Does the Campag UT-CN300 11 speed chain tool work with both 10 and 11 speed chains depending on which connecting pin you use? Or is it the case that you need the Campag 10 speed chain tool for Campag 10 speed chains and the Campag 11 speed chain tool for Campag 11 speed chains?
Thanks.
Campagnolo Chain Tools
Moderator: robbosmans
I cannot comment on the campy specific chain tool.
I use a pedros tutto. compatible with almost all chains. has a peening tool.
http://pedros.com/products/tools/casset ... ain/tutto/
I hope that helps.
I use a pedros tutto. compatible with almost all chains. has a peening tool.
http://pedros.com/products/tools/casset ... ain/tutto/
I hope that helps.
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If you are willing to spend big money for a Campag specific chain tool, might as well check out the Rohloff Revolver.
http://www.starbike.com/p/Rohloff-Revol ... ol-4121-en
http://www.starbike.com/p/Rohloff-Revol ... ol-4121-en
It is much easier to use some generic chain tool, like the Park Tool, for cutting the chain and then attach it with KMC MissingLink for Campagnolo 10 or 11.
http://www.kmcchain.eu/products-connect ... sing_links
http://www.kmcchain.eu/products-connect ... sing_links
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Valbrona
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KMC are liars. They say they make 'Campagnolo compatible' chain links but in reality they are a bad fit. KMC Missing Links do not have bevelled edges like the links in Campagnolo chains and they damage components as they rub against them. Run a Campagnolo chain containing a Missing Link through your fingers and you will see what I mean.
But KMC Missing Links work okay with second-string components, like Shimano.
But KMC Missing Links work okay with second-string components, like Shimano.
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androidavies
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:34 pm
I was using these today, so thought I'd check for you.....
The 10 speed chain doesn't fit in the Campag 11 tool, it's too wide. A Shimano 11 chain will just fit in the Campag 11 tool, though it's fractionally wider at the widest point. They're both expensive, especially the 11 speed one, and I know that there are cheaper alternatives, but I have to say that they work very well, and are a pleasure to use! The locating fork that holds the link in just the correct position for either rivetting and/or peening, is very comforting on both of the tools. I've tried a few of the other 11 speed compatible tools on the market, Rohloff, Topeak, Park, but I didn't like them. They're fine for occasional use I'd say, but the Campag ones just feel more consistent and solid for me. At a price of course....
Finding that it's often pushing rivets out that damages chain tools, and breaks/bends the pin, I only use the Campag tools for joining/fitting new chains now. I use a generic Park tool for splitting them, or a small pair of bolt cutters, which are quicker and less messy if the chain is going straight in the dustbin anyways.
The 10 speed chain doesn't fit in the Campag 11 tool, it's too wide. A Shimano 11 chain will just fit in the Campag 11 tool, though it's fractionally wider at the widest point. They're both expensive, especially the 11 speed one, and I know that there are cheaper alternatives, but I have to say that they work very well, and are a pleasure to use! The locating fork that holds the link in just the correct position for either rivetting and/or peening, is very comforting on both of the tools. I've tried a few of the other 11 speed compatible tools on the market, Rohloff, Topeak, Park, but I didn't like them. They're fine for occasional use I'd say, but the Campag ones just feel more consistent and solid for me. At a price of course....
Finding that it's often pushing rivets out that damages chain tools, and breaks/bends the pin, I only use the Campag tools for joining/fitting new chains now. I use a generic Park tool for splitting them, or a small pair of bolt cutters, which are quicker and less messy if the chain is going straight in the dustbin anyways.
I used my Campagnolo 11 speed chain tool for the first time today. A little bit of a learning curve to use correctly as I previously used the KMC Missing Link. I had trouble seating the clamping fork with the chain in the tool and also trouble seating the chain completely with the peening tongue closed. Anyone have any tips using this tool?
It's all downhill from here, except for the uphills.
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ghisallo2003
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It actually helps a lot to have had experience with the 10 speed tool before the 11. This also helps you learn to spend absurd amounts of money on tools !
The trick with the chain 'fork' is to know that it has to be in place and therefore use some force and persistence to make sure the chain is deeply enough in the slots so the insert can come over. The same applies to the peening end that you close to lock in the back face. The tolerances are tight and this is why the tool does such a clean job.
Given that Campag have designed this incredibly robust way to close a chain, I would not take the risk on a quick-link (David Millar anyone?). I have had one fail in the past, as has a team-mate, and the results can be a catastrophic loss of chain, mech, wheel and hanger. Why take the chance?
The trick with the chain 'fork' is to know that it has to be in place and therefore use some force and persistence to make sure the chain is deeply enough in the slots so the insert can come over. The same applies to the peening end that you close to lock in the back face. The tolerances are tight and this is why the tool does such a clean job.
Given that Campag have designed this incredibly robust way to close a chain, I would not take the risk on a quick-link (David Millar anyone?). I have had one fail in the past, as has a team-mate, and the results can be a catastrophic loss of chain, mech, wheel and hanger. Why take the chance?
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Valbrona
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androidavies wrote:Finding that it's often pushing rivets out that damages chain tools, and breaks/bends the pin, I only use the Campag tools for joining/fitting new chains now. I use a generic Park tool for splitting them, or a small pair of bolt cutters, which are quicker and less messy if the chain is going straight in the dustbin anyways.
Having done this for years, I see no problem in using a regular chain tool for the initial shortening of a Campag chain. But does anyone have a case to disagree?
