New Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Tires

[sooni]

I used a cheap floor pump with my 17.5 mm internal ea90 slx rims and 25mm pro one tires, and had no issues. Used soapy water but im not sure it was even needed. I just had someone hold the tires while i pumped it.

[ms6073]

Seems like as long as the valve stem does not interfere with the tire bead, rims with narrower internal width are probably going to be easier to setup, but I would think the narrower rims will take away some of the benefit of running tubeless.

[TobinHatesYou]

The rough, tight bead on Schwalbe Pro Ones makes them more difficult to seat on my SES 5.6 Disc than most other tires. While the tightness of the bead means the tire is somewhat airtight in the center channel, air still forces its way out tiny gaps. This happens on my front rim more often than the rear.

With the new Hutchinson-made Zipps and Mavics, I an easily mount those tires by hand without levers and unmount them without levers too. They have a much smoother texture bead and inner casing and seated with only a few lazy strokes from my HP Lezyne track pump.

While I like Pro Ones for the performance and price, they really are inconvenient to set-up and I may stick with the new Zipps or Mavics once we get third-party rolling resistance figures.

[velomane]

Do you have links for the Zipp and Mavic tires to which you are referring?

[ms6073]

Zipp Tangente RT25 and RT28 Road Tubeless Tires

[waltthizzney]

these go on fine as long as you actually seat the tire properly..... just takes some practice

[jahknob]

I'm using Schwalbe Pro One 25s on a pair of Rolf VCX 'cross rims (from a few years back, the first year that these rims were certified tubeless-compatible). Had a very hard time getting the tyres on to the rim in the first place - needed help from the bike shop where they used a bit of silicone lube to help get the bead over the rim. I had lightly sanded the inside of the rim bead, cleaned with white spirits, used soapy water etc - everything the instructions recommended.
I can't remember if, when I inflated the tyres first time (using an Airshot reservoir), they popped in to place, but I did get the sealant in with the valve core left in, and everything seemed to work OK.

Over time, I noticed that the front tyre/wheel held air very well, but the rear would lose air over the course of a week to the point that, if I did nothing for a couple of weeks, the tyre would completely deflate and start leaking sealant on to the floor.

Eventually, I got fed up and decided to investigate. Took off the rear tyre, cleaned everything thoroughly and could see that for some reason (maybe heavy-handed installation using tyre levers?) the rim strip was scrunched up in several places, so reasoned that this could be the reason why the tyre wasn't properly airtight. Ordered a new rim strip and reinstalled everything as per instructions.

At this point, I discovered that I could not get the tyre bead to seat properly - used the Airshot (around 120-140PSI) with and without the valve core in place - there was always a flat spot where the tyre bead hadn't pulled up enough in to the rim bead hook. No sign of a "popping" noise of the bead snapping in to place. Must have tried a dozen times. Used plenty of soapy water to lubricate, then used a bit of silicone lube but nothing seemed to work. Also checked my rim tape installation and very carefully used a Stanley knife to trim away anywhere where the tape had ridden up close to the rim bead.

Then decided to install an inner tube and see what happened. Same problem, except that when I pumped the tube up above about 140PSI, the bead seemed to seat - no sound though. Left this overnight and then deflated, and the bead popped off again. Went through the tubeless setup again, used the Airshot once more (with valve core in place, so the air stays in, rather than without) and found the bead hadn't seated again. This time I just put the pump on the valve and kept pumping. By about 120PSI, the bead had worked its way back in to place. Now wondering if I shouldn't have tried this the very first time - used the Airshot, with valve core in, then just remove and keep pumping up the tyre..

Only problem was reintroducing the sealant, as once the pressure out of the tyre, the bead unseats, so potentially very messy (use newspaper on floor, move slowly, don't squish the tyre flat on the ground..), but once sealant in, repeated procedure with Airshot and then pump and all seems to be well. Just finished this morning, so will be watching and waiting to see how it now holds air compared to the front wheel.

For the record, I have to say that I think that the Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres give an exceptional ride - about as close to tubulars as you can get without being on tubulars. Bit of a faff to set up, and the lack of the bead popping in to place and staying there proved to be frustrating, but I've no reason to believe (after riding on the wheels for more than six months) that they'll be any different after redoing the back wheel.

[ms6073]

once the pressure is out of the tyre, the bead unseats, so potentially very messy

Based on my experiences with Schwalbe tires to include a set of Sammy Slick (non-tubeless) & G One (tubeless gravel tires), as well as the Pro One, I would think you may have a tire with a defective/out of tolerance bead as our Pro One's 'popped' and fully seated by around 65-75 psi.

[CallumRD1]

once the pressure is out of the tyre, the bead unseats, so potentially very messy

Based on my experiences with Schwalbe tires to include a set of Sammy Slick (non-tubeless) & G One (tubeless gravel tires), as well as the Pro One, I would think you may have a tire with a defective/out of tolerance bead as our Pro One's 'popped' and fully seated by around 65-75 psi.

Remember that the tire staying up on the bead is highly dependent on the rim being used. Where one rim may have a pronounced bead shelf that keeps the bead in place once inflated, another may not be nearly as secure.

[rmr40]

Recently fitted 28mm Pro one's to 19mm Kinlin rims - they were quite tough to get on with 2 levers but it only took a couple of minutes.

seated first try with a track pump and without any sealant - They held their pressure well overnight but had ballooned to 31mm! Although I had clearance they were just too fat - like tractor tyres! They just didn't suit a slim racing frame so I swapped them out for the 25mm versions which were an even tighter fit. These measure 28mm.

Weights; 25mm = 255g, 28mm = 280g

Ride report to follow..

[WinterRider]

S1's 3 .. Me 1.

If it weren't for the ease w which the first one went on 20H front I'd move these to someone I did not care for.. if found. Butttt.. I'm wayyy stubborn, not intelligent enough to know when I'm beat.. and my hands still function.. barely.

I well understand the Schwalbe side... 17% into this 21st century with slick suited briefcase types camped outside their corp offices waiting to pounce. If I ran Schwalbe you'd have to mail ALL your rims IN to get mounted... Take largest rim manufactured.. run exhaustive tests to make flippin' sure this 'tire' will stay put and not maim someone deflating under load... gotta cover ALL your rear sections.

My issue: leaking around valve stem.. same issue as when I tried 'speriment w valve cut from old tube. My rim hole must be compromised... angled ?.. who knows. Likely my handiwork in some regard. Get this: front rim has NO tape around valve hole... staying up just fine.. rim tape is strapping tape via Menards.. which had set for some time in use.

How to proceed now? Thing has to come OFF for 4th time... drill out value hole minutely.. square things up manner of speaking? Glue a piece of inner tube over the hole.. I mean GLUE.. forcing the air flow issue to interface between value and tube surface........?

NOT gonna concede.. do have a 270 Kinlin triplet back up.......... but has to be a way to seal value hole....

SLIPPPERY.. is not cool mounting the S1... residual latex means one can NOT mount a tire solo. While I aint first team ALL WORLD tire mounter... I would make a decent bench warmer. Bead jack operated by helper with me holding and guiding/pushing bead on.. with use of air dryer to warm tire.

Wayyy past the 'makes sense' endeavor... but now I have to win out.

[kode54]

i've haven't had the issues that you have. i did have issues with my rim tape or installation of it. because there's a deep groove where the nipple holes are...i had to press the rim tape in that groove much deeper...and in doing so, i may have compromised the tape a bit? not sure...but at one point where i had a slice on the sidewall...i pulled the tire off to replace...the rim tape was almost split within the holes. i was using the Enve supplied rim tape with 2 layers. maybe there's a better rim tape that actually won't fail on me on a ride within a season?

[WinterRider]

2nd rim tape for me failed... had not set up enough I figure with only 2 days under pressure of tire/tube. And I suspect the cleaning agent on the rim wasn't removed thoroughly enough.

This time around Gorilla tape... looks fine.. and the 200 do not have the groove for the spoke holes.

[kode54]

i've seen some use Gorilla tape. do you have to cut it? or you get it to size?

[WinterRider]

i've seen some use Gorilla tape. do you have to cut it? or you get it to size?

Had to cut/rip.. suggest not bothering when tolerances like mine are slim. Adds too much dia and makes it nigh on to impossible to mount the S1's. Was not impressed with it's holding ability either.. yet believe the issue is film from latex and ? plus only curing 1+days.

So.. I lost round 5.

S1's 4 Me... still one.

Did get the f'n 'tire' off the 200... broke 2 more levers... used metal very carefully to get a coated tool handle under f'n bead to get it off 2nd side. Can one tell I'm a mite tired of this game...

Anyway... yadda yadda... drilled out the valve hole just a tad... was not 'crisp so to speak. Gorilla was not adhering uniformly.. did form near solid mass.

--dia added by tape is critical in my application given the S1's 'lawyer connection'... my frustration/s.. again do understand the WHY she be tight. Gotta have THIN... two wraps with the strapping tape in my case.. what to substitute?? Do they quote/spec thickness in thousandths??

--narrow internal rims MUST have narrow value base... (really.... dah)... getting it seated right around valve one detale to watch closely.

NEW angle... DEGREASE rim internal... two wraps of strapping UNLESS someone comes forward with thin alternative... MOUNT S1's with TUBE... that'll be a hoot. RIDE.. set that tape on..maybe/maybe NOT have another go with NO internal 'CONDOME'. Might.. do this on 270 rear.... the 200 and I need a break.

Think also trip into our very good hardware store.. some gaskets.. base of Stan's valve. American C has 2 gaskets but the base is too large dia for the internals of my enemy... errr.. I meant rim.