Dura-ace WH-9000 C24 CL vs TL
Moderator: robbosmans
My local shop has a big sale next week on Shimano WH-9000 C24 wheels. They have both the CL and TL versions, price almost the same. Which ones should I buy? I have a Scott Solace 30 with stock Shimano RS11 wheels, 28mm Schwalbe Durano tyres with Schwalbe Extra Light SV20 tubes.
The CLs are about 90g lighter and since I don't use tubeless they seem an obvious choice. But what if I want to go tubeless one day? Also, the TLs don't require a tape, which saves a few g., so the weight difference is smaler...
Any advice?
The CLs are about 90g lighter and since I don't use tubeless they seem an obvious choice. But what if I want to go tubeless one day? Also, the TLs don't require a tape, which saves a few g., so the weight difference is smaler...
Any advice?
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If you are happy with Clinchers, I would stick with them. Look to new solutions when you have issues not when you don't. I don't race and in the few instances I get a flat I can change the tube in a few minutes. If you aren't happy with clinchers then by all means explore the options.
By the way, I ride C-24's with clinchers and could not be happier.
By the way, I ride C-24's with clinchers and could not be happier.
Colnago C-59 (Dura Ace)
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Colnago C-64 disc(ultegra) with Bora 35 wheels
Firefly(Ultegra)
Colnago C-64 disc(ultegra) with Bora 35 wheels
Good advice, but you missed my point - this is not a "clinchers vs. tubeless" question
If I go with WH-9000 C24 TL, I can use BOTH clinchers and (perhaps one day) tubeless. This wheel is a bit heavier (90g minus the tape weight), but it would give me the long term flexibility.
If I go with WH-9000 C24 CL, I can only use clinchers, but it's a bit lighter (90g minus the tape).
THIS is the dilemma...
If I go with WH-9000 C24 TL, I can use BOTH clinchers and (perhaps one day) tubeless. This wheel is a bit heavier (90g minus the tape weight), but it would give me the long term flexibility.
If I go with WH-9000 C24 CL, I can only use clinchers, but it's a bit lighter (90g minus the tape).
THIS is the dilemma...
well if perhaps ones day means maybe.... then go TL. I know I won't... so I'll take my 90g and run, this is ww after all.
2024 BMC TeamMachine R
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2002 Moots Compact-SL
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
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2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault
I recommend the CL because road tubeless just doesn't seem to be increasing prominence on the road, tire selection is limited, and you're already riding regular clinchers with no firm plan to change to tubeless. The CL's are lighter and normally a bit less money. If you plan to ride tubeless, then the TL is a very good option. Either way, you will be getting a great wheel set. Don't overthink it.
Thank you all - I guess I'll get the CLs then.
I think it will be a wonderful upgrade, taking off over half a kilogram of rotating mass not to mention all other aspects of a much higher end wheel construction. Add to that the 5kg I shed off my own mass this year. Wasn't easy for someone recovering from thyroid cancer, but I promised myself if I reach my pre-radiotherapy weight, I will buy my Scott a present for this year's summer cycling tour and this is it
Thanks again for your advice!
I think it will be a wonderful upgrade, taking off over half a kilogram of rotating mass not to mention all other aspects of a much higher end wheel construction. Add to that the 5kg I shed off my own mass this year. Wasn't easy for someone recovering from thyroid cancer, but I promised myself if I reach my pre-radiotherapy weight, I will buy my Scott a present for this year's summer cycling tour and this is it
Thanks again for your advice!
Go with the CL's. Any clincher wheel can be converted to tubeless. The TL version is the version best compatible with the Hutchinson UST tubeless tires, which will seal up without the use of sealant, which Shimano doesn't recommend. UST isn't very common, and you can get around it very easily by running the CL's with tubeless tires and sealant to seal the tires. That's how all the other "tubeless ready" wheels work.
Madone 9 - https://bit.ly/2Nqedbn
Emonda SLR - https://bit.ly/2UK5FP8
Crockett - https://bit.ly/2Xem4sk
Emonda SLR - https://bit.ly/2UK5FP8
Crockett - https://bit.ly/2Xem4sk
Thank you, FIJIGabe. I was still a bit hesitant, but after this bit of clearly knowledgeable advise I went ahead and ordered
I'm new to WW and I'm probably not a true weight weenie, because I'm not too technical about my bike, just tend to have lots of fun riding it But I do like a little upgrade now and then, to keep the bike (and me!) happy. The nice thing about Scott Solace is that it's very upgradeable, because they use the same carbon frame for every model, from the budget version to the insanely expensive (for me) one. I started with Solace 30, which is all 105 5800, the wheels are the first upgrade, and the saddle will follow, because the stock Syncros FL2.5 is not comfortable for me despite (or maybe because of) lots of padding. I tried to get used to it, but if after almost 1000km it still doesn't feel right for my bum, it's time to change it, and maybe shed another 100-120g in the process, because FL2.5 weighs 340g. I'm thinking of SMP Dynamic or Drakon, unfortunately I live in a place where it's not really possible to try before you buy, I just have to get one based on the internet reviews and if it doesn't work - tough, sell it on fleaBay and try something else...
Thanks again for the excellent advice, I appreciate your help!
Marcin "Gajdzin" Bruczkowski
I'm new to WW and I'm probably not a true weight weenie, because I'm not too technical about my bike, just tend to have lots of fun riding it But I do like a little upgrade now and then, to keep the bike (and me!) happy. The nice thing about Scott Solace is that it's very upgradeable, because they use the same carbon frame for every model, from the budget version to the insanely expensive (for me) one. I started with Solace 30, which is all 105 5800, the wheels are the first upgrade, and the saddle will follow, because the stock Syncros FL2.5 is not comfortable for me despite (or maybe because of) lots of padding. I tried to get used to it, but if after almost 1000km it still doesn't feel right for my bum, it's time to change it, and maybe shed another 100-120g in the process, because FL2.5 weighs 340g. I'm thinking of SMP Dynamic or Drakon, unfortunately I live in a place where it's not really possible to try before you buy, I just have to get one based on the internet reviews and if it doesn't work - tough, sell it on fleaBay and try something else...
Thanks again for the excellent advice, I appreciate your help!
Marcin "Gajdzin" Bruczkowski
Gajdzin wrote:Good advice, but you missed my point - this is not a "clinchers vs. tubeless" question
If I go with WH-9000 C24 TL, I can use BOTH clinchers and (perhaps one day) tubeless. This wheel is a bit heavier (90g minus the tape weight), but it would give me the long term flexibility.
If I go with WH-9000 C24 CL, I can only use clinchers, but it's a bit lighter (90g minus the tape).
THIS is the dilemma...
Too late now as you've ordered but I think you have made a pretty convincing argument for getting the TL. I personally wouldn't ride CL's tubeless ever although others might, and I do find that tubeless in winter saves having to get my hands cacked up changing tubes so the versatility of the TLs would be a plus point for me. YMMV
Is there a dimensional difference in the bead hook TL vs CL? If not then then the CL can run tubeless.
Also to consider is that if you trash the rims, the TL hubs are very difficult to re-build with a different rim (non Shimano) because the spokes use a threaded nut on the hub side.
Also to consider is that if you trash the rims, the TL hubs are very difficult to re-build with a different rim (non Shimano) because the spokes use a threaded nut on the hub side.
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