Lightweight Road Frame with removable FD hanger.

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BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

I am toying with the idea of building up a 1 X 10 build to see how light I can do this. I will take a lot of heat for my next comment but I want to do this as least expensive as possible so I will most likely buy a no name brand carbon frame and forks. I will most likely run a BSA BB so that I can use my old FSA cranks which have a removable spider. I already have a 32t spiderless chainring for that crankset and will get Fybre-Lyte to make me a new 48t spiderless chainring as well. This way I can use the same build for hill climb set up or road riding. I can change out the rear cassette as needed.

I have an old pair of Easton EC90 26.0 Equipe handlebars and Syntace F99 stem which are a pretty light set up.
Light weight seat post and Berk saddle or a Berk post/saddle combo.
I will gut the left brake lever or just buy a stripped version.
KMC X10sl chainring.
Speedplay pedals tuned.
I believe that I have some extra brakes kicking around which will be either be EE brakes or Zero Gravity.
Most likely I will use an old pair of American Classic Sprint 350 wheels at 1300 grams.

Still have to sort out shifters and derailleurs but I would like this to be in as light as possible while spending as little as possible.

If I decided to go with a BB30 bottom bracket, is there an adaptor to run BSA? I want options if possible as I have a pair of Lightning cranks that I might use later.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

by Weenie


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rms13
Posts: 114
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:05 pm

by rms13

There are many adapters to run non BB30 cranks in a BB30 frame. This is generally considered the best:

http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/

In the past I've used these with no issues, but only because I bought a frame that already had BB30 bearings pressed in and they had plenty of life left

http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... pters.html


If you have budget and can wait a while you can consider the new SRAM 1x11 groups

https://www.sram.com/sram/road/family/sram-force-1

BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

I can wait for 1 X 11 sram force for sure as the funds are not an issue but I want to keep it 1 X 10 as I have the wheels, shifters and such already.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

ghisallo2003
Posts: 742
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:10 pm

by ghisallo2003

How about a Giant TCR alloy (preferably anodised). Simple, light cheap.

BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

I have one of those already but it is now my wife's bike. It was the older TCR at 1000g BUT I want to be in the sub 900g range and I can't take my old frame back now. She will kill me.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

djcharlou
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:59 pm

by djcharlou

Hi,

You don't "need" the new Sram Force1 rear der absolutely, it work fine with a normal Force 10s.
with a sram chainring.

Image

My bike to illustrate my exemple

BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

Can you please explain what you did with your brake levers. Did you gut the left or did you just buy a non shifter version. Also what cassette are you running on the back.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

rms13
Posts: 114
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:05 pm

by rms13

djcharlou wrote:Hi,

You don't "need" the new Sram Force1 rear der absolutely, it work fine with a normal Force 10s.
with a sram chainring.

Image

My bike to illustrate my exemple


Are you running cx chainring up front?

Definitely possible to do 1x without new group. The new group lets you run up to a 42t cassette I believe so you have a wider range.

BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

Most of my riding can be done in the 50t front chainring so I would most likely just go with a 46t front ring and an 11/28 back so that I could use standard lighter RD. This would be very close to me running my 50/36 front and an 12/23 rear which should be more than fine. Not ideal for sure but a fun project for sure.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

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53x12
Posts: 3708
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:02 am
Location: On the bike

by 53x12

How about the 2016 Fuji SL? Should be <1,000g for the frameset for a decent price.
"Marginal gains are the only gains when all that's left to gain is in the margins."

BmanX
Posts: 3841
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm

by BmanX

I am sure that will be going for more than $700 complete and shipped. I love the weight however on the new Fuji SL frame.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades

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53x12
Posts: 3708
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:02 am
Location: On the bike

by 53x12

Didn't see any mention of a price budget. Just least as expensive.

Search ebay. Find an old R3 or Addict. Strip the paint off. Consider one of those Hongfu frames. If you are looking to go a few hundred dollars for the frameset, you will probably have to go used. If aluminum is ok, look at a CAAD in your price range.
"Marginal gains are the only gains when all that's left to gain is in the margins."

djcharlou
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:59 pm

by djcharlou

For the left lever it's a Sram Force CX1, so without the shifting, only brake. The right lever is a Rival22, not much differences in feeling vs the carbon lever of the Force, but half the price without much weight gain.
I'm running a 44t CX1 chainring with a PG-1070 cassette 11-32.
For the 42t cog on the cassette you have to get a 1x rear der (rival or force) in long cage version and get a specific wheel hub, too much weight I think

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
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