Best BB for Cervelo R5 (24mm)
Moderator: robbosmans
Hey Guys,
I am buying a new cervelo 2016 R5, and i currently have a Rotor 3D 24mm Power2max power meter that i would like to bring across.
I understand i need a new BB, what would you recommend? i am thinking of just getting the rotor bbright 24mm one.
cheers,
I am buying a new cervelo 2016 R5, and i currently have a Rotor 3D 24mm Power2max power meter that i would like to bring across.
I understand i need a new BB, what would you recommend? i am thinking of just getting the rotor bbright 24mm one.
cheers,
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If you got some money, how about to consider ceramicspeed.
Otherwise rotor BB, fried chicken, pizzzzza and beeeers would be perfect.
Otherwise rotor BB, fried chicken, pizzzzza and beeeers would be perfect.
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just had a wheels manufacturing 24mm threaded bright bottom bracket. Very impressed, no noise and spins very nicely with endura bearings
clarkson wrote:I just installed a wheels mfg angular contact threaded bb for bbright to shimano (24mm), and have been so pleased I'll replace my other pf bikes to the same in short order.
Looks like a great option - what are those press fit tools? Did you buy them yourself? will a LBS have them?
+1 on wheels manufacturing threaded BB.
However, they are much heavier than advertised.
Claimed = 98g
Actual =140g without spacers (8g)
Still good BB though, just don't want you to be surprise like me.
However, they are much heavier than advertised.
Claimed = 98g
Actual =140g without spacers (8g)
Still good BB though, just don't want you to be surprise like me.
Per WheelsManufacturing instruction, you'll need:
- grease/teflon past/anti seized depending on your frame material
- 16-notch BB tool, ref: Park Tool BBT-29
- bearing press
http://wheelsmfg.com/tech/PDF/BBRIGHT-O ... CTIONS.pdf
- grease/teflon past/anti seized depending on your frame material
- 16-notch BB tool, ref: Park Tool BBT-29
- bearing press
http://wheelsmfg.com/tech/PDF/BBRIGHT-O ... CTIONS.pdf
The BB can be installed without a bearing press. I have a bearing press but I didn't end up using it.
Few things:
The drive side (DS) and none drive side (NDS) press fit interface have different outer diameter (OD).
- NDS: slightly larger OD, very tight pressed fit with the frame BB shell.
- DS: slightly smaller OD, slightly looser fit with the frame BB shell.
What that means:
- NDS: can only be fitted into the BB shell by going in straight.
- DS: looser fit with clearance allow it to slide in by just threading in.
What I did on my R3 MUD:
1. apply teflon on press fit interface
2. apply grease, or thread lube, on BB cup threads
3. press in the DS BB cup first, the looser fit makes it easy to slide in without a press.
4. place the NDS BB cup on the frame (in my case NDS BB cup bumped against the DS BB cup first before the press fit interface comes to contact with the carbon BB shell. Your frame may have different tolerance)
5. rotate the NDS BB cup, and thread into the DS BB cup thread
6. stop threading the NDS once it comes in contact with the carbon BB shell, I was able to get at least 1 full rotation of engagement.
7. rotate the DS BB cup and draw the NDS BB cup in.
8. once the NDS BB cup is mostly seated, light tap the NDS BB cup inward to make sure it really is fully seated
9. apply final torque on the DS BB cup. 35~50 Nm approx.
I was pretty careful through out this process and I don't see a problem with what I've done. I haven't put a lot of miles on this bike yet though, but some short rides, sprints, feels solid.
Someone please let me know if I screwed something up here
Few things:
The drive side (DS) and none drive side (NDS) press fit interface have different outer diameter (OD).
- NDS: slightly larger OD, very tight pressed fit with the frame BB shell.
- DS: slightly smaller OD, slightly looser fit with the frame BB shell.
What that means:
- NDS: can only be fitted into the BB shell by going in straight.
- DS: looser fit with clearance allow it to slide in by just threading in.
What I did on my R3 MUD:
1. apply teflon on press fit interface
2. apply grease, or thread lube, on BB cup threads
3. press in the DS BB cup first, the looser fit makes it easy to slide in without a press.
4. place the NDS BB cup on the frame (in my case NDS BB cup bumped against the DS BB cup first before the press fit interface comes to contact with the carbon BB shell. Your frame may have different tolerance)
5. rotate the NDS BB cup, and thread into the DS BB cup thread
6. stop threading the NDS once it comes in contact with the carbon BB shell, I was able to get at least 1 full rotation of engagement.
7. rotate the DS BB cup and draw the NDS BB cup in.
8. once the NDS BB cup is mostly seated, light tap the NDS BB cup inward to make sure it really is fully seated
9. apply final torque on the DS BB cup. 35~50 Nm approx.
I was pretty careful through out this process and I don't see a problem with what I've done. I haven't put a lot of miles on this bike yet though, but some short rides, sprints, feels solid.
Someone please let me know if I screwed something up here
clipsed wrote:The reason i asked is the LBS has the Rotor in stock, would you guys think the Wheels/Ceramic speed would be worth ordering in? I want NO NOISE. haha.
Follow ur instinct, go with the Rotor specifically designed for ur cranks that ur LBS already has in stock. The Rotor adapters will be lighter then the Wheels Manufacturing solution as well. As for ceramic bearings, they might yield a bit more longevity (durability wise) but there will b no dicsernable difference in speed. Not to mention, a CeramicSpeed bearing upgrade is absurdly expensive, especially for a hybrid ceramic bearing system that uses only coated races (compared to hardened stainless steel races in CULT ceramic systems from Campagnolo).
Lastly, if u want to avoid noise, specifically the well known press fit creak, then make sure u use Loctite 609 and Loctite primer to install ur BBRight/Rotor adapter cups (no exceptions!!!), otherwise creaking is all but certain.
EM3
______________
I agree with the loctite 601 (or 609 depending where you live it's the same stuff) between the cups and frame. It is specifically designed for that type of interface.
+1 for the wheels manufacturing bb's. I switched my bikes over. No press required for me. I wouldn't go back to a BB that wasn't threaded together.
+1 for the wheels manufacturing bb's. I switched my bikes over. No press required for me. I wouldn't go back to a BB that wasn't threaded together.
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