PowerCordz Swift installation. Newbie seeks advice.

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WannabeWeenie
Posts: 106
Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:05 pm
Location: Minnesota, USA

by WannabeWeenie

After reading all the threads I could find arguing the merits of the various cables and housings, I have decided to convert my bike to full Power Cordz Swift cables and housings for both brakes and shifters. I have had no prior experience with segmented cable housing whatsoever.

I have read about how the cables can only be crushed in a clamp one time. The bike is externally cabled so I do not have to worry about fishing segmented housing through tubes. Anything else that I should be wary of?

EDIT: Thread title changed per feedback.
Last edited by WannabeWeenie on Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

Marin
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by Marin

From the thread title I first thought you lived in a condo and got a turbo trainer, and were now having problems with your neighbours!!!! :D

Sorry, no experience with segmented housing :/

by Weenie


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prendrefeu
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by prendrefeu

WannabeWeenie wrote:Anything else that I should be wary of?


Yeah, maybe having a better thread title so people out there can help you out with your specific concerns. :thumbup:
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.

WannabeWeenie
Posts: 106
Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:05 pm
Location: Minnesota, USA

by WannabeWeenie

Just in case someone comes across this thread in search of information on PowerCordz Swift cables and housings, I have decided to post this:

Recommendations from the Manufacturer
I called IO Products to see if they had any suggestions before I embarked on this project
1. Arrange the beads on the liner for drainage. This means the convex ends of the beads either face upwards or forwards on the bike.
2. Pretension the rear derailleur cable by holding the derailleur at the third cog in from the end of the cassette.
3. Use of the grommet on the cable clamp is optional on brakes/derailleurs, especially those with smooth surfaces inside the clamp. However, using the grommet will allow for more opportunities to reclamp the cable if initial attempts are not optimal.

Observations and Lessons Learned
1. The beads are not consistently tight on the liner. Some may stay in position with friction; some may slide easily from one end to the other.
2. The liner appears to come pre-lubricated. Limit the number of times you thread a cable through a given piece of liner to maintain lubricity.
3. There are two types of terminator beads: Convex and concave. The flat end of each terminator bead butts up against the lever/braze-on/derailleur/brake. The convex/concave end mates with the regular bead. Which terminator bead is used at each end of the housing is determined by the direction of the regular beads obviously.
4. The brake and shift cable kits do not come with ferrules, nor are the needed. Simply cut the liner such about an inch sticks out the end of each terminator bead at the braze-ons where ferrules would normally be used.
5. When routing cables and housings internally, run the cables from the levers through each internal passage first, then slide the correct length of liner onto the cable, and then thread beads onto the cable and over the liner. Complete this procedure for each internal passage before repeating it on the next internal passage as you work down the bike. DO NOT assemble the beads onto the liner and then attempt to run it through the internal passage like a regular housing. You WILL have a bead come loose and get lost inside the handlebar/frame. That loose bead(s) will be impossible to retrieve.
6. Unless you get cable runs right the first time every time, use the grommets in the clamps. These get torn up first before the outer liner of the cable and give you many more opportunities for adjustment. Each grommet will survive approximately 3 clampings before becoming useless.
7. Do not let cats come close to loose cables hanging over the bike. They will chew on the cables and mess them up. Same thing for liner.

Pictures to follow.

sungod
Posts: 1702
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm

by sungod

the pictures have long gone into the bitbucket, but the text in the posting i did several years ago may help with how to get the tension right when clamping...

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92700&hilit=powercordz&start=15#p812939

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