Well, that's an excellent point. If you're in the "I have my aero bike and I have my climbing bike" camp, and when there's steep grades, then I break out my climbing bike anyway, then I agree with you. Even IF I only want a 50-11, I wouldn't want a 34 -- a 50-36 is better, or a 50-38.
If you're in the #aeroiseverything camp then you want aero for your one bike to rule them all, then it makes sense to have the small gear.
This is why I don't like pre-built bikes. Anyone spending that much should have specific preferences.
2016 Madone 9
Moderator: robbosmans
; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
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Most likely reason is to get rid of surplus 50/34 rings. I say that not tongue in cheek but quite seriously. And extra profit when most will want to buy another set of rings to replace the 50/34. $KaChing$
A perfect way to get rid of them. The people that buy this bike are going to buy it regardless, it's the perfect frame to hang these chainrings on if they want to get rid of them. Or, they simply don't have good stock on hand of standard or mid compact rings. There is really no other good reason they would spec a bike like this with a 34t small chainring. And it's not unheard of at all.
A perfect way to get rid of them. The people that buy this bike are going to buy it regardless, it's the perfect frame to hang these chainrings on if they want to get rid of them. Or, they simply don't have good stock on hand of standard or mid compact rings. There is really no other good reason they would spec a bike like this with a 34t small chainring. And it's not unheard of at all.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Along with this, don't get why they only limit H1 to 700 series... I would like a H1 without paying 1k more!
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djconnel wrote:This is why I don't like pre-built bikes. Anyone spending that much should have specific preferences.
That's what Project 1 is for!
As for the whole chainring thing, I see it the other way. If you are going to have a 50t big ring then why wouldn't you have a 34t small ring? Less overlap of gears and a wider overall range. As for the shifting, how much do you really shift the front rings? Not all that often really and I'd take the wider range over better front shifting any day.
As for having a 'climbing bike'? Aero trumps weight most of the time anyway and if you can build this bike down to 6.8kg then why wouldn't you take the aero advantage as well?
I'm more than likely going to be placing an order once the Madone is available on Project 1. I'll be speccing mine with 50/34t and an 11-25 cassette to tighten up the ratios where it's needed.
Looking at the geometry, especially the H1 fit, I think it might make sense for it to be that low. If the truly measure the stack traditional, center of bottom bracket to the top of the head tube, then it should be fine because the bearing cover/cable hider looks pretty tall. The question is, is the stack measure traditionally and how tall is the bearing cover?
MRM wrote:Would be sweet to have someone from Trek here to ask such questions, like we could to Chris Yu regarding the Venge ViAS.
Don't know if that was just marketing from Specialized, but I really enjoyed and appreciated it. I guess advertising and marketing does work... insidious basterds...
One of the Trek rep's has been replying to posts on Slowtwitch if you have any questions
Fabian is a Classics rider. The Domane Classic was made for him. Thus he is to ride it.
And lets be honest, because we pay for our bikes we are much more likely to split hairs about all of these details. In the end, when the pros have a choice they use simple logic, choose something, race, and move on with life. They probably realize the number of factors involved in a race and just choose which ones they want to mind or control for and instead focus on their racing. Pretty simple.
As for gear ratios you guys are making a bit too much of a fuss about it. Most choices give you a decent cadence overlap and as long as you aren't very heavy or riding very steep grades for long periods of time whatever you choose should be OK. For me having a 16t is really nice and pretty much anything with an 11-26 SRAM or 11-25 cassette outback is good enough for the racing I do and where I live. Using my 36 vs a 39 just gives me a bail out gear for the bad days, but if the effort is tempo or above and its not above 9%, chances are I'm not in my lowest gear and its a matter of what cadence feels comfortable. Its the same for most riders I've raced with regardless of build. When we were riding OLH and 84 yesterday one of my teammates that races as a cat 1 on 50/34 with an 11/28 was on his TT bike with 54/44 and an 11-23. He basically just had to a bit harder, but his gearing was fine given his effort and cadence. It seems pedestrians care much more, but could make anything work. Trek likely makes their best guess and goes with their inventory figures.
As an aside, with Cannondale you can (or used to be able to) spec your chainring sizes.
And lets be honest, because we pay for our bikes we are much more likely to split hairs about all of these details. In the end, when the pros have a choice they use simple logic, choose something, race, and move on with life. They probably realize the number of factors involved in a race and just choose which ones they want to mind or control for and instead focus on their racing. Pretty simple.
As for gear ratios you guys are making a bit too much of a fuss about it. Most choices give you a decent cadence overlap and as long as you aren't very heavy or riding very steep grades for long periods of time whatever you choose should be OK. For me having a 16t is really nice and pretty much anything with an 11-26 SRAM or 11-25 cassette outback is good enough for the racing I do and where I live. Using my 36 vs a 39 just gives me a bail out gear for the bad days, but if the effort is tempo or above and its not above 9%, chances are I'm not in my lowest gear and its a matter of what cadence feels comfortable. Its the same for most riders I've raced with regardless of build. When we were riding OLH and 84 yesterday one of my teammates that races as a cat 1 on 50/34 with an 11/28 was on his TT bike with 54/44 and an 11-23. He basically just had to a bit harder, but his gearing was fine given his effort and cadence. It seems pedestrians care much more, but could make anything work. Trek likely makes their best guess and goes with their inventory figures.
As an aside, with Cannondale you can (or used to be able to) spec your chainring sizes.
mile2424 wrote:MRM wrote:Would be sweet to have someone from Trek here to ask such questions, like we could to Chris Yu regarding the Venge ViAS.
Don't know if that was just marketing from Specialized, but I really enjoyed and appreciated it. I guess advertising and marketing does work... insidious basterds...
One of the Trek rep's has been replying to posts on Slowtwitch if you have any questions
Cool thanks! I'll go check it out!
mile2424 wrote:And why is Cancellara not on the new Madone?
He was on it just previously to the tour when the Madone 9 was introduced. Maybe he will be again in the future. The Domane is basically his line (marketed entirely around him) and he has his unique paint job there. Maybe Trek were not able to give the Madone 9 his unique paint job in time, because it is hand painted (if i remember correctly).
0psi wrote:djconnel wrote:This is why I don't like pre-built bikes. Anyone spending that much should have specific preferences.
That's what Project 1 is for!
Yeah -- too bad Project 1 offers such limited component option, though.
As to the advantage of 36-46 or 36-48 vs 36-50 or 36-52 I find it's much better on up-shifts; I find myself immediately in a useful gear rather than having to downshift rear. As long as I'm not using the 50-11 anyway, I like that. 'Crossers like it with good reason.
Trek rep stopped by with some goodies. Took the front end apart on the madone. Cool split headset spacers that interlock with each other. Also cable routing through the handlebar is pretty straight forward. Didn't take any pics of the process. This was a 56 di2 build. 15.1 lbs.
hi guys. I am pretty sure I know the answer to this question, but couldn't help it. This frame is not compatible with Campagnolo drive train is it?
The tt on the tiny green frame (the reivew) looks way too curved and makes the whole bike look weird, perhaps it's to do with the geometry. But apart from that it's probably the best looking aero bike at the minute!
The tt on the tiny green frame (the reivew) looks way too curved and makes the whole bike look weird, perhaps it's to do with the geometry. But apart from that it's probably the best looking aero bike at the minute!
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