new bike - are cranks on ok? (with photo)

[ednino]

New bike arrived (CAAD10 RACE) and has Hollowgram Si BB30 crankset. I've only ever had Shimano before. My CAAD9 has Ultegra cranks. Do this photo look right? It looks to me like the non drive side should be more flush fitting. But it's not.
Looks like there is a gap that shouldn't be there.
Am I wrong?



thanks

[Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez]

You forgot a space washer on the drive side

Did the same mistake at first attempt ah

[Svetty]

As long as there is some compression of the wavy washer - which it looks like there is - it's fine.

[deek]

I usually shoot for more compression than that on the wave washer. Cannondale's instruction's simply say that it needs "a slight wave and is not loose," but that seems like a pretty broad range and I shoot for the middle. Maybe add a couple of 0.5mm clear plastic shims.

http://media.cannondale.com/media/uploa ... r_1012.pdf

[r3awak3n]

It looks good to me, mine is definitely a bit more compressed so if you want to add the shims you can but I don't think you need to. Take it for a ride and see if it works ok.

[Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez]

It definitely misses spacer or shims (don't know how you call that) on the drive side

I'm pretty sure it was better after installation and the bottom bracket slipped on the left/non drive side while pedalling? (that's what happened to me)

Would be curious to see a picture of the drive side I'm sure the back of the spider is dramatically close to the frame cups. Chainrings might even be too close to chainstays. In the end your Q factor isn't even symetric

[shoemakerpom2010]

They look ok except you might want to go with another .5mm shim like on these directions:

http://media.cannondale.com/media/uploa ... r_1012.pdf

[Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez]

But on this PDF the shims are on the non drive side, they should be on the drive side to get the right symetry on the OP issue?

[bikedoc]

Nearly every cannondale were building at the shop lately has come without enough spacers on the BB,

[shoemakerpom2010]

You are correct. If the spindle is the new 109mm then the shims are in the non-drive side as in the pdf because the spindle has no lip. If its the 104mm spindle then the shims are on the drive side. The way yours looks like it has the 109mm spindle if they installed it that way because the 104mm spindle has to have the shims on the drive side due to the lip on the spindle.

[Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez]

^Must be this.

Hard to tell with this angle, but the spider looks really close to the frame which would be the same mistake I did.

[ms6073]

Agree that there appears to be a lack of sufficient compression of the wave spring which could be illustrated by taking thumbs and applying lateral pressure towards the bb on the nds crankarm. If you can compress the wavespring in that manner, then I would think there needs to be another .5mm shim but can't say which side without an image of the drive side. Also seems to me that the NDS bearing is not pressed far enough into the bottom bracket shell as the bearing shield on our (non-Cannondale) cross bikes sits flush or slightly recessed inboard.

[ednino]

Can't compress it with my thumbs. Ridden it & it's all solid. Drive side looks fine. I didn't build it, it came from the shop like this. It's a 2015 CAAD10
Race

[rossjm11]

Put another spacer in there... I make sure mine is basically flush everytime. I had a similar look going when I installed my latest BB30 crankset. Added another washer and it filled that space right up. I am pretty sure it doesn't really matter too much how compressed the washer is. I do not like the idea of road grime being able to get into that little space. As long as you get it to the right torque, it should be fine, but by adding a washer(s) you can get it flush.

[ednino]

I have no idea how these cranks come apart lol.
If it's not Shimano HT2 I'm clueless