Weight Weenies

Make sure preload on your hub bearings is right. Grab the top of the wheel and try to move it sideways. If you get movement and knocking its too loose. Zipp hubs usually need preload adjustment after a few rides initially to get it right.

432r wrote:I only have 3.5mm clearance (tyre to frame at seat stay)

Just curious: what frame?


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Qman wrote: However, the OP didn't say anything about the axle slipping in the dropouts, so that means the skewers are doing their job. The axle isn't slipping in the dropouts so getting a stiffer skewer won't help with the wheel rub..

Most modern bikes have vertical dropouts, so even if the skewer were to stretch a little, the wheel wouldn't slip.

I don't claim this is the final answer; just pointing out that less stiff skewers can work on modern bikes only because the design has changed.
One thing is for sure: it would be very easy to try an old steel skewer with steel cam mechanism and see how it influences the symptoms.

My KCNC skewers didnt work well at all with the steel frame i built with horizontal dropouts, they would keep slipping. Thats not flex thats just clamping power. A pair of the Paul components QR fix that issue. Larger surface area to clamp and they have a internal cam. I would bring it to a trusted LBS or wheelbuilder and check the tension on the wheels.

Fyi: It's a ridley noah pro 2013 frameset, clearance is tight. I think I need to get spoke tension checked.

Is it worth getting the park tools tension tool?
Maybe longer them this might be of value (do it myself)

The play is probably those awesome Zipp hubs.

Counteintuitively, spoke tension does NOT affect stiffness unless there are spokes that are completely untensioned.

If that's true why tension at all? I'm a noob but that doesn't seem right, after all we are dealing with only a few mm in total movement here?!?


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Spokes need to be tensioned "enough" that they never go slack when subjected to the loads of cornering and random bumps and vibrations. You are always "hanging" from the upper spokes. Any more tension than "enough" does not stiffen the wheel. So if the spokes aren't going to zero tension (or compression) then more tension won't make it stiffer.
There is probably some room for controversy over what "enough" actually means. When I build my own wheels I have significantly less tension than most other wheels and they seem to last a long time and function well.

I had asked about tires earlier but didn't get a response.
The other possibility is that your tires are too wide for your frame. All wheels flex a little, and as you get bigger tires you will reach a limit where the wheel may just clear the frame when spun, but riding deflects them enough to contact the frame.
So, what size are your tires, and does anyone know the largest tire that you can use with a 2013 Ridley Noah Pro?

Qman, here it is:

432r wrote:You guys have been helpful.
It's a 24 spoke 2014 404 FC. With zipp stainless steel skewers. I only have 3.5mm clearance (tyre to frame at seat stay) and I had rubbing with 23mm gp4000s. So I moved to 22mm attacks.
I Think it will still rub (just) and so I wanted to look to other causes too (such as skewers) to see what else it could be.


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F45 wrote:The play is probably those awesome Zipp hubs.

My Zipp 404 move a bit no matter what skewers I use, if you do a search I think you will see its a Zipp wheel thing, not a skewer issue.

Qman, here it is:

Thanks! I completely missed it!

Those are not particularly wide tires. Either there's a problem with the frame, or the wheels.
As mentioned previously, check the hubs for play, and check the spoke tension.

Swap wheels with someone else and see if you still have the problem.

Skewers don't flex. They are clamped or the wheel move this is not flex. Deep rims can cause more brake rub than shallower rims. You can see this by comparing a shallow box section rim and a deep wheel which is much stiffer. Under the same side load the deep wheel moves just as much or even more than the shallow wheel compared my 32h mavics gel 280's which are very flex to my 50mm carbon clincher which are not flex. Surprised that the movement at the rim of the flex mavics is just the same.
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15505311.html goes into this in more detail. This is the reason why I use campagnolo single pivot calipers on my race bike as I can set the pads further away from the rim and still get decent lever feel to compensate for the "flex" which is not flex in the way most people think of it. It the depth of the rim.

I was on 23mm gp4000s - they rub.
Have now fit attack 22mm to test.
My clearance on the 22mm is 3.5mm to frame or thereabouts.
With that in mind what is the 'narrowest' 23mm clincher out there? There are not many 22mm options other than attack.


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