Speedplay Ti spindles off ebay & actual body rebuild kit....

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cep111
Posts: 95
Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:50 pm

by cep111

Ti bolts and bowties are available as well. The complete pedal ends up being 153 grams or so. Seems like I paid $80 for the new plastic speedplay assemblies.

by Weenie


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nickf
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Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 pm

by nickf

How do the Ti bowties hold up?

mattcooke
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by mattcooke

I'd like to hear about the titanium bowties also. Thanks.

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BRM
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by BRM

Did you searched topics on Speedplay already? Did you found the guide that gives you proper instructions to change bearings/spindles? Be aware of the bolt that needs to be heat up to break the loctite!

I understand you have questions but really all about speedplay is already written. Sadly information is spread into a large amount of topics. Just because people open again and again new topics about speedplay. Its a vicious circle of forums like this.

About TI-Bowties
WheresWaldo wrote: (29 Dec 2014, 17:20)
. . . . .
2. Finding Ti replacement parts for Speedplay that doesn't come from Speedplay with it's associated high cost is not easy. Speedplay is by nature a suspicous and litigious company. They tend to go after anyone they feel could cause harm to their brand. They are much worse than Specialized ever was and tend to keep their bullying out of the press. Bowties will be easier to find, and do wear, but the Ti ones won't wear any better than the steel ones. Its only the aluminum "weightweenie" bowties that wear abnormally fast.



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About Ward spindles

Biggest advantage to Ward spindles is the availability of different spindle lengths- they makes short and long ones

So being weight weenies here is the important information.
SS Speedplay spindles were 51-52g each
Ti Ward spindles were 27g each for the shorter versions and 28g each for the regular versions.

Available in 5 lengths to adjust your Q-factor:
72.4mm,
76.2mm (stock ti spindle length)
78.6mm (stock stainless and CroMoly length)
82.55mm
85.8mm.

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This information is at least 1 year old, dunno about current options and prices

We do now have Sleek No Wrench Flat Zero Replacement Ti Spindles available.
The Chromoly Stainless Standard Ti Replacement version is 78.6mm(62g) and costs $57/set.
The Titanium Standard nano length is 76.2mm(61g) and also costs $57/set.
Our Short spindle is 72.4mm(55g) and costs $57/set.
Our Long version is 82.55mm(64g) and costs $60/set.
The Longest version is 85.8mm(68g/set) and costs $61/set.
Now we are also offering an Ultra Long Zero(91.8mm) for $70/set.

These spindles also fit X-1 and X-2 model pedals.

Add shipping costs ($5.65 for USA and $24.05 International).



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Guide to Speedplay / Instructions
The needle bearings on all models of XXXXXX road bike pedals are NOT fused or glued in any way and are very easy to change out. Instructions below.

The only differences between the X1 and X2 are spindle material and body color. You can rebuild your X1’s with X2 bodies with NO problems. They are the exact same except for color. No need to spend $100+ to rebuild your pedals.

the internals of all of the models listed below have been measured using a micrometer and found to be identical and cross-compatible. The bodies, cleats and bowties are different, but inside they are all the same.

X1 & X2.
Zero Ti, Stainless & Chromoly.
Light Action Ti & Stainless

You can interchange bodies and spindles between all pedals listed above. Note: Ti spindles are 2mm shorter. You can use Ward Ti spindles on any of the models listed above.

X5 (aka X3) and Light Action Chromoly are completely different inside and not compatible with the other pedals listed above.

To do a full rebuild requires the following items which can be found at any bearing/hardware supply company:

2 each - HK1010 Needle Bearings. Measurements: OD=14mm BORE=10mm WIDTH=10mm.

2 each - Bearing 136 also known as 686z, 686zz, 686 z, 686 zz. Measurements: OD=13mm BORE=6mm WIDTH=5mm

2 each - Bearing 137 also known as 137z, 137zz, mr137, mr137z, mr137zz, mr 137, mr 137 z, mr 137 zz. Measurements: OD=13mm BORE=7mm WIDTH =4mm

2 each - Inner Retaining Ring BORE=1/2" WIDTH=0.03"

2 each - Rubber O-Ring. ID=5/16" OD=7/16" WIDTH=1/16"

For those of you wanting to lighten up your pedals with aluminum or titanium screws the screw size is:

Bowtie Screws - M4 x 0.7 x 17mm recessed flat head in Stainless Steel. 17mm is the total length of the screw top-to-bottom. 16mm is much easier to find and there should be no problems using the shorter screws for this application. Some flat head screws have a head that is too tall and can protrude from the top of the bowtie. Make sure you get low head screws.

Spindle Screws - M4 x 0.7 x 8mm button head in Furnace Black Steel. 8mm is the length of the threads below the head.



To replace the bearings unscrew the grease port screw. Using a pick pry off the dust cap. Older pedals will not have the grease port or port screw. Next, remove the spindle screw by using a torx bit or allen wrench (depending on the type of screw) and either a 6mm or 8mm Hex in the Spindle or a 15mm wrench on the Spindle flats (depending on your spindle type).

If, at this point, the screw is stuck do not overtorque it or you will risk stripping out the head. The loctite is seizing the screw. Disclaimer: any carelessness can result in injury. You will need to heat the screw to melt the loctite. To do so get a hex bit screw driver and hex bit with the proper torx or allen head for the screw. A hex bit is a small bit the that slides into a quick-change screw driver. Do a Google search for 'hex bit if you don't know or go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Torx_drivers.jpg Place just the hex bit into the screw holding the pedal with the screw straight up. Now with a blow torch or good heat gun heat up the end of the bit (furthest point away from the pedal)until it is red hot making sure you do not heat the pedal body. Wait for about 30 seconds to allow the heat from the bit to transfer into the screw melting the loctite. Then slide the hex bit screw driver onto the bit and unscrew. If heated thoroughly the screw will unscrew with minimal effort.

With the screw removed you can now slide the entire body assembly off. The old o-ring should be on the spindle. Remove and discard. Wipe the spindle clean and set aside. Using a retaining ring tool compress the ring and pull straight out. Now using a punch or screw driver carefully tap out the 2 bearings. Discard the old retaining ring and bearings.

Flip the pedal body around to the side with the needle bearing. On the outside lip of the bearing is a thin wire retaining ring. Most all early models do not have this retaining ring. If your dust cap does not have a grease port screw, it probably does not have the retaining ring. Take a pick and pry up one side of the retaining ring. Then with a pair of pliers pull it out. If it is damaged don't worry. You can usually bend it back and tap it in. If not it is not a 'necessary' piece and you can use your pedals without it. No problem. Flip the pedal over and you will see 2 slots behind the needle bearing. Take a small flat blade screw driver and insert into one of the slots and tap with a rubber mallet. The needle bearing will pop right off. Note that the old bearing will now be damaged and is not re-useable. Wipe the inside clean.

To reassemble first place the new o-ring onto the spindle about 1/3 of the way. Now take the new needle bearing and slide it in as far as you can by hand. Make sure the lettering is on the outside as each side is slightly different. Then carefully tap it with a rubber mallet until it is flush with the pedal body. Take the old needle bearing and place it on the new bearing and tap with a rubber mallet until it is completely seated. Discard the old needle bearing. Take the metal retaining ring and tap it into the slot. Now take the pedal body and slide in the 2 bearings making sure you slide in the thinner bearing first. Make sure the bearings are seated all the way in before installing the retaining ring. The ring should clip into the groove in the pedal body. Take the body assembly and slide it back onto the spindle making sure the o-ring seats properly. Take the spindle screw and dab a little blue loctite onto the threads and screw it in. Do not use green or red loctite as you will not be able to remove the screw in the future. Tighten to 3.5nm torque which is equal to 30in/lb or 2.5ft/lb. Install the dust cap and grease the pedal with a grease gun. Screw in the grease port screw and you're done!! The pedals will feel slightly stiff to start with but will loosen up after a few miles. New or freshly greased pedals may leak grease for the first few rides which is completely normal.

mattcooke
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by mattcooke

I ordered and received the Ward spindles for the Zeros.
I haven't measured them but they came in a few up grams lighter than they claimed.
They must be between 56 and 57 grams
I'll build them them this weekend. Hopefully the bike will be done too. Im excited.

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lewolive
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by lewolive

That's a great choice.
I have been riding with these for 3 years and I'm fully satisfied.
It's a fantastic upgrade for a low price and a significant improvement in terms of performance.

Replacement is so easy... No play in the pedals. I love Speedplay.

BmanX
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

I was able to be my X2 pedals down to 122g per pair by ordering the WARD ti spindles, aluminum butterfly plates and ti bolts.
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AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

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BRM
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by BRM

BmanX wrote:I was able to be my X2 pedals down to 122g per pair by ordering the WARD ti spindles, aluminum butterfly plates and ti bolts.


Aluminium butterfly plates degrades fast which is not a bright update imo. There is more than weight. Especially when like here its about microgramms . . . . . .

BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

It is all about weight here. Actually it does not degrade as fast as you think and they have lasted years. I was able to build 122g pedals for less than half the price for the NANO's which are almost the same weight.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

BmanX
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by BmanX

Actually thinking about it now, I wonder if anyone makes Ti butterfly plates.
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AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

mariovalentim
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Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:03 am

by mariovalentim

BmanX wrote:Actually thinking about it now, I wonder if anyone makes Ti butterfly plates.


http://www.dulight.fr/product_info.php? ... ts_id=1725

BmanX
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

Well there you go. Ti plates a bit heavier than my aluminum plates and they should hold up better. I might have to get those when my aluminum ones finally die.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

dereksmalls
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Location: New Zealand

by dereksmalls

BmanX wrote:Actually thinking about it now, I wonder if anyone makes Ti butterfly plates.


You can get ti and aluminium bowties from torontocyles.com - in various colours too http://torontocycles.com/Selling/Pedals_Accessories.html They are updated shape as well so now have the same lip that splays do. Their original ones never used to have this.

They also do the ti spindle end bolts and bowtie screws in ti in either raw or black anodizing - which look pretty sweet!

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aarw
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by aarw

As an update to this I've received Ti bowties from Toronto Cycles (excellent service and quick delivery to EU), bringing the overall weight of my Zero's down to 148gm for the pair

That's a standard pair of Chromo Zero's with the spindle replaced with Ward Ind. Ti and now the Ti bowties from Toronto. Cost just under £145 including all delivery charges.

by Weenie


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rainerhq
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Location: Estonia

by rainerhq

May I ask, why not use the Rockbros Ti spindles from ebay? $30 pair; 57g/pair claimed weight.
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