Real world weight saving?

[PLuKE]

I am after for some realistic advice.

My current bike isn't a WW, I have gone for a more aero direction, wheelset and handlebars and clothing as its pretty flat here in Suffolk, there are some climbs but there normally short sharpish.

I have been looking at changing my current stem/seatpost for Deda Superleggero and could save 130g with them.

Maybe add a Dura Ace cassette to save a further 40g meaning 170g saving then.

Now would 130/ 170g make any real world difference, in accelertions or a few odd climbs on my routes

Sorry if this sounds odd!

Thanks
Luke

[Calnago]

Short answer, No, it won't make a bit of real word difference. Only thing odd is that you felt you had to ask.

[PLuKE]

Short answer, No, it won't make a bit of real word difference. Only thing odd is that you felt you had to ask.

I had to ask, so I can make an informed decision, I am fairly new to the cycling game so I am gathering all my information.

Thank you.

[sungod]

accelerating/climbing, you'll save energy in direct proportion to weight reduction, it's simple physics

save 0.1% system weight and at constant velocity you will use 0.1% less energy to raise it by a given distance

or, at constant power input, you'll get to the top not quite 0.1% faster (it's not quite 0.1% due to the non-linear aerodynamic losses)

but losing a couple of hundred g will not feel any different, you need to drop a lot more to really notice it

[PLuKE]

no need to quote when replying.

Thank you, It seems that this wouldn't be worthwhile. To save this weight would be around £1/$1.50 per 1gram.

Luke

[eric]

Use this page to model the improvement from less weight: http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesLe ... _Page.html

[AJS914]

I can feel maybe 1/2 pound (225g) increments. The bike will feel a tiny bit more nimble.

I always evaluate parts and upgrades by bang for the buck. I'm a Campy guy so lets take the Campy crankset. Chorus is $330, Record (-40gms) is $440, and Super Record Ti is $600 (-85grams). Is saving 85 grams worth $270 when the cranksets function identically and have the same chainrings? Actually, Super Record has ceramic bearings but still, you get my point.

Another example, I have a very nice 1500gram $600 wheelset. To get to a 1350 gram wheelset would cost around $1500. Is it worth it?

I did buy a Deda Superleggero stem. It was a pure vanity purchase since I already had a Deda Zero 100 on hand but I wanted a certain look on my C59.

To take a full pound (450 grams) off of my bike, would take around $2000. It's not worth it to me. Some guys have the cash and go straight for the best of everything plus the weight weenie parts. I also don't compete anymore. I ride for fun. Carrying an extra 250 or 500 grams is not going to change the ride much. I'd be better off losing 5 kilos. Unfortunately, you can't click a few buttons and put that on the credit card.

[mrgray]

this is an interesting post in my opinion simply because it gets to the whole raison d'etre of WWs. and as the replies indicate that is not necessarily about performance. it is the thrill/challenge of having a light bike, plus some "feel" aspects. personally i love it but a year down the track from when i started doing this i certainly don't think it will make me faster. what i like is the bit where you pick the bike up and it is, for its size, ridiculously light.

OP, you sound like you are doing well to focus on aero etc. but if i were you i'd also make a spreadsheet, list components, list weights and prices of these, and tackle the best bang per buck stuff first and get that weight down. one caveat - retain function as a top priority. superlight cables save 50 grams but they can suck, light brakes are expensive and save weight but they can function worse than cheaper ones, light tyres may lack resilience etc.

to me this is the WW thing, how light can i make it but still retain the ride characteristics i need.

[wheelsONfire]

I read a weight saving that gives you what you may look for, (you feel the weight drop) is when you hit 1/3 of saving.

I don't know if it's any truth to this above statement, but going from a 7680 gram machine to 5750 g i can feel.

Then again, it could be debated if it's the weight drop i feel or if it's other things come in to play.

[PLuKE]

Thank you for your comments.

I worked out the costs and there not cheap, but nothing is in cycling if you want performance of low weight components.

My saving would be around the 190-200g mark, which I am unsure would make a difference in my terrain I cycle in.

Luke

[prebsy]

@mrgray summarized the WW mindset nicely. I think for everyone it is a bit different, for me it is working around the $1 per gram threshold. I enjoy the balancing act and it's fun to make a bike "sneaky" light. A perfect example of this would be rival shifts and rails are lighter than DA9000 or the EVO si expander. Of all the incremental improvements you can make to your bike cutting weight is probably the least likely to improve your performance, except for cases of specialization, but it is the most tangible and might make you happy in other ways and for that I think it's worth it.

[mr4fox]

this is an interesting post in my opinion simply because it gets to the whole raison d'etre of WWs. and as the replies indicate that is not necessarily about performance. it is the thrill/challenge of having a light bike, plus some "feel" aspects. personally i love it but a year down the track from when i started doing this i certainly don't think it will make me faster. what i like is the bit where you pick the bike up and it is, for its size, ridiculously light.

OP, you sound like you are doing well to focus on aero etc. but if i were you i'd also make a spreadsheet, list components, list weights and prices of these, and tackle the best bang per buck stuff first and get that weight down. one caveat - retain function as a top priority. superlight cables save 50 grams but they can suck, light brakes are expensive and save weight but they can function worse than cheaper ones, light tyres may lack resilience etc.

to me this is the WW thing, how light can i make it but still retain the ride characteristics i need.

Agreed!! it has to work and be reliable. Nothing slows you down more than a malfunction. Even worse, if that malfunction means you don't complete that days workout (or several if waiting for new parts) and so you loose fitness too then you'll be even slower.

But to the OP's Q....

I can notice a 100g difference if its at the saddle but only when climbing/sprinting out of the saddle. the bike feels easer to rock side to side. but i doubt this results in me being any faster. but other than that i doubt you'd notice much, if any difference. but you might love your bike that little bit extra which can give extra motivation to get out and ride more and thats always fun!

An areo speed suit would be better bang for the buck for speed.

[kgt]

wwism is just a hobby. If you want to be a faster, better, more competitive cyclist you should invest on training.

[mr4fox]

wwism is not just a hobby...its an addiction...be careful PLuKE! but seriously, its important to have a bit of fun planning your next weightweenie mod/purchase, and everyone needs something to do on a recovery day right?

[eric]

A full bottle weighs about 450g (1 lb). Do you feel a difference between having a half bottle and full bottle? I'm extremely fussy about my bikes and I don't feel that difference.