Building a crit bike

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Derf
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:23 pm

by Derf

I'm betting against durability being much different with regards to Al vs CF. Save maybe a TT dent from a handlebar. Probably more variation model vs model than material selection.

Alloy bikes do tend to be cheaper, and generally that's the governing rule.

Whoever talked about being more aggressive on a cheaper bike is nuts...the cost of putting the human back together after a crash swamps any cost differential. :)

I'd be picking the cheapest aero bike frame I could that has 105 or better. Crits are fast, where any aero advantage pays dividends

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F45
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by F45

I'd race a CAAD 3 with 105 5800 and Chinese tubulars. No way am I risking thousands on the riding abilities of a hundred other dudes!

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micky
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by micky

I race around 40 crits per year usually and in the past 5 years I crashed only once; I always genuinely wonder why so many crashes abroad.

Back on topic, I would buy the best bike for the buck by starting by some proven groupset like the usual Ultegra or Force.

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showdown
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by showdown

If you're racing crits in the USA (where else would you be racing crits...) You can't go wrong with a Rival or Force group as SRAM provide NRS to a majority of the events around the country and given their very low price point replacing a derailleur that gets sheared or a shifter that gets damaged is a lot more palatable than something more expensive.

I'm not sure aero matters all that much on a crit course where you're in a pack most of the time and changing directions quite a bit (headwind into crosswind into tailwind etc...)

That said, in the Master 1/2 categories and the P/1/2 fields there are so few crashes. Do your best to get out of the 4's and 3's as quickly as you can. Also, off the front is the safest place in a crit ;)

Then again I race a C60 with Di2 and Mavic CCU's in the Masters and P12

mimason
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by mimason

Caad10 or maybe Giant TCR alu with SRAM Force and November Rail 52s.

MiloAS
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by MiloAS

Thanks a lot for this, I really had no idea that al and carbon had similar durabilities. There's a sweet deal on the canyon ultimate cf sl (as someone mentioned), and that looks v. tempting now.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I have rule only race what i can afford to replace. the frame i race on is a £200 forum buy. I have spent alot of on the kit but in a crash that damages the frame not all of the kit will be wrecked and a steel frame if i choose can be repaired. As for wheels zipps are expesnive hense my suggestion of chinese carbon rims which give you the benefits you need without the price tag. However you could be quite succesful on a set of wheels based around some bhs hubs and a cheap kinlin xc279 rim. Dont go wild with the budget as racing is about how fit you are not how fancy your bike is.

Fortunatley i have not crashed yet but it will happen one day it is unavoidable. Nearly happened tonight when i felt shifter hoods in my thigh.

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marcello
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by marcello

Thank you all for the advise :)

Yesterday i've spoken to a friend who ride crits/races and he advise my to use my current bike. And thats a Specialized Tarmac.
Just put another set of wheels on it and ride!
:noidea:

Image

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kkibbler
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by kkibbler

^^Sure why not.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Of course you should use that you already own it. its perfect for the job.

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Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez
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by Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez

By crit bike vs "stage race bike", I'd also think about a more agressive setup like lower stack and narrow bars., may be even adjust your saddle position very slightly without going crazy on muscle and joints adaptation.

Very stiff frame with shorter wheelbase, one bottle cage, these things are crit-specific.

About the groupset, Ultegra or 105 is fine for whatever races so of course for crits if you assume you can crash something more often, as are chinese carbon wheels with 25mm tubes.

Get a aero helmet and suit you're the perfect crit racer, better shine!

Johnnysmooth
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by Johnnysmooth

bm0p700f wrote:Of course you should use that you already own it. its perfect for the job.


Agree, just don't get to upset if it gets banged up a little. And as previous poster said, move up out of Cat 4&5 as fast as possible as there is a lot of muscle in those categories but little skill.

Also, if you do race tubulars, please ck them (are they securely glued) before each race - I've seen a lot of rolled tires in crits.
It only hurts if you think.

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marcello
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by marcello

I've got now a pair of Fulcrum R3 in the Tarmac, but what about deep carbon wheels? (no tubes)

Marin
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by Marin

Another thread where this carbon vs metal comaprison needs to go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xreZdUBqpJs :D :D :D

Get a cheap carbon frame (Canyon, or Chinese if you can't live with the brand image), 50mm carbon wheels, and 105/Rival/Force/Ultegra components. Use SRAM if you want light.

You can easily build up a bombproof 6.5kg bike with your budget if you go Chinese carbon. I did.

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MiloAS
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by MiloAS

Marin wrote:Another thread where this carbon vs metal comaprison needs to go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xreZdUBqpJs :D :D :D

Get a cheap carbon frame (Canyon, or Chinese if you can't live with the brand image), 50mm carbon wheels, and 105/Rival/Force/Ultegra components. Use SRAM if you want light.

You can easily build up a bombproof 6.5kg bike with your budget if you go Chinese carbon. I did.


Not all carbon is built equal surely? Santa Cruz mtb layup isn't going to be anything like a racing bike. I don't know this as a fact, just speculating.

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