PF30 the best cups for the job ? Aluminium or Plastic
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi all My new frame should be here any day and I've scanned google but there doesn't seem to be a definite WHAT'S BEST OPTION OUT THERE
I read the angry Asian write up on BikeRadar http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/angryasian-ive-had-it-with-press-fit-bottom-brackets-38220/
He seems to think Aluminium is best what's your experience's ?? I'm hoping there nice and quiet compared to my last frames BB30
Looking forward to your advice
I read the angry Asian write up on BikeRadar http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/angryasian-ive-had-it-with-press-fit-bottom-brackets-38220/
He seems to think Aluminium is best what's your experience's ?? I'm hoping there nice and quiet compared to my last frames BB30
Looking forward to your advice
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Here's mine.
1) My BB30 frames are all nice and quiet.
2) I ditched my aluminium Wheels manufacturing PF30 (cartridge bearings ) . It was misaligned, spinning poorly. Carefully installed a cheap Sram plastic one. Works fine now (3 months).
3) Want to try angular contact bearings (maybe) next time I take this one off.
Louis
1) My BB30 frames are all nice and quiet.
2) I ditched my aluminium Wheels manufacturing PF30 (cartridge bearings ) . It was misaligned, spinning poorly. Carefully installed a cheap Sram plastic one. Works fine now (3 months).
3) Want to try angular contact bearings (maybe) next time I take this one off.
Louis
http://bbinfinite.com for more reasons than just eliminating creaking.
It depends.
Case 1:
If the components are all with specification for fit and alignment then aluminum would be the best as it will deform/deflect less than most plastics and keep things lined up.
Case 2:
If the parts are not aligned or within spec for tolerances then plastic cups will deform to allow some mismatch of positions and deal with variations of the assembly stack up. The polymer cups will mask the noises that are a common problem because they are soft relative to the drive train parts which will allow more variance in the stackup of the parts through the bottom bracket.
Case 1:
If the components are all with specification for fit and alignment then aluminum would be the best as it will deform/deflect less than most plastics and keep things lined up.
Case 2:
If the parts are not aligned or within spec for tolerances then plastic cups will deform to allow some mismatch of positions and deal with variations of the assembly stack up. The polymer cups will mask the noises that are a common problem because they are soft relative to the drive train parts which will allow more variance in the stackup of the parts through the bottom bracket.
ricey155 wrote: I'll try without loctite first see how I fair first.
There is a reason that Specialized, Cannondale, Trek and other manufacturers recommend Loctite 609 or stronger retaining/gap sealing compounds with the install of BB30 and press fit BBs....IT WORKS!
The trouble with failed BB30/PressFit installs, I suspect, is that most are not using Loctite during initial install, then they start experiencing creaks because of parts that are not set correctly, and the movement begins to wear the BB shell. By the time some people get around to using Loctite their frame is worn so far out of tolerance that even Loctite 609 will not do the job. Why risk potential damage to your frame with a poor initial install.....do it correctly the first time.
______________
+1 It really doesn't make sense not to use the Loctite 609 + primer. It doesn't make the cups any harder to get out and it's fairly easy to clean up should you need to change out the cups. There's no downside to doing it right the first time.
em3 wrote:Aluminum, but the more important part is the use of Loctite 609 retaining/gap filling compound...an absolute must. EM3
^ this. 609 with aluminum.
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- Factor LS Disc
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- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
Also, and even with loctite, it is critical that the two cups be perfectly aligned. Harder to do if you don't have a proper press that will seat in both bearings and keep them aligned while the loctite cures. Otherwise you are really relying on the two BB faces to be perfectly square with each other and faced at to start with and hope you got the cups in straight on both sides. Even if the raw frame BB faces were square, uneven paint on those faces can throw things out of alignment, in which case bearing life will be reduced.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
if you have creaking problems and there is any kind of room on your frame, have a bike shop chase and face your bottom bracket....
I bought the tools to do it myself and don't have any problems with creaking. I use aluminum shell pf30 bottom brackets.... playing with this one now...the problem solvers pf30 eccentric... even being moderately loose fitting to allow adjustment it doesn't squeak because the shell is well faced with the proper tools.
Breaking it in at the moment, in a few days I will take off the chain and see how "loose" or low friction the angular bearings feel, even with that FSA wave washer the SLK cranks need.
I bought the tools to do it myself and don't have any problems with creaking. I use aluminum shell pf30 bottom brackets.... playing with this one now...the problem solvers pf30 eccentric... even being moderately loose fitting to allow adjustment it doesn't squeak because the shell is well faced with the proper tools.
Breaking it in at the moment, in a few days I will take off the chain and see how "loose" or low friction the angular bearings feel, even with that FSA wave washer the SLK cranks need.
Remember to use the primer (Loctite 7649) with loctite 609 since both the cups and the carbon shell are inactive surfaces and need the primer. I
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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