SRAM BB30 Bearing Adjuster Part 28

[Valbrona]

Is this the correct order of assembly? Or should the preload adjuster go next to the NDS crank arm with the two separated by the thin steel washer?



Thanks.

[Rick]

It may depend on the width of your BB and tolerances, but mine did not need the black spacer.
Mine is true BB30, I see there is a PF 30 BB visible in your picture. ?

Also, it made more sense to me to put the "more flattened" side of the lock-ring assembly facing (against) the BB30 bearing covers.

[eric]

Looks like you have nearly run out of threads on the adjuster. So try putting the thin steel washer on the other side. That would also make the preload adjuster easier to get to.

[sungod]

that's an old image from years ago, so probably not the op's bike

it shows the normal installation positioning where a spacer is used, also the orientation of the adjuster is as sram ship it

between the adjuster and bearing shield my cranks have a wavy washer, which made it easier to see when it was adjusted correctly (when the waves were just a smidge away from being flattened) with no wavy washer you need to do it by feel

if you've got a relatively large gap, try reducing it with the plastic shims (if supplied) to leave as much thread as possible in the adjuster

don't over-loosen the screw on the adjuster, it tends to allow the threads to 'skip', once set, do not overtighten it either

[bikerjulio]

In the earlier thread by OP on the same subject someone helpfully posted the instructions https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/a-bgU3f_4TDhVqvQNNpK8bFLKeq-BSJHkd821a9VTNE/mtime:1416870608/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-6115-012-000_rev_d_road_cranksets_1.pdf

[Valbrona]

In the earlier thread by OP on the same subject someone helpfully posted the instructions

Those instructions do not say how the preload collar should be installed.

My brand new WIDE AXLE crankset in an unopened box actually came with the preload collar installed the wrong way around.

Now I am wondering whether it should go right up against the crank arm, or whether the ~5mm spacer should go right up against the crank arm as per the above picture (not my picture). Note that my WIDE AXLE crankset requires the use of both a ~5mm and a 2.5mm spacer on the NDS. The 2.5mm spacer is installed next to the bearing shield.

If the wombat it the factory couldn't manage to put the preload collar on the axle the right way around I image they were completely clueless as to correct assembly.

[deek]

Is your adjuster black or gray? One goes one way and other is the opposite. Not sure why they changed it.

Just leave it on the way it came from the factory. I think you are overthinking this.

Edit: There should also be no thin steel washer anywhere.

[Rick]

Think of it this way:
On the drive side, the only reason for a spacer would be to control correct chain line. So use whichever gives you that.
Then "seat" it against the bearing by tapping.

On the Non-drive side, you want to slide the locking collar up against the the bearing cover, and then use the threads to turn it to a light preload, taking up all extra play across the width of the bearings. Then lock it down onto the spindle using the locking screw. I think the "flat" side of the locking collar should be against the bearing cover for a more "definite" bearing surface. Mine has been trouble-free all season so far this way.

The spacer is really not needed except for cosmetic reasons. If there is enough room, use it, but everything will stay in place and function without it.

One caveat: I am extrapolating what I think is going on here from BB30. If it is not BB30, I might be wrong. My BB width is 68 mm, so there is no room for any extra spacers; just a small bit of extra length to account for tolerances that is taken up by adjusting the collar.