I have full DA setup inc chain, 3000 miles and the chain is getting ready for replacement.
No problem with the DA, except I had to buy a KMC missing link.
3000 miles is kind of light on mileage, I usually get much more than that. Probably ok if you do a lot of rain/messy riding.
Why would you need a messing link? The Shimano DA pin, properly installed, is all you need. My chains come off exactly once - when it's worn out. Removing for cleaning is unnecessary and adds to the likelihood of a problem.
I'd recommend an HG900 chain every single time. Smooth, quiet, relatively cheap. No way I'd mess with a SRAM chain for 11spd.
Thank you for all who have posted.
In regards to the above, I do ride in all weathers, but generally not in heavy rain, unless I get caught in it. However the roads in the UK, are often wet.
I have the park CC2 chain checker, the one with the twisty bit. After 3000 miles it measure's the 0.75 mark which means change the chain. However, I have read that these and any other chain checkers, measure between the rollers and so give an in accurate figure, as the rollers internal diameter will have got slightly bigger, making the chain look more stretched than it is? I presume.Sheldon Brown says, "There are also special tools made to measure chain wear; these are a bit more convenient, though by no means necessary, and most -- except for the Shimano TL-CN40 and TL-CN41 -- are inaccurate because they allow roller play to confound the measurement of link-pin wear".
If I measure rivet to rivet centre, over 12", then after 3000 miles the length has increased by only 1/32"
Below is copied from Sheldon Brown;Measuring Chain Wear
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one link pin, then looking at the corresponding link pin 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this link pin will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the link pin will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink. Measurement is also possible with a metric ruler -- see below. -- John Allen]
This technique gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.
If the link pin is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
If the link pin is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the link pin is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
If the link pin is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
So, My Park tool says my Chain is worn out, and any further wear will ruin my sprockets. Measuring Sheldon Brown method, says its about half worn @ 1/32" over 12 inches!
Which is it? I would rather replace than wear my sprockets, but if its ok, why change it?
I don't use a chain cleaner, just a clean rag, good wipe (inc chain rings and jockeys), re-lube (wet), rotate the chainset a few times, and clean off again. sometimes I repeat this, and I do it every ride, approx 50-75 miles.