chain lube

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Jingeon
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2016 3:08 pm

by Jingeon

Muc-off c3 ceramic lube is the best to me

by Weenie


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fignonsbarber
Posts: 146
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:24 pm

by fignonsbarber

Been very happy with Rock and Roll Gold for the past couple years. Really cleans the chain.

uraqt
Posts: 1108
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:53 am

by uraqt

I have all the needs to move to wax as a chain lube in my Amazon wish list and I 98% that I am going to go that way..

However I am looking for reason not to use wax... beside the cost and the time anybody know of any other negatives?

C

velomane
Posts: 243
Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2004 1:44 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

by velomane

uraqt,

Are you referring to a specific product? If so, which one? Link please. I ask because I'm rethinking my chain lube situation. Last time I used a waxy product (years ago) the jockey wheels would gum up within an hour of heading out the door.


eric01
Posts: 909
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:06 am

by eric01

That's an awful lot of work to save a couple watts in the drive train. Almost makes me reconsider ceramic pulleys! almost...
Specialized Tarmac Sworks SL6, Moots Compact, Carl Strong Titanium


uraqt
Posts: 1108
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:53 am

by uraqt

@eric01

It's not about the watts it's about keeping the chain clean and better lubrication... Most of what I have read is that wax is the best at that.

The watts saving has just brought wax lube back in to vogue, and I am always looking for a better way do something...


C

User avatar
canoas
Posts: 94
Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2010 2:37 pm
Location: Surrey, UK

by canoas

TheKaiser wrote:
canoas wrote:
nathanong87 wrote:
canoas wrote:Phil Wood Tenacious oil.....been using since early 90's


as chain lube?!?! wut. isn't this for bearings and pivots


its a wet lube you could say. I chose to run on my chains and other parts during the whole year. Jockey Wheels work excellent with Tenacious. Put it on the chain and it stays on! Used @races over almost 3 decades. Chains last a long time if lubed with Tenacious. I've never changed, only if my LBS is out of stock then I'll buy something else! You don't need to oil as much as the old days as there's less metal-to-metal contact.


Out of curiosity, do you regularly scrub/jetwash/degrease or otherwise clean your chain, or does a simple wipe down before/after relubing do the trick? I know protour mechanics will often use actual bearing grease on chains but they are cleaning/degreasing with diesel fuel and jet washes on a near daily basis so a lube's propensity to accumulate grime is not really a concern, but most of us will use a thinner lube in order to minimize any need for that.

Also, what did you mean about less "metal-to-metal" contact than in the old days? Did you mean narrower chain width used for 11spd has less surface area or what?

Thank you in advance for the clarification. :)


On my race bike I degrease after most rides. What I mean by Metal contact is that most of the components these days are carbon or non metallic. I remember when starting in 1986, I would watch the old guys lube the bike, much more was required, in fact I still have an old Italian magazine in late 80's showing where to lube your bike. They oil on front mech, rear mech, jockey wheels, front and rear brake and cassette. I could probably scan it for you and post for you to have a look at.

TheKaiser
Posts: 653
Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:29 pm

by TheKaiser

canoas wrote:On my race bike I degrease after most rides. What I mean by Metal contact is that most of the components these days are carbon or non metallic. I remember when starting in 1986, I would watch the old guys lube the bike, much more was required, in fact I still have an old Italian magazine in late 80's showing where to lube your bike. They oil on front mech, rear mech, jockey wheels, front and rear brake and cassette. I could probably scan it for you and post for you to have a look at.


Oh, now I see what you meant. I was thinking in strictly chain terms before, and they seem to have just as much metal as always. No need to scan the mag, I've seen the suggestions too, giving a drop of lube to all pivot points etc...

With Phil Wood Tenacious, what are you using as a degreaser? That stuff is tough!

Thank you for the elaboration BTW.

CTracer
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 10:07 pm

by CTracer

I have tried everything. For me Rock&Roll is the best for most conditions unless you are riding in the rain/wet. In that case a wet lube (Muc Off is nice) is the way to go since you will be washing your bike right after the ride. A wet lube in the dry just results in a dirty, jet black chain after 1 ride. Wax is not really worth the trouble when R&R comes very close as far as performance (see Friction Facts) with a lot less hassle. I tried Phil's Tenacious Oil twice. I both cases it resulted in the loudest drivetrain I have ever had. Everything on the road stuck to the chain and it was literally a grind until I washed it off. YRMV.

biki
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:37 am
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada

by biki

WD40 wet lasts the longest (upwards of 1000km between applications) but runs a little dirty. This is my favourite for long brevets.

Purple Extreme lasts one third as long but runs a bit cleaner. I use it on short- to medium-length brevets. It's my favourite for everyday use, touring, mountain biking.

Both are fairly durable in muck and do not attract dust badly in the dry.

Always avoid biodegradeable lubes, as they leave a hard, varnish-like coating on your frame and drivetrain parts which is not removeable with even some nasty solvents.

I've never tried that Shimano PTFE stuff, looks interesting and I will be ordering immediately to try it.
Last edited by biki on Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

russianbear
Posts: 683
Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:40 am

by russianbear

uraqt wrote:@eric01

It's not about the watts it's about keeping the chain clean and better lubrication... Most of what I have read is that wax is the best at that.

The watts saving has just brought wax lube back in to vogue, and I am always looking for a better way do something...


C


Try the Wendwax I mentioned earlier. Comes in a deodorant style applicator and keeps the chain very clean. Not great for any sort of wet conditions of course. Pretty much have to reapply after getting rained on. Not really a problem where I live.

Zigmeister
Posts: 938
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm

by Zigmeister

Rock and Roll Gold sounds a lot like Pro Link lube.

It doesn't last real long, but does a good job and cleaning/lubing all at once, and keeping the chain cleaner for longer.

I usually do a good acetone/rag wipe down every 2 weeks. About 300mi of riding for me or more. Then, apply lube generously, then wipe chain/cogs/chain rings off real well and RD pulleys. It usually stays pretty clean for awhile with Pro Link, and the chain/rag are almost entirely clean after the wipe off of excess lube.

I also have Dumonde Tech's bike chain lube. The dark blue. It really makes the drive train whisper quiet, shifting if smooth as anything. One big downside, it picks up dirt like crazy. They say just keep wiping it off/do a basic clean of the chain and don't lube it again until it starts to make noise, but that dirty drive train/chain/cogs/rings etc...and my OCD...no way. I've kind of been doing 3 pro link lubes, then maybe a Dumonde Tech, just to use it up and feel I haven't wasted my money, but it gets so dirty, honestly, I'm about to toss it or give it away.

They claim the Dumonde Tech keeps the drive train cleaner longer...I haven't found that to be the case. But it is real hard to get off, even after an every 3 month park tool cleaner with paint thinner treatment, sill greasy somewhat.

http://dumondetech.com/portfolio/bicycl ... l-formula/

Think that Rock/Roll Gold sounds like a good all around solution and product

Also, I have finish line wax, sometimes if you throw that on top of the lube, it helps keep the chain cleaner longer as well I found. Use Finish Line dry for my speedplay cleats, nothing more.

by Weenie


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TheKaiser
Posts: 653
Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:29 pm

by TheKaiser

Zigmeister wrote:I also have Dumonde Tech's bike chain lube. The dark blue. It really makes the drive train whisper quiet, shifting if smooth as anything. One big downside, it picks up dirt like crazy. They say just keep wiping it off/do a basic clean of the chain and don't lube it again until it starts to make noise, but that dirty drive train/chain/cogs/rings etc...and my OCD...no way. I've kind of been doing 3 pro link lubes, then maybe a Dumonde Tech, just to use it up and feel I haven't wasted my money, but it gets so dirty, honestly, I'm about to toss it or give it away.

They claim the Dumonde Tech keeps the drive train cleaner longer...I haven't found that to be the case. But it is real hard to get off, even after an every 3 month park tool cleaner with paint thinner treatment, sill greasy somewhat.

http://dumondetech.com/portfolio/bicycl ... l-formula/


I'm not arguing with your experience but isn't Dumonde Tech the stuff that is supposed to harden into a plastic like substance, essentially creating thin plastic bushings on your chain contact surfaces? I thought that was their pitch, and I had a small sample bottle that I messed about with and it seemed to really harden up, which I why I find your description of it being greasy to be discordant.

Have you ever tried dripping a bit on the workbench and letting it set for a while to see what it does? You can hit it with a hairdryer if you are in a rush. I find that to be a good test to verify the lube manufacturers claims as to the "dryness" of the cured lube.

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