Fitting SiSL2 to Supersix Evo and struggling with the PF30..

[573]

Hi, I have a Supersix Evo Red. I'm in the process of removing the SRAM S951 crankset and fitting a Hollowgram SiSL2. I thought it should be straightforward but it's not been so far.

The SRAM crankset is removed, and the SRAM PF30 BB is removed too. The SiSL2 comes with new aluminium cups that you press in. I've done this with the proper Park tool. Next, there are a pair of FSA 6806-2rs ceramic bearings, the ones with the green dust seal. I pressed these in and they've gone from being nice and smooth to really tight. In fact they hardly turn. The driveside crank and spindle will slide in with a bit of effort but it's really stiff to turn and notchy, so something isn't right. I'm pretty sure I've damaged the bearings so will need to grab some new ones but am keen to understand what I've done wrong so I can avoid doing it again.

The kit has what look a bit like a pair of circlips, but I can't see where they fit into the whole thing and wonder if that's part of my problem? They're on the bottom right of this picture.



Any help or a link to an installation manual for the cups / bearings would be appreciated!

[573]

I'm wondering, are they to use if you have a CAAD, and therefore BB30, instead of the PF30 aluminium cups you use on the Evo?

[uraqt]

Not an expert, but the I think the circlips are for BB30 not PF30 ....

With BB30 there is a groove for the circlips that stop the bearings form sliding to far inside the bottom bracket.

I don't know about the new bearings but they should run smooth, all the PF30 bearings I have see have the bearings pushed in the cups from the factory. So usually cups and bearings are one unit.


C

[573]

Yeah the ones I know of already have the bearings in the cups.

This shows what they ones I have are like: http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Cannon ... p_480.html

They're much lighter than the SRAM PF30 that came out!

The above link mentions instructions. Does anyone have a copy of them??

[2old4this]

I have a '12 Cdale s6 that I replaced the pf30. I did not get any cups from Cdale, just installed sram ones (which have the bearings already installed), and sisl2. Ended up having an extra pair of bearings...
My suspicion is that you pressed the bearings in too much into the aluminum cups you have.
If you want to use your FSA bearings, just buy a pf30 set from sram, carefully remove the bearings from the plastic cups (do it slowly, without demaging the cups), and install the fsa ones. I just did it last Nowember
And your BB will attempt to engage a sort of conversation with you. First, you'll think your BB is simply creaking. Then you'll attempt fixing it multiple times (which will fail). Next, you'll buy a new BB (which will not solve the problem.) You'll start hating Cdale for coming up with BB30 (for the record, cursing does not help, but you will feel better.) You'll think about selling the frame (shame on you) but will change your mind. And finally your friend will suggest using blue locktight. Creaking will be gone, but you will decide keeping your older BSA frames...

[573]

I also suspect I pushed the bearings in too far. There was no indication they'd gone in far enough though... For reference, there's no need to buy SRAM bearings and push them out of the cups. A 6806 is just a generic bearing. You'll pay multiple times what they cost elsewhere I you get them from a cycling supplier.

I guess the main problem I have is that you shouldn't really press on the bearing as you'll damage them, but there's no other way to get them in, so I wanted to know how the instructions suggest you're supposed to do it.

[kkibbler]

Everything I've read on Park Tool and Cdale manual indicates that the bearings go into the cups first, then the cups are pressed into the frame. You could have damaged your bearings pressing them directly.

*not an expert

[573]

Have sorted this out now. Yesterday while pushing the bearings in using the Park HHP-2 I was concerned the bearings would get deformed. I used an old bearing shield in an attempt to distribute the load. I assume it flexed and the bearings got trashed. I didn't realise the Park BBT-30.3 existed. In this kit, along with the bearing removal tool you get 2 formed BB30 bearing press tools. Using these with the HHP-2 has allowed me to press 2 new generic 6806-2rs bearings in with ease. Both spin freely and the crank slid in like butter. Hopefully this helps someone trying to do the same in future.

[rheosibal]

Glad you got it sorted. Was going to suggest using the BBT 30.3 tool instead.

For anyone else, when I swapped my S951 for SiSl2's, just keep the Sram PF30 cups/bearings and it basically becomes an easy plug-n-play.