New Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Tires
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
28mm Pro Ones mounted very easily, only a little super-thumb action at the end.
Rim is ~23mm OD 19mm ID. Pro Ones (28) measured 31mm mounted and inflated.
For tricky rims, Kool-Stop Tire Bead Jack with Handle looks interesting. Never needed to buy one, but if I had issues - that is what i would get.
https://youtu.be/jtbT8EOgtKM
Rim is ~23mm OD 19mm ID. Pro Ones (28) measured 31mm mounted and inflated.
For tricky rims, Kool-Stop Tire Bead Jack with Handle looks interesting. Never needed to buy one, but if I had issues - that is what i would get.
https://youtu.be/jtbT8EOgtKM
hehe cheers Jeffy...i ordered the pedros levers and the KoolStop tyre Jack last night!!
when they arrive and i remove the conti tyre thats currently on the front wheel to fit the 23mm Pro One im going to measure the rim circumference. im sure it has to be 5-10mm larger than it should be. Im sureeven the Rock couldnt mount tyres on my rims without tools. it seriously took two of us working together about 15minutes and 2 broken levers. By the time i have the bead on as far as i can get it by hand it is taught yet hanging down well below the spoke bed og the rim...if that makes sense. I'll try to remember to take a pic when i change the front....hope that tyre jack is up to the job.
when they arrive and i remove the conti tyre thats currently on the front wheel to fit the 23mm Pro One im going to measure the rim circumference. im sure it has to be 5-10mm larger than it should be. Im sureeven the Rock couldnt mount tyres on my rims without tools. it seriously took two of us working together about 15minutes and 2 broken levers. By the time i have the bead on as far as i can get it by hand it is taught yet hanging down well below the spoke bed og the rim...if that makes sense. I'll try to remember to take a pic when i change the front....hope that tyre jack is up to the job.
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mr4fox wrote:beanbiken wrote:Had been using Schwable Ultremo ZX tubeless on Fulcrum Zeros two way rims, last weekend stripped and mounted a pair of the Pro Ones. Tough but not as tough as the Ultremos to get on, no tools required just thumbs and their mounting fluid. Floor pump and inflated first shot. Rode last weekend with 1200 meters of climbing............ really nice.
Steve
No tools?!!! I need new rims!
I will admit the first pair of tubeless tires I ever tried to mount were Fusion 3's (23's on Ultegra rims) and thought I'd never get them on. Since then I've learned there's a certain way to install them on the rim starting opposite the valve stem and working up. Once you get the technique down pat no tools are necessary.
ToffieBoi wrote:Is it possible to use Pro One Tubular tires on a Non-Tubular rim with special rim tape?
I think you are referring to tubeless. in that case no.
pitbull wrote:ToffieBoi wrote:Is it possible to use Pro One Tubular tires on a Non-Tubular rim with special rim tape?
I think you are referring to tubeless. in that case no.
Busy day at work... I meant Tubeless, yes.
ToffieBoi wrote:Is it possible to use Pro One Tubular tires on a Non-Tubular rim with special rim tape?
Got to disagree with the previous post. If your question refers to using tubeless (not tubular) tyres on a clincher rim that does not have a specific tubeless profile, then the answer is usually yes if you use tubeless tape to seal the rim. The tyre won't pop onto a rim shelf in quite the same way but it should seal fine with an appropriate sealant.
That's been my experience anyway.
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Miller wrote:
Got to disagree with the previous post. If your question refers to using tubeless (not tubular) tyres on a clincher rim that does not have a specific tubeless profile, then the answer is usually yes if you use tubeless tape to seal the rim. The tyre won't pop onto a rim shelf in quite the same way but it should seal fine with an appropriate sealant.
That's been my experience anyway.
My experience with mountain bike tires/ rims is exactly the same, but for road in my opinion you just need a specific rim that holds up to the higher pressure and seals properly. But that might differ from others opinions
Got the 23mm Pro One mounted on the front and 25mm on the rear on my Pacenti SL23's. i even got the tyre to seat using a tiny lightweight mini pump! but it sits pretty tight on the rim even when the beads are in the centre well so I'm not really surprised, but nice to know.
The 23 = 24.86mm wide @95pis
The 25 = 28.12mm wide @95psi...and just barely fits in my BMC TMR01 frame. I decided to dish my rear wheel about 0.5mm from centred to give symmetrical clearance the chain stays. Eyeballing it i'd say i have about 2.5, maybe 3mm clearance on each side as well as to the seat tube. Time will tell if its enough.
Managed not to break any tyre levers mounting the front tyre (the Kool Stop Bead Jack and Pedros levers haven't arrived yet). I resorted to using tape to hold one lever in place to stop the bead from sliding out as i levered the other end of it into the rim. not convinced i could get a tube in without pinching it and puncturing it in the event the sealant cant seal a leak. i added a little extra sealant just for peace of mind. 40ml rear and 30ml front.
From a weightweenie standpoint my whole wheel/tyre system weight has gone down 17g compared to the Conti GP4000s II's with fairly heavy Conti butyl race tubes (~90g each?). So total weight could still be less with 50g latex tubes and GP4000s. but hopefully the promise of significantly better puncture protection makes it worthwhile.
The 23 = 24.86mm wide @95pis
The 25 = 28.12mm wide @95psi...and just barely fits in my BMC TMR01 frame. I decided to dish my rear wheel about 0.5mm from centred to give symmetrical clearance the chain stays. Eyeballing it i'd say i have about 2.5, maybe 3mm clearance on each side as well as to the seat tube. Time will tell if its enough.
Managed not to break any tyre levers mounting the front tyre (the Kool Stop Bead Jack and Pedros levers haven't arrived yet). I resorted to using tape to hold one lever in place to stop the bead from sliding out as i levered the other end of it into the rim. not convinced i could get a tube in without pinching it and puncturing it in the event the sealant cant seal a leak. i added a little extra sealant just for peace of mind. 40ml rear and 30ml front.
From a weightweenie standpoint my whole wheel/tyre system weight has gone down 17g compared to the Conti GP4000s II's with fairly heavy Conti butyl race tubes (~90g each?). So total weight could still be less with 50g latex tubes and GP4000s. but hopefully the promise of significantly better puncture protection makes it worthwhile.
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Got mine in today. Both 23s. 24g difference between the two but whatevs. Mounting them up on a pair of first gen 1 sl23s laced to White Industries t11s to go along with a new build.
Looking forward to riding them. Always been anti road tubeless for some reason. Seems like a huge hassle having worked on customers bikes in the past but never owned a pair myself. Will see how it goes.
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Looking forward to riding them. Always been anti road tubeless for some reason. Seems like a huge hassle having worked on customers bikes in the past but never owned a pair myself. Will see how it goes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I run tubeless with orange seal. I also carry superglue and a self adhesive tube patch or two. The orange seal takes care of 90%+ of my punctures. If it is larger, I let the tire deflate, put a bit of superglue on the tire (outside) and then put on the self adhesive tube patch (the only good use of these!). I let the glue set, then rotate the tire to get sealant to the hole (w/ patch now) then reinflate and I am off. I never carry tubes anymore.
beatle wrote:I run tubeless with orange seal. I also carry superglue and a self adhesive tube patch or two. The orange seal takes care of 90%+ of my punctures. If it is larger, I let the tire deflate, put a bit of superglue on the tire (outside) and then put on the self adhesive tube patch (the only good use of these!). I let the glue set, then rotate the tire to get sealant to the hole (w/ patch now) then reinflate and I am off. I never carry tubes anymore.
Can you give some more detail on the use of the self adhesive patch and glue? I am kind of intrigued.
I am familiar with the use of superglue to repair small cuts in tire treads and casings, and how you can kind of pinch the uninflated tire to open the hole, and apply glue to the inside of the cut, so once the tire assumes its inflated shape the two sides of the cut bond back together, and will often hold for the life of the tire. It sounds like you are just smearing the glue on the outside, tread area of the tire though. Does this actually serve to repair the tire, or is it intended to help the patch to adhere?
Regarding the patch, is this just a "get you home" fix, or can you keep riding it until the tire wears out once it seals? If you keep riding it, what happens to the patch? Does it stay on indefinitely or fall off? I could see it helping to get the sealant to clot so if it falls off after serving its purpose then no biggie I guess.
Looking forward to your additional detail...
TheKaiser wrote:beatle wrote:I run tubeless with orange seal. I also carry superglue and a self adhesive tube patch or two. The orange seal takes care of 90%+ of my punctures. If it is larger, I let the tire deflate, put a bit of superglue on the tire (outside) and then put on the self adhesive tube patch (the only good use of these!). I let the glue set, then rotate the tire to get sealant to the hole (w/ patch now) then reinflate and I am off. I never carry tubes anymore.
Can you give some more detail on the use of the self adhesive patch and glue? I am kind of intrigued.
I am familiar with the use of superglue to repair small cuts in tire treads and casings, and how you can kind of pinch the uninflated tire to open the hole, and apply glue to the inside of the cut, so once the tire assumes its inflated shape the two sides of the cut bond back together, and will often hold for the life of the tire. It sounds like you are just smearing the glue on the outside, tread area of the tire though. Does this actually serve to repair the tire, or is it intended to help the patch to adhere?
Regarding the patch, is this just a "get you home" fix, or can you keep riding it until the tire wears out once it seals? If you keep riding it, what happens to the patch? Does it stay on indefinitely or fall off? I could see it helping to get the sealant to clot so if it falls off after serving its purpose then no biggie I guess.
Looking forward to your additional detail...
The patch allows for clotting to occur on an otherwise too large hole. And yes, just smear superglue, put on patch, wait a minute or two and ride. After a few miles the patch will start to wear away but the tire is sealed at that point. I am not claiming this will solve every large puncture but it extends the usefulness of tubeless. I have heard of the same method for tubulars.
beatle wrote:The patch allows for clotting to occur on an otherwise too large hole. And yes, just smear superglue, put on patch, wait a minute or two and ride. After a few miles the patch will start to wear away but the tire is sealed at that point. I am not claiming this will solve every large puncture but it extends the usefulness of tubeless. I have heard of the same method for tubulars.
Interesting, thanks for the additional detail. I may give that a that a try sometime, and perhaps dab a bit of the glue into the open cut as well for good measure, unless you think otherwise. I guess in a sense this is kind of like those fabric plugs that are becoming more popular with MTB tubeless users for cramming into larger cuts, in that all of these techniques are really just ways to help the sealant do it's job even when pushed to the limit of its cut size capabilities. I suppose there isn't any reason that one couldn't use your setup, plus a plug too for really nasty cuts. The more the merrier as far as I am concerned as it really sucks to have an otherwise nearly new tire taken out of tubeless commission.
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