96g saddle-seatpost combo & new bike weight 3,392g

[FreaK]

I love the Wert crankset on Gunters bike. My favourite part on it

I have to agree. His cranks are awesome.

[donald]

Hammer time, I still have the dash saddle. I was not sure how things would work out making the combo, and so I did not want to experiment with the dash saddle. But yes, it would have been at least 10 grams lighter. Maybe at some time I will make a combo with it. I have been putting a lot of miles on my Rue, no problems with my combo. Being a long time weight weenie, in general, I have a good knack for what and how to modify and make things.

[kevosinn]

man I love this bike....such an inspiration for my build (currently 4.6 kg) There is so many little places I can see here that I can also take advantage of on my bike to shave more weight. My ultimate goal is under 4.5. Im going to be starting a new project soon with a similar set up and down tube shifters. I unfortunately take a 56 cm frame so I gain frame and fork weight but I find it a fun challenge. Thanks again for sharing!

[carhillclimb]

Donald;
Can you describe what you did to lighten the "Fred Johnson" rims? It appears that you have drilled the rim between the visible spoke holes with many small holes in line with the existing spoke holes, and I am guessing on the inside you have a lot of holes between the spoke nipple access holes covered by the rim strip. Correct? Can you tell us approximate dimensions and number, so we can emulate your work?

I have searched in my own weak way, and have not found anything.

My lightest clinchers are Dash hubs, earlier Stans alpha340 rims and I believe steel light pillar spokes. 1105grams for the pair.
My second lightest clinchers are BikeHubStore hubs, American Classic ACRD-2218 rims and light pillar spokes. 1265grams for the pair.

Michael Wilson

[BmanX]

I am so holding onto my old AC Sprint 350 wheels and when those hubs die, I am going to get some lighter hubs and have some nice light clinchers.

[donald]

michael, You are correct. On many of my rims I drill holes between the existing spoke holes, and I used to drill extra holes on the inside between the spoke nipple acess holes, but I don't do that part anymore. Sometimes, on a few rims I have also sanded a little on the sides on the rim. Sometimes on some rims, instead of drilling holes between the spoke holes, I would drill one hole about 15 mm. from the spoke and use a dremel cut off wheel to cut out sections to the next hole 15 mm. from the next spoke. I always use a small dremel bit to smooth the inside and outside of either drilled holes or the cut out sections. I use tape for the drilled rims, and often pieces of carbon fiber veneer glued to cover the cut out sections. You can start out by not drilling as many holes as I usually do, starting about 15 mm. from the spoke. I always mark where I am going to drill and before I drill I use a dremel bit to start the hole so the drill doesn't slip when I begin drilling. In over 20 years of doing this I have never had a problem because of this modification I have raced many, many times on drilled rims, rode on some very rough roads, and again, never a problem, and this is on some 16 and 18 hole rims. But usually on the 16 hole rims I would leave a 10 mm. section not drilled in the middle area halfway between the spokes. You can save a fair amount of weight by doing this. I wish you well if you do this, if you do I don't think you will have a problem with the wheel holding up to normal use.

[mattjevans]

Have you considered going 1x ?

[donald]

I have not considered a 1X. I like a close ratio cassette and with long, steep climbs I feel a double is best for me.

[sawyer]

Could you make the shifter levers a bit shorter to save a few grams?

And perhaps chop off a few mil from the ends of your handlebars?

[donald]

Sawyer, The levers are cut out in the top center part, they are already very light. On some carbon bars I have sanded the inside of the ends, about 20 mm. or so, making that area very thin, instead of cutting the bars down. Schmolke bars are not very long to begin with. about 30 years ago I first started drilling out the sides of about 4 to 5 cm. of handlebar ends on aluminum bars. Never had a problem with that. there are a few more things I could do to lose more grams, and in time I probably will. I have spent so much time in the past 40 years racing, club rides and just working on my bikes that I now just spend some of the time I would spend working on my bikes doing more things with my wife. Some of us with wives and kids sometimes need to spend a little less time with the very time consuming modification of parts. My wife has endured all those years of my strong need to do all this, and I am happy to cut back some.

[jvanv8]

The Dash seat somehow makes me think about the movie RAD. Perhaps I'm new to Dash saddles, but they do look small. It's not innately a bad thing, but the smaller the saddle, the more important the fit becomes (which a quick search on WW or any cycling forum will reveal that saddle fit is already hard to achieve). If it's completely comfortable to you, then - well done!... And give us all some feedback to tell us if we might be happy with the mini-saddle structure.

The bottle cage is 4.5 grams with the two nylon bolts, I have had it about 10 years, never had a bottle pop out.

Is the cage a Tune Skyline?? I tried this cage once (literally) and it wasn't nearly as good as the original Tune Wassertrager. I have lost 4-6 bottles in 6 years and ride on rough roads frequently and off-road/dirt almost every ride. All of my bottle losses were either on very rough pave or off-road where an MTB would be a better fit. If I rode with others and lost a bottle, they typically did too with conventional cages. But the Skyline, for its marginal weight loss, didn't hold the bottle nearly as well or it jammed the bottle so it was impossible to retrieve unless I stopped to pull it out.

But, to back you up, some have bashed the chainrings saying they look fragile or will "fold". Although my experience does not include any drilling mods and I also have a standard 53-39T, anyone who has outfitted their bike with a Fibre-Lyte chainring will know that this is not the case. I actually prefer the ride quality of my Fibre-Lyte to my alternative set (Praxis Works). In a race situation or if shifting front chainrings quickly, often, and under load, the Praxis will likely shift better, but otherwise I prefer smooth and quiet feel of the Fibre-Lyte. I will post a long-term review on my build page go more into depth in a few weeks if anyone is interested.

What cassette and what tires are you using for the weigh in? Have you tried others (pros/cons)?

[BONJUNGU]

This is perfect build!!

[donald]

jvanv8, dash has different models. I don't know what they have right now but this small saddle fits me very well and I have never had any kind of problem using it. I might have it made into a combo. It is 32 grams right now, but with the rails cut off, I'm guessing it might be around 19 grams. With a uber light shaft perhaps I could have a combo that weighs around 79 grams. I have been using my 96 gram combo lately so right now the dash is not being used. I don't remember exactly which bottle cage I have, I think I bought it from BTP a long time ago. I never had a bottle pop out. when the bottle is a little hard to get out, put two fingers under the bottle and with your thumb, push a little on the front center bottom part of the cage as you are pushing the bottle up with your fingers . I have used fibre-lytes for for over 15 years and overall they have worked very well for me.

[prendrefeu]

Any pictures those bar end caps?

[danbjpa]

and if possible one picture of the seatpost clamp too. seems glued since Dash/post but if you switched to combo...


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