New Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Tires

[ClydesdaleChris]

So, what width and height can I expect with a 28mm mounted on a 17c rim? Also what sealant seems to be the best for these tyres? Thoughts?

[TobinHatesYou]

So, what width and height can I expect with a 28mm mounted on a 17c rim? Also what sealant seems to be the best for these tyres? Thoughts?

Slightly over 30mm. And the answer to "what sealant" is always Orange Seal.

[ClydesdaleChris]

So, what width and height can I expect with a 28mm mounted on a 17c rim? Also what sealant seems to be the best for these tyres? Thoughts?

Slightly over 30mm. And the answer to "what sealant" is always Orange Seal.

You stalkin’ me?

Thanks. Probs a bit big for the Emonda. Having rubbing issues with the “28mm” GP4000. They’re 31mm but stupid-tall. Going to try tubeless on the Zero comp’s. So will try 25’s.

Cheers!

[Mr.Gib]

Just back from a maiden ride on Schwalbe Pro One 28 mm. I am super impressed with the traction and they feel very fast.

I plan to use these as a winter tire for the puncture protection of the tubeless setup (lots of Orange Seal Endurance in there). However I suspect due to the soft, sticky rubber that these may cut up badly. I have seen some comments that they are susceptible to cuts. Typical Pacific Northwest, so roads are often wet with grit at the edges during the winter. Tiny bits of glass very occasionally (like most places). Continental GP 4000 do alright here in the winter, high end Vittoria not so much.

Question: Anybody running Pro Ones in such conditions? Do they hold up? I would love a little more data before I buy a bunch of tires.

[Calnago]

Mr. Gib, can’t help you on experiences with the Schwalbe One’s but I see you’ve filled them up with Orange Seal Endurance. Just wondering if, like me, you saw the “Endurance” moniker and figured “well ok then, this must be even better than regular non-Endurance formula”. I discovered that the regular formula is actually the better of the two for actually sealing a puncture. The Endurance stuff simply lasts longer inside your tire. Since I only use it on tubulars, and even then, only if I puncture, the “regular” version is what I now use (I’ve tried both), as I want the best sealing possible.
And I hear you about the Vittorias... they cut up when you look at them sideways. Conti Comps are my favorite wet weather tire, but only available in tubular form.

[blueturtle]

Don't hold your breath.Just got back from a ride with my club.One of the riders was running with Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tyres.Guess what ,puncture in both tyres,ended up loaning a spare innertube to get him home.Admittedly he was not using any sealant.It proves to me that all tyres have their limitations and that whatever tyre you use it is just a matter of luck if you make it home without a puncture.

[Mr.Gib]

...I see you’ve filled them up with Orange Seal Endurance. Just wondering if, like me, you saw the “Endurance” moniker and figured “well ok then, this must be even better than regular non-Endurance formula”. I discovered that the regular formula is actually the better of the two for actually sealing a puncture. The Endurance stuff simply lasts longer inside your tire. Since I only use it on tubulars, and even then, only if I puncture, the “regular” version is what I now use (I’ve tried both), as I want the best sealing possible.

Yes I am aware of the difference - the regular version can seal a larger hole. One issue with tubeless that some overlook is the limited life of sealant. With the regular Orange Seal the life can be as short as 1 month. That means frequent refills. I gambled that the endurance was good enough for the glass prick type punctures that I get most often. I will still have to top up every 2 months according to the company.

Don't hold your breath.Just got back from a ride with my club.One of the riders was running with Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tyres.Guess what ,puncture in both tyres,ended up loaning a spare innertube to get him home. Admittedly he was not using any sealant.

Not sure what the point is of going tubeless and not using sealant. All the trouble without the key benefit.

[ms6073]

Since I only use it on tubulars, and even then, only if I puncture, the “regular” version is what I now use

Several years ago I used the original Orange Seal in all of my FMB Cyclocross tubulars and it worked great, problem came when CX season was over and the racing tubulars got hung up for the off-season, and while I tried to drain as much as I could, the remaining sealant dried out, leaving a big slug of latex goop.

[Calnago]

Yes, that’s the trouble with sealant in tubulars, especially with latex tubes that tend to lose air quickly. I carry a little sealant with me for flat repair on the road but don’t use it as a preventative measure. When/if I do puncture then usually just about 10-15ml is all i need to seal it up. Saves the trouble of putting on a spare tubular. And then for those tires that are getting a little “tired” but have not had any punctures, I can still use them as spares when I replace them, as long as they don’t have sealant in them. So yes, I can see scenarios for both variants of the sealant I guess, but when I did use the Endurance formula it just didn’t seem to seal as well, but I certainly can’t claim to have enough samples to make a general statement one way or another as to whether it was the type of sealant or just luck of the draw. Probably the Endurance formula is best for Tubeless where you don’t want to have to “top up” too often, and the regular formula best for tubulars as a flat fix where you want the best sealant properties for that one time, especially with a high pressure road tire.

[bm0p700f]

your friend using tubeless tyres without sealant is a fool. tubeless tyres need sealant even the good ones. he should also be carry two size of worms. I carry 1.5mm woirms and 3.5mm worms and applicator, a 60ml bottle of sealant and valve core remover. Of course I have a hand pump as well.

If you ride clinchers without an inner tube you are a fool. Ride tubeless without sealant and the basics, you are again a fool and should not be on a club run.

[romalor]

I suggest people who speaks about tubeless ready tires used without sealant
stay silent ...

[xterrastrial]

your friend using tubeless tyres without sealant is a fool. tubeless tyres need sealant even the good ones. he should also be carry two size of worms. I carry 1.5mm woirms and 3.5mm worms and applicator, a 60ml bottle of sealant and valve core remover. Of course I have a hand pump as well.

If you ride clinchers without an inner tube you are a fool. Ride tubeless without sealant and the basics, you are again a fool and should be on a club run.

Hi bm0p700f.

I'm in the process of switching to tubeless on my road bike (with the Pro Ones). I was wondering what I need to carry with me and how it would be different vs what I carry with clinchers. Thx for the info.

To confirm, are you saying to carry (aside from sealant in the tires of course) just the items you listed, and no need for a tube/tire levers/CO2? Any recommendations for which "worms"? Thx!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ltyarbro42]

The Schwalbe pro ones are designed to be used with sealant as there isn't a butyl lining. Running them without is guaranteeing failure.

[Mr.Gib]

OK, so now that we've all ragged about the guy who rode tubeless without sealant, can anyone help me with my original inquiry about if the Pro Ones run with sealant are acceptable as a winter tire in the Pacific Northwest. Do they cut up like Vittoria or survive a little better like Conti? Anybody done a full season on them?

[Orlok]

OK, so now that we've all ragged about the guy who rode tubeless without sealant, can anyone help me with my original inquiry about if the Pro Ones run with sealant are acceptable as a winter tire in the Pacific Northwest. Do they cut up like Vittoria or survive a little better like Conti? Anybody done a full season on them?

I ride Schwalbe Pro One 23 mm in the Netherlands whole season, and also in the winter even with Schwalbe sealant no problems at all (most of the time . The only thing is that the roads for cycling are in the most ways separated from the rest of the road and are paving but they can also be very dirty.!