than the all carbon factory cranks. Biggest advantage is that with the new design you can change to any of the chainring combinations (34/50, 36/52, 39/53). I have two sets of rings, the 36/52 and the standard 39/53. Again, aesthetically, there is no nicer unit for Campagnolo drive trains.

I did not get all these units at the same time, and in fact each choice was based on the fact that I had zero issues with the previous one I purchased. None. They are extremely well sealed, and since you're looking at using it in cold, wet weather, that is something to consider over some of the other options. And again, the CULT bearings are a big plus in bad weather.

I have installed Quarks on Cannondale Hollowgram cranks and they seem to be ok, at least the ones I've installed but do not have the aesthetics of the Campy SRM.

The P2M's look ok, but I've had zero personal experience with them.

So, I guess if you can swing it financially, I'd go with SRM as well, and if it's a Campy install, then I'd really try to go that way for the aesthetics alone, with piece of mind knowing that the unit is rock solid.

I pair mine with the Garmin units, as I find them much more useful to me than the SRM head unit. And I use Training Peaks Premium for analysis. With the Garmin 1000 it's pretty slick in that it can upload automatically to Garmin Connect via home wifi as soon as I'm home, so that it's already in the computer before I have my stuff off, and I've also set it up so that it automatically tranfers to Training Peaks as well. Seamless.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

by Weenie


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ergott
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by ergott

I was mostly interested in the SRM and the P2max. It's great to know there aren't numerous P2max complaints. The least expensive way I would do this is to buy the Force 22 spider and swap into my existing crank. That's $640 for a PM that sounds like it will last. As much as I like the idea of an SRM I would need some really good reason to step up that amount of money.

Any negative reviews worth reading on the Power2max?

For that matter, I would get the Sram spider for one bike and a Rotor 3D for the other for less than one SRM.

Someone tell me this is a bad idea or I'll pull the trigger on it soon.

Thanks for the feedback people. I know there are a lot of high mileage riders here to get great firsthand feedback from.
:beerchug:

dalex
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by dalex

ergott wrote:I was mostly interested in the SRM and the P2max. It's great to know there aren't numerous P2max complaints. The least expensive way I would do this is to buy the Force 22 spider and swap into my existing crank. That's $640 for a PM that sounds like it will last. As much as I like the idea of an SRM I would need some really good reason to step up that amount of money.

Any negative reviews worth reading on the Power2max?



Haven't seen any very negative reviews of P2M, particularly since they made began temperature compensation for the zero offset. Compared to SRMs (or Quarqs) there is one particular advantage, in that you cannot manually calibrate the slope. From what I have read it is not quite clear whether their dynamic calibration is a) consistent from P2M and b) gives power values uniform to calibrated SRMs or Quarqs. Some feedback I have been given is that there is a slight lag in the power reading. Personally I find this irksome (my SRMs - which I love) are lag free, the first generation Rotor I tried was not and it drove me nuts (along with other problems). I would be interested to know if this is indeed the case?

One upside to SRM, at least in Europe, is that you buy the power meter for life. All generations of SRMs are still supported, and they repair if needed. This also means that they can be a worthwhile second hand purchase.

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ergott
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by ergott

Thanks.

Is the lag on the file afterwards? I could live with delay on the bike since I've run 3sec and 30sec average in the past anyway.

dalex
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 12:05 pm

by dalex

RyanH wrote:[*]SRM + Garmin kind of sucks: it auto calibrates whenever coasting for 5s (can't turn that feature off) which can *potentially* lead to reading wrong. OTOH, every time I thought it was reading off, after stopping to calibrate I found the slope was nearly identical to the saved value so it might not be a real concern other than knowing that eats away at you when you're mashing up a climb full bore and your power numbers are reading what you think is low.
[*]SRM spider is heavier


Actually on Garmin 510, 520 and 810 you can turn off the SRM auto zero offset, so this is no longer an excuse/problem for SRM + Garmin! Also, if you are using auto zero offset and want to make sure that the value is correct, go to the calibration screen while still pedaling and/or make sure you keep pedaling as you come to a stop. (You don't even need to stop to check/calibrate zero offset, but that's another matter.) As for slope, this is something else entirely. The SRM informs the Garmin of its slope. However, you are now able to update/change the SRMs slope from a Garmin.

Note that the 110 BCD SRM spider appears to be much lighter than the 130 BCD spider. I believe it is typically about 120 g, so is relatively light and can give a weight delta over a standard spider of about 80 g.

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ergott
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by ergott

All this talk is getting me anxious to get back on power!

All the help/feedback is much appreciated.

:thumbup:

TimW
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by TimW

Power2Max Rotor 3d+ user of 2-3 years, including British winters. Never missed a beat. Got a Campag type s last year too, just works.

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luckypuncheur
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by luckypuncheur

Very interesting topic - I seem to be lucky not to have any any issues with my PM until today:

1 x Quarq Riken
Use it for 2,5 years, consistent reading (maybe a bit on the high side compared to other PM), no spikes whatsoever, no temperature drift noticed, changing batteries is a 10 second job, would recommend it if there was no P2M.

1 x Powertap G3
Use it on my Winterbike in mostly horrible conditions - works flawless for 2 years now. Consistent reading (slightly lower that P2M and Quarq), no spikes, but quite frequent battery changes necessary. Nevertheless: Would recommend this one too, but again P2M is the better deal in my opinion.

2 x P2M S-Type (one on a K-Force crank, one on a Rotor 3D+)
In use for 1,5 and 0,5 years respectively, very good in all departments. Never had single issue with them, look good, low weight. Battery lasts very long (CR2450) and replacement is also hassle free. Calibration values and power reading seems more consistent than with the Quarq and on par with the Powertap. Set and forget product.
Get a bicycle. You will certainly not regret it, if you live.

Krackor
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by Krackor

I used a P2M Type S (110 BCD on Sram S900 crank) on my cross bike this season and it's endured rain, sand, mud, frozen mud, and careless hose spray without complaint for ~6 months. I haven't ridden it below 25F though.

I recently added a P2M Type S to my road bike (110 BCD on Rotor 3D+) and I've had no issues so far, but that's not saying much for two weeks of riding indoors on the trainer.

One thing I've enjoyed so far is the fast calibration on my Garmin 500. My Powertap G3s will take up to 5-10s to get a calibration, and occasionally they are wildly off. So far the P2M has been very fast to calibrate (0.5s usually) and no erratic calibrations. I usually get numbers in the negative 800s which was surprising at first after coming from the positive 500s that the Powertap reads, but -800 seems fine for P2M.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I am getting on quite well with Garmin Vector 2's double sided. I use these in all weathers. It is the U.K though so they never get really cold. They simply work without any issues. I don't move it between bikes though as while it is simple it still is hassle.

I will happily buy a third set for the new race bike as that is a Look and I am not getting rid of Looks ZED 3 crank.

Turbopowr
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Location: Orlando, FL

by Turbopowr

Another satisfied P2M customer here. Have had a Type S for Specialized (130 bcd) for about 2 1/2 years and it has been rock solid reliable.
Hector Cabrera
Orlando, FL
2011 Spec Tarmac Pro DA

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ergott
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by ergott

Just ordered P2M spider for my Force 22 crankset.

I feel a lot better ordering hearing the feedback here. Can't wait!

Cheers,

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phips
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by phips

ergott wrote:Just ordered P2M spider for my Force 22 crankset.

I feel a lot better ordering hearing the feedback here. Can't wait!

Cheers,


Well I don't really need to post this to help you then - but I will say I've had SRM, Polar(old chain based system!), powertap(s), Quarq and power2max. I swapped out everything for p2ms. Have three Type-S (one is Campag, two are Rotor) and an MTB Type-S. Some have been run in winter, some summer only, one has been ridden through sand and salt water (crossed the Passage du Gois in France as the tide was almost out!) and all have been faultless. Not a single one has given me any trouble, whatsoever. And what's more, you just get on and ride.

Can't recommend them enough. And no, I don't work for them ;-)

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ergott
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by ergott

phips wrote:
Well I don't really need to post this to help you then


Still helps out other folk. It's a good thread to keep people informed of real world feedback on a rather expensive component that many of us use now.

:beerchug:

by Weenie


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glam2deaf
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by glam2deaf

A bit off topic, but what happened to the Shimano 4 arm compatible P2M? I remember seeing it a while ago, but no sign of it online. Would like to change so Dura-Ace rings, and after such a good run with p2m I'm happy to stick with them.

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