Creaking Praxis BB
Moderator: robbosmans
Highdraw thanks for your help , I haven't got a link but it's a wheels manurfacturing bb30 to outboard shimano conversion . It's similar to praxis but does not expand it just tightens against the face of the bb so you need 2 hollowtech wrenches to do them up .
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These are the ones:
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... ckets.html
The one I have has the angular contact bearings. It's an ok design, but I think the Praxis model is more robust.
@Rick... thanks!!
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... ckets.html
The one I have has the angular contact bearings. It's an ok design, but I think the Praxis model is more robust.
@Rick... thanks!!
"Deserve's got nothing to do with it." William Munny
Just so you know: The Wheels Mfg Installation Instruction starts of with this dire warning:
DO NOT use any brand bearing retaining compounds or epoxies during installation, use of which will void any warranty.
So if you haven't tried just heavy grease I would still try that first and see if it works for you.
If you have tried it, and are confident you gave it a fair shot with full torque, then I believe you and Loctite would be the next logical step.
I keep some heavy marine grease around for things that I just want a grease "barrier" and do not really need "lubrication". For example, I use Phil Wood grease as a lubricating grease on BB bearings, but then smear some marine grease on top of the seals for a barrier. I would try the marine grease on the outside of the BB bore OD if you haven't already tried grease.
Let us know what happens! Good luck!
DO NOT use any brand bearing retaining compounds or epoxies during installation, use of which will void any warranty.
So if you haven't tried just heavy grease I would still try that first and see if it works for you.
If you have tried it, and are confident you gave it a fair shot with full torque, then I believe you and Loctite would be the next logical step.
I keep some heavy marine grease around for things that I just want a grease "barrier" and do not really need "lubrication". For example, I use Phil Wood grease as a lubricating grease on BB bearings, but then smear some marine grease on top of the seals for a barrier. I would try the marine grease on the outside of the BB bore OD if you haven't already tried grease.
Let us know what happens! Good luck!
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The warranty is essentially just a mirage. How much is it really worth? It's not a car or even a home appliance. It's a BB. Just use the Loctite and be done with it.
Robert
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AFAIK grease has never solved really problem pressed BB creaking long term. Only Loctite.
Last edited by rpenmanparker on Wed Oct 28, 2015 2:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Robert
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- Posts: 216
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 1:47 pm
Pretty sure my FSA PF30 bottom bracket is nylon, not acetal. Seems to have worked well with 609 and primer/activator. I know the stuff that leaked out onto the BB shell hardened up nicely. BTW isopropyl alcohol removed the mess quickly and safely even after it hardened.
Robert
A tough call on this guys because grease as Rick proposed as a first effort for this type of BB can work for likely many.
I like the Wheel Mfg design and in fact prefer it in some ways to Praxis. To me, the Praxis design of expanding circumferentially on only one side and having a rubber O-ring laterally to absorb axial compression and in particular to a lock out which is more tolerance sensitive...just isn't as robust as a more solid lateral torqueing of sleeve halves together as with the Wheel Mfg design. The other factor is serviceability. As with Wheel Mfg's other PF30 solution, bearings can be removed and the BB reused and this voids the warranty with Praxis. But as mentioned as well, warranties sometimes are best to be abandoned for cost effectiveness as afterall when the bearings go on a Praxis sleeve, Praxis would prefer their customers to replace the entire BB and not Loctite new bearings for $13 and a bottle of Loctite.
But since Loctite 609 with its low shear strength is pretty easy to get apart...unthreading the Wheel Mfg BB above will dislodge one side...a reverse press out based upon loosening the thread...and the other side can be easily knocked out...getting it apart with Loctite will not be an issue.
So for less fuss, Loctite is probably the best practice for those that don't want to even deal with potential creaking.
For Shimano crank owners, the Wheel Mfg solution is a pretty good for the for the money for those that don't want to use BB30 bearings Loctited to a BB30 bike with adapters.
I like the Wheel Mfg design and in fact prefer it in some ways to Praxis. To me, the Praxis design of expanding circumferentially on only one side and having a rubber O-ring laterally to absorb axial compression and in particular to a lock out which is more tolerance sensitive...just isn't as robust as a more solid lateral torqueing of sleeve halves together as with the Wheel Mfg design. The other factor is serviceability. As with Wheel Mfg's other PF30 solution, bearings can be removed and the BB reused and this voids the warranty with Praxis. But as mentioned as well, warranties sometimes are best to be abandoned for cost effectiveness as afterall when the bearings go on a Praxis sleeve, Praxis would prefer their customers to replace the entire BB and not Loctite new bearings for $13 and a bottle of Loctite.
But since Loctite 609 with its low shear strength is pretty easy to get apart...unthreading the Wheel Mfg BB above will dislodge one side...a reverse press out based upon loosening the thread...and the other side can be easily knocked out...getting it apart with Loctite will not be an issue.
So for less fuss, Loctite is probably the best practice for those that don't want to even deal with potential creaking.
For Shimano crank owners, the Wheel Mfg solution is a pretty good for the for the money for those that don't want to use BB30 bearings Loctited to a BB30 bike with adapters.
Last edited by highdraw on Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
treetrees wrote:Highdraw you have just answered my next question on whether I would be able to remove the the bb after its been loctited in .
Figured that maybe the elephant in the room and may scare off some considering it and why I mentioned it. You see, when you unthread the two halves tt, one side has to give...even if one side stays Loctited firm because lateral force created by unthreading will exceed the shear strength bond of the Loctite which is deliberately formulated for serviceability aka low adhesion in shear. Once one side gets pushed out by unthreading...take a wood dowel and hammer and tap out the other side thru the BB shell just like you would tap out BB30 bearings. Easy peasey brother.
rpenmanparker wrote:The warranty is essentially just a mirage. How much is it really worth? It's not a car or even a home appliance. It's a BB. Just use the Loctite and be done with it.
Agree
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