FM 169 (R8) Hongfu - 2016 frame

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nherment
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:24 pm
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by nherment

xaznperswaesonx wrote:When you installed the lower headtube bearing ... was it a tight fit to where you need to use some kind of press tool or did was it doable by hand?


No I did not need to use a press. The headset fit the fork/frame like a glove. Also the BB contact surface with the frame is angled (about 45 degrees) so I'm not sure it's actually possible to pressfit them. They just come into contact and from what I understood, the pressure should be maintained by the top cap/head-tube compressor.

As I was unfamiliar with the headset and fork combinations, I also researched for quite some time which headset would work for that frame.
By looking at the specs, I saw that the forks & BB are built with very precise specs, the BB being a fraction of a millimeter larger than the fork & smaller than the frame, supposedly so that they fit without press.

Note that I have this headset: http://bbbcycling.com/proinfo3.php?N=TA ... 11//BHP-46

xaznperswaesonx
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat May 21, 2016 11:51 pm

by xaznperswaesonx

Thanks for the info. The headsets i got was bought from HongFu at the same time with the frame.

The headset i got were the correct one. I measured the bearing to be the right size. The lower head tube on both frame were 51.4mm after some light sanding to make it smooth. The 1.5 inch bearing are soec'd to 51.8mm. So i guess i got some not so great frame

by Weenie


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nherment
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:24 pm
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by nherment

Finally wrapped up the cockpit. I had to wait and make sure I had the right stem & handlebar height:

Image

I put some random thoughts (mostly what I said earlier on the thread) and more pictures here: https://raced.io/building-a-chinese-aero-road-bike/

Next up is a powermeter (power2max) and maybe some eeBrakes because the Ultegra direct mounts are a PITA when changing wheelset (different rim widths).

Tim01
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2016 9:27 am

by Tim01

Hi,

I'm intreseted in the carbon frame FM169, also known as the R8 Avenger. But I was wondering if you could help me out with the following:

1. My length is 1.85cm. Nancy Huang of Hongfu-bikes advised me the frame size 56. What frame size do you advise. The 56 or 58?
2. Is it right that this frame is only available with a bottom bracket type BB86 (86,5*41)? Or does someone has this frame with an other bottom bracket type, like BSA or other?
3. What size/type of headset will fit on this frame?

Thanks and regards,

Tim

nherment
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:24 pm
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by nherment

Hi Tim,

1. I'm 1.85m as well (88mm inseam) and I am very happy with the 56cm frame.

Stem is a 90mm slammed as low as posisble and handlebars have +2cm of reach compared to most handlebars; 3T aeronova team, which reach is 104mm while most drop bars have about 80mm of reach.
That means a stem equivalent of 110mm.

As is, the reach on the bike is a bit short for me while in the drops and I might add 1 or 2cm in the future along with a saddle that allows for better hip rotation.
In that case, the regular handlebar equivalent would become 130mm of stem. That's getting quite long. So if you have a long upper body, the 58 frame might be a better choice.

In summary, for me 56cm allows for a long enough reach.

2. I never saw an option for anything but BB86. That should fit most cranks, including ones that would normally require a BSA BB.

3. You will need what is called an integrated headset, with the upper bearing being 1-1/8" diameter, while the bottom is 1.5". Here is the one I have: https://www.merlincycles.com/bbb-bhp-46 ... 68069.html
There are more expensive and some cheaper headsets that probably do the job just as well, it's worth shopping around.
I also used BBB's compressor plug: https://www.merlincycles.com/bbb-bap-03 ... 62723.html but would recommend an alternative (Carbon TI) because that one is quite heavy weight (works really well though).

xaznperswaesonx
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat May 21, 2016 11:51 pm

by xaznperswaesonx

Image
Hongfu FM 169 (R8 Avenger) UD Matte
47 cm
Full Ultegra 6800 | 11-28 | 165mm Crank
90mm Ritchey WCS 220 Stem
40cm Ritchey WCS II Bar
Specialized Power Expert saddle
SRAM Bar tape & Chain Spotter
K-Edge Garmin Mount
Profile Design Striker Carbon aero Bar
Stock Trek Emonda S6 Wheel with 25mm Maxxis Refuse tire.

Currently 19.5 lbs

If I swap to a new set of wheels and take out the aero clip on bar .. should be 16.5 lbs. Wheels and clip on bar are porkers.

If you plan to buy the frame. I also recommend to pick up the Shimano CB-90 inline quick release brake cable adjuster for the rear brakes and a inline barrel adjuster for the front derailleur

Tim01
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2016 9:27 am

by Tim01

nherment wrote:Hi Tim,

1. I'm 1.85m as well (88mm inseam) and I am very happy with the 56cm frame.

Stem is a 90mm slammed as low as posisble and handlebars have +2cm of reach compared to most handlebars; 3T aeronova team, which reach is 104mm while most drop bars have about 80mm of reach.
That means a stem equivalent of 110mm.

As is, the reach on the bike is a bit short for me while in the drops and I might add 1 or 2cm in the future along with a saddle that allows for better hip rotation.
In that case, the regular handlebar equivalent would become 130mm of stem. That's getting quite long. So if you have a long upper body, the 58 frame might be a better choice.

In summary, for me 56cm allows for a long enough reach.

2. I never saw an option for anything but BB86. That should fit most cranks, including ones that would normally require a BSA BB.

3. You will need what is called an integrated headset, with the upper bearing being 1-1/8" diameter, while the bottom is 1.5". Here is the one I have: https://www.merlincycles.com/bbb-bhp-46 ... 68069.html
There are more expensive and some cheaper headsets that probably do the job just as well, it's worth shopping around.
I also used BBB's compressor plug: https://www.merlincycles.com/bbb-bap-03 ... 62723.html but would recommend an alternative (Carbon TI) because that one is quite heavy weight (works really well though).



Thanks for your response. This is very helpful.
Regards, Tim

Hexsense
Posts: 3270
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am
Location: USA

by Hexsense

as much as i like the design and look,
it's just a deal breaker for me with their BB option only support BB86. I like my SRAM RED BB30 167.5mm crank and i won't change it.(heck i thought about upgrading to sram quarq version which support longer axle that may be able to use on other BB other than BB30/PF30. But SRAM also drop the offer in 167.5 length so i can't get it in the length i like either.) So any frame without option of PF30 or BB30 is no go for me. well unfortunately i might have to look at another similar frame with BB30 option (like Workswell WCB-R-081) i don't know why Hongfu is so limited in BB option. :noidea:

nherment
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:24 pm
Contact:

by nherment

Hexsense wrote:as much as i like the design and look,
it's just a deal breaker for me with their BB option only support BB86. I like my SRAM RED BB30 167.5mm crank and i won't change it.(heck i thought about upgrading to sram quarq version which support longer axle that may be able to use on other BB other than BB30/PF30. But SRAM also drop the offer in 167.5 length so i can't get it in the length i like either.) So any frame without option of PF30 or BB30 is no go for me. well unfortunately i might have to look at another similar frame with BB30 option (like Workswell WCB-R-081) i don't know why Hongfu is so limited in BB option.


uh, isn't the SRAM RED spindle long enough to fit in a BB86 ?
Regardless, the Workswell R81 looks as good if not better than the R8.

As a side note, I've been having some trouble with the saddle clamp on the FM169. Even overly tight (compared to torque specs) the saddle still gets bumped out of place every 10 rides or so.
It happens either when I hit a <strong> bump on the road while I don't expect it or when I my foot slips from the pedal when re-clipping and my bum hits the forward part of the saddle.

Hexsense
Posts: 3270
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am
Location: USA

by Hexsense

nherment wrote:
uh, isn't the SRAM RED spindle long enough to fit in a BB86 ?

nope, only Force,Rival,Sram RED Quarq BB30. and every GXP crankset (including RED GXP) have long axle.
The regular REDs (non quarq, but either Exogram or not) are the only true BB30 cranks from SRAM. Others have 30mm diameter but longer spindle.
nherment wrote:Regardless, the Workswell R81 looks as good if not better than the R8.

but i like black/red color paint of the R8 :lol:
nherment wrote:As a side note, I've been having some trouble with the saddle clamp on the FM169. Even overly tight (compared to torque specs) the saddle still gets bumped out of place every 10 rides or so.
It happens either when I hit a <strong> bump on the road while I don't expect it or when I my foot slips from the pedal when re-clipping and my bum hits the forward part of the saddle.

did you try carbon paste on the saddle rail? i use it even on Ti rail and it helps.

nherment
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:24 pm
Contact:

by nherment

Hexsense wrote:
nherment wrote:As a side note, I've been having some trouble with the saddle clamp on the FM169. Even overly tight (compared to torque specs) the saddle still gets bumped out of place every 10 rides or so.
It happens either when I hit a <strong> bump on the road while I don't expect it or when I my foot slips from the pedal when re-clipping and my bum hits the forward part of the saddle.

did you try carbon paste on the saddle rail? i use it even on Ti rail and it helps.


Well, the rails are fine. The problem is with the rotating assembly that expands inside the seat post and is supposed to hold everything in place with compression. It sometime rotates when I inadvertently bump into it.

SFTifoso
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2016 4:43 am

by SFTifoso

nherment wrote:
Hexsense wrote:
nherment wrote:As a side note, I've been having some trouble with the saddle clamp on the FM169. Even overly tight (compared to torque specs) the saddle still gets bumped out of place every 10 rides or so.
It happens either when I hit a <strong> bump on the road while I don't expect it or when I my foot slips from the pedal when re-clipping and my bum hits the forward part of the saddle.

did you try carbon paste on the saddle rail? i use it even on Ti rail and it helps.


Well, the rails are fine. The problem is with the rotating assembly that expands inside the seat post and is supposed to hold everything in place with compression. It sometime rotates when I inadvertently bump into it.


Is the seatpost shape a copy of another brand name seatpost? The saddle clamp looks unique but will other seatpost fit this frame? Maybe a Ridley aero seatpost, but can't confirm.

bkw
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:04 pm

by bkw

Has anyone fitted a Shimano Di2 kit with internal battery into one of these yet? Curious if it comes with an adapter in the seatpost to hold the battery, or if the battery even fits inside of it.

SL06
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:29 pm

by SL06

SFTifoso wrote:
nherment wrote:
Hexsense wrote:
nherment wrote:As a side note, I've been having some trouble with the saddle clamp on the FM169. Even overly tight (compared to torque specs) the saddle still gets bumped out of place every 10 rides or so.
It happens either when I hit a <strong> bump on the road while I don't expect it or when I my foot slips from the pedal when re-clipping and my bum hits the forward part of the saddle.

did you try carbon paste on the saddle rail? i use it even on Ti rail and it helps.


Well, the rails are fine. The problem is with the rotating assembly that expands inside the seat post and is supposed to hold everything in place with compression. It sometime rotates when I inadvertently bump into it.


Is the seatpost shape a copy of another brand name seatpost? The saddle clamp looks unique but will other seatpost fit this frame? Maybe a Ridley aero seatpost, but can't confirm.


I dont know about that specific frame and seat post. I had problem with my carbon seatpost witch had to much play in my chinese frame and would not hold in place. I end up painting the seat post with several coat of paint until it fit snug (tight) in the seat tube. The problem was then solved. I used epoxy spray paint because its get very hard once dry. I later did another set post for a friend with mat black paint for stove because its also get hard and will dry very quickly. You can also use a hot hair drier to accelerate the process.

Good luck...

pickem
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon May 16, 2016 12:14 pm

by pickem

aminier wrote:I won't post pics because mine is black as well. About the ride. I though initially the front end would be whippy, but its actually really solid. The FM169 is my 1st china bike and I'll say its sadly, its just as stiff overall as my Cervelo S5. That may be due to using T800 carbon. My only cirtique of the bike would be the seat mounting hardware. I could totally see it failing at some point. Since it's pretty similar to the Merida react and canyon areoroad one might be able to use their post vrs the Hongfu stock one. All in all a really good frame for under 1K USD

Also, 25c clinchers on HED Ardennes plus rims measure out to 28c and they fit just fine....



The problem isn't so much with the seat post itself; it's with the apparatus which holds the seat post in place. There's a nut which sits inside a contained carbon fiber area of the frame which presumably is supposed to contain the nut to allow a screw to be screwed further into the nut to tighten the seat post retention apparatus. And while the screw is threaded into the nut, the nut can rotate (and isn't fixed) inside the carbon fiber area so what has ended up happening is that the carbon has been slowly whittled away as the nut rotates in the carbon fiber area which means it becomes impossible to tighten or loosen the screw, and, therefore, it has become impossible to remove the seatpost.

by Weenie


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