Cannibalising a new bike for parts?
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi guys,
Just wondering what you all thought about purchasing a new bike for cannibalisation.
I've a new Crisp frame and looking at building it up with a Campy Super EPS & Bora build. So I'm contemplating buying a new complete bike for cannibalisation. After switching parts to the new frame I could then transfer the Dura Ace group and parts from my broken (made functional by me) Kickr Tarmac onto the cannibalised frame and have another roadie. And then buy cheap/2nd hand parts for the Kicker frame.
The other option would be to sell the frame from the cannibalised bike. Super EPS only seems to be spec'd on the highend frames anyway.
What do you think? Is it worth the time and effort? Has anyone done it recently and saved money?
Just wondering what you all thought about purchasing a new bike for cannibalisation.
I've a new Crisp frame and looking at building it up with a Campy Super EPS & Bora build. So I'm contemplating buying a new complete bike for cannibalisation. After switching parts to the new frame I could then transfer the Dura Ace group and parts from my broken (made functional by me) Kickr Tarmac onto the cannibalised frame and have another roadie. And then buy cheap/2nd hand parts for the Kicker frame.
The other option would be to sell the frame from the cannibalised bike. Super EPS only seems to be spec'd on the highend frames anyway.
What do you think? Is it worth the time and effort? Has anyone done it recently and saved money?
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I know of at least one team that did this.
They didn't have a groupset or wheel sponsor, cheapest way to get the groups and finishing kit/wheels was to buy a last year model and move all the components over, sell the frames.
I think they saved about 60% on retail in the end, or 30% on the best wholesale deal they could get.
They didn't have a groupset or wheel sponsor, cheapest way to get the groups and finishing kit/wheels was to buy a last year model and move all the components over, sell the frames.
I think they saved about 60% on retail in the end, or 30% on the best wholesale deal they could get.
MiddMan wrote:If it's cheaper, go for it. But what frame will you be buying with EPS? And what's your new frame? Remember that you'll have to sell the frame on the complete bike, unless of course you keep it as you suggested. Two bikes is better than one
Yes, that's what I'm thinking will happen...keep the frame...new build...n+1 will always win out.
OP, not sure where you live, but I'd rather buy the parts for Super EPS one by one as I found good deals and discount codes. Would hate to have to pay the 8-10% sales tax on a complete build when I only wanted to pull the parts off. Much better to buy the parts one by one imho.
"Marginal gains are the only gains when all that's left to gain is in the margins."
^ agree... I've done 3 bikes in DA9070 and one in Ultegra6870 that way. Sure it takes time and some eBay sniping skills but way more then made up for it in money saved. If you are in no big rush it's the only way to go.
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2002 Moots Compact-SL
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault
53x12 wrote:OP, not sure where you live, but I'd rather buy the parts for Super EPS one by one as I found good deals and discount codes. Would hate to have to pay the 8-10% sales tax on a complete build when I only wanted to pull the parts off. Much better to buy the parts one by one imho.
spdntrxi wrote:^ agree... I've done 3 bikes in DA9070 and one in Ultegra6870 that way. Sure it takes time and some eBay sniping skills but way more then made up for it in money saved. If you are in no big rush it's the only way to go.
That's a great point that I hadn't thought of. Thanks!
I've been up every bike with have/had (currently 16 bikes between myself and my wife)… Always bought the components piecemeal to get the least expensive total cost. Looked into buying a complete bike to cannibalize, but that's always turned out to be more expensive.
I guess it also depends on how much of a rush you are in… the more time you have, the more you can save.
I guess it also depends on how much of a rush you are in… the more time you have, the more you can save.
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin
audiojan wrote:I've been up every bike with have/had (currently 16 bikes between myself and my wife)… Always bought the components piecemeal to get the least expensive total cost. Looked into buying a complete bike to cannibalize, but that's always turned out to be more expensive.
I guess it also depends on how much of a rush you are in… the more time you have, the more you can save.
In your experience has buying part by part (new) been cheaper than buying a groupset?
Although it's not always better to buy a complete bike than snipe parts separately, it's worth trying to see if you can find roughly the complete bike you want at 40-50% off, then you can sell off a few bits you don't want/need like cranks if you have an SRM, wheels if you have nicer ones already etc... and then the cost becomes very low compared with sniping.
I saw Cervelo were selling off last year's colours around March this year so looked up all the stockists in UK and Germany of the bike I wanted. Then I visited their websites and made a spreadsheet of costs including import costs, VAT, FX etc. Where you get a draw call them and ask for a discount / free shipping etc... Ended up with a pro quality tri bike for the same cost as a bike reflecting my abilities.
Timing was unusual as bikes like this are normally only discounted post Tour to end of season when the new colour scheme etc. has been published, so it's a good idea to hang on until then. An easy tip is to call the bike company and ask them what will likely be on sale and when. Not rocket science but saw my wife doing this in clothes shops and then asking them to hold things for her in the sale - it often works, particularly when things have been on the shelf for a while.
I saw Cervelo were selling off last year's colours around March this year so looked up all the stockists in UK and Germany of the bike I wanted. Then I visited their websites and made a spreadsheet of costs including import costs, VAT, FX etc. Where you get a draw call them and ask for a discount / free shipping etc... Ended up with a pro quality tri bike for the same cost as a bike reflecting my abilities.
Timing was unusual as bikes like this are normally only discounted post Tour to end of season when the new colour scheme etc. has been published, so it's a good idea to hang on until then. An easy tip is to call the bike company and ask them what will likely be on sale and when. Not rocket science but saw my wife doing this in clothes shops and then asking them to hold things for her in the sale - it often works, particularly when things have been on the shelf for a while.
nealjp wrote:audiojan wrote:I've been up every bike with have/had (currently 16 bikes between myself and my wife)… Always bought the components piecemeal to get the least expensive total cost. Looked into buying a complete bike to cannibalize, but that's always turned out to be more expensive.
I guess it also depends on how much of a rush you are in… the more time you have, the more you can save.
In your experience has buying part by part (new) been cheaper than buying a groupset?
Can be easily done if you shop around a bit.
More to the point, this thread is about buying a full bike for cannibalizing some of the components, which will also leave the owner with components they didn't really need but in the end paid for a lot of money.
I've built two bikes from parts I have bought one by one and they are cheaper and lighter then equivalent ready builds.
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Check campy prices at ribble:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk
They have often beat eBay by a good margin. They also frequently have an extra 10% off sale.
I often buy slightly used parts on eBay but there have been many occasions where the new part from ribble was cheaper.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk
They have often beat eBay by a good margin. They also frequently have an extra 10% off sale.
I often buy slightly used parts on eBay but there have been many occasions where the new part from ribble was cheaper.