crank choices PF30 -
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi,
I am thinking i want to lighten up my Noah and cranks are something i want to address. Since it is a PF30 frame i want to stick to BB's that are built for PF30 if possible avoiding adaptors etc which add weight. I want to achieve as close as possible to Dura ace performance (9000) and reliability and shifting quality as possible and lose some weight down there.
My investigations suggest my options i have are
1) 2015 FSA SLK-Light (no idea is anyone owns this yet)
2) Cannondale Hollowgram SiSL2 (which chainrings though? Fsa gossimer, spider, other? and why)
3) Sram Red 22 BB30 crank - unsure of how this compares to above
4) do Rotor do something in bb30 that compares?
https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/reviews-an ... k-testing/
this report seems all pretty technical, real world experience is what i am chasing, and i guess in real terms shifting i would like to prioritise also as they are all lighter options than 9000 crank with an adaptor. Also with something like hollowgram my concern is future replacability of chain rings - i am guessing that FSA and the like will always make spider based cranks.
I am thinking i want to lighten up my Noah and cranks are something i want to address. Since it is a PF30 frame i want to stick to BB's that are built for PF30 if possible avoiding adaptors etc which add weight. I want to achieve as close as possible to Dura ace performance (9000) and reliability and shifting quality as possible and lose some weight down there.
My investigations suggest my options i have are
1) 2015 FSA SLK-Light (no idea is anyone owns this yet)
2) Cannondale Hollowgram SiSL2 (which chainrings though? Fsa gossimer, spider, other? and why)
3) Sram Red 22 BB30 crank - unsure of how this compares to above
4) do Rotor do something in bb30 that compares?
https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/reviews-an ... k-testing/
this report seems all pretty technical, real world experience is what i am chasing, and i guess in real terms shifting i would like to prioritise also as they are all lighter options than 9000 crank with an adaptor. Also with something like hollowgram my concern is future replacability of chain rings - i am guessing that FSA and the like will always make spider based cranks.
You could add Specialized to the list. Very stiff and low weight, works with PF30. The Specialized will take any standard 5 bolt chainring. Many people like the Praxis.
The Red22 is also a good crank, but your chainring choices are a little more limited because of the hidden bolt.
I'm not a fan of the new FSA cranks because of their strange non-standard 5 bolt chainrings. Nothing else will work on them. I don't know how well they shift.
The Hollowgrams can be set up with the Spidering or with a 5 arm spider that will take standard chainrings.
The Red22 is also a good crank, but your chainring choices are a little more limited because of the hidden bolt.
I'm not a fan of the new FSA cranks because of their strange non-standard 5 bolt chainrings. Nothing else will work on them. I don't know how well they shift.
The Hollowgrams can be set up with the Spidering or with a 5 arm spider that will take standard chainrings.
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Other thing to consider is power meter compatibility. The lightest crank based power meter is a stages si arm with a SISL2 + spidering. In the future having a 4iii mounted to an SISL2 NDS arm will be the lightest. Shifting is more dependant on chainrings than the crank itself.
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i have edited the original list and am now thinking its down to:
- Rotor 3D+ with Praxis rings (the new 2015 looks different graphics wise? - does anyone know if the crank itself if different?)
- SISL2 with cannondale spider and praxis rings to keep cost down; This is big bucks option by the looks.
- Red 22 is the cheapest but would need to fit other chainrings (e.g. praxis) and sounds a bit difficult;
I am not a power meter guy (at least not on this bike) so we need not stress over that.
scrap the specialized on having s-works written on it. for some reason cannondale doesnt worry me.
- Rotor 3D+ with Praxis rings (the new 2015 looks different graphics wise? - does anyone know if the crank itself if different?)
- SISL2 with cannondale spider and praxis rings to keep cost down; This is big bucks option by the looks.
- Red 22 is the cheapest but would need to fit other chainrings (e.g. praxis) and sounds a bit difficult;
I am not a power meter guy (at least not on this bike) so we need not stress over that.
scrap the specialized on having s-works written on it. for some reason cannondale doesnt worry me.
If you're looking for a pure BB30/PF30 crankset then you will need to remove Rotor from your list since it is adaptable to many different standards.
FSA used to make BB30-specific cranksets, but it appears that they only make 386EVO now, which is adaptable to many different standards. That means spacers for a PF30 bike. You could find an older one that is a pure BB30. The older ones also use the standard 5 arm 110mm or 130mm chainrings.
If you are allowing these two cranks on your list, then that opens up other possibilities, since there are lots of cranks that will adapt to PF30.
If the graphics on the Specialized bother you, then they can be removed. It looks great once they are removed and is an excellent pure BB30 crank. I think the weight of the Specialized in the Fairwheel crank test is too high. I queried them on it and didn't get a clear answer. Either the brand new ones have put on a lot of weight, or they had very heavy chainrings, or...? They should be around the weight of the Cannondales. With the carbon spider and light chainrings they can be below 600g.
As noted above, the shifting will depend on the chainrings.
FSA used to make BB30-specific cranksets, but it appears that they only make 386EVO now, which is adaptable to many different standards. That means spacers for a PF30 bike. You could find an older one that is a pure BB30. The older ones also use the standard 5 arm 110mm or 130mm chainrings.
If you are allowing these two cranks on your list, then that opens up other possibilities, since there are lots of cranks that will adapt to PF30.
If the graphics on the Specialized bother you, then they can be removed. It looks great once they are removed and is an excellent pure BB30 crank. I think the weight of the Specialized in the Fairwheel crank test is too high. I queried them on it and didn't get a clear answer. Either the brand new ones have put on a lot of weight, or they had very heavy chainrings, or...? They should be around the weight of the Cannondales. With the carbon spider and light chainrings they can be below 600g.
As noted above, the shifting will depend on the chainrings.
If you want to keep the performance to DA, you should strongly consider SISL2 + spidering. The combo will be stiff, light, and the spidering shifts the second best after DA (that is my opinion anyways.) The only downside is you'll only have two choices for the chain size.
jeffy wrote:2old4this wrote:The only downside is you'll only have two choices for the chain size.
what do you mean by this
(i assume chainset sizes. no semi compact available)
Oops! That should have been chainset. You have standard and compact spiderings. Nothing else, no mix and match....
Hi, I cant add any advice, but i'm interested too as I have PF30 frame, and have considered the above chainsets too, but I am now probably going to go for DA 9000, as its is available in many sizes, and at mega discounts. Its also light, but would need the praxis, KCNC or wheels or similar convertor, that unfortunately seems to weigh around 140g
Is this a better option than the specific ones though? The cannondale Spider set up looks awesome, and is light stiff etc... but its twice the price!
The other one I'm looking at is Campagnolo's 2015 4 arm Ultra torque chainsets, am I correct in thinking they too offer specific press fit cups, to suit the chainset without the need or weight of a convertor?
Is this a better option than the specific ones though? The cannondale Spider set up looks awesome, and is light stiff etc... but its twice the price!
The other one I'm looking at is Campagnolo's 2015 4 arm Ultra torque chainsets, am I correct in thinking they too offer specific press fit cups, to suit the chainset without the need or weight of a convertor?
I've had two SISL2 cranksets for a few years now with Spiderrings. Overall I'm very happy with the stiffness and light weight. The spiderrings shift almost as well as pure DA. The only downside is the paint on the crankarms is so thin that it will blemish easily.
I just went through the same decision and ended up going with a like new BB30 Red 22 crankset I got from a private seller in my area. The gram savings in the more expensive cranksets are just not very much.
The crankset with no rings, bolts, or BB was 358 grams.
Stock rings (34/50) were 178 grams.
Stock bolts were 10 grams.
Steel bb bearings were 47 grams.
My old FSA rings were 135 grams for the set so I just spray painted them black and put them on while I wait for an ST2 big ring. It actually looks pretty good.
Total weight now is 550g.
With sub 100 gram Extralight rings and ceramic bb it would be near 500 grams.
I wasn't concerned with the "hidden bolt" chainring fitment because rings are cheap and I have a dremel and a vertical mill and I know how to use them.
It's actually quite easy to get them to fit. To move the chain drop pin, you'll need some aluminum bar stock and a press (though a vice will do if you are skilled)
Total cost $150 + $70 ST2 = $220.
The crankset with no rings, bolts, or BB was 358 grams.
Stock rings (34/50) were 178 grams.
Stock bolts were 10 grams.
Steel bb bearings were 47 grams.
My old FSA rings were 135 grams for the set so I just spray painted them black and put them on while I wait for an ST2 big ring. It actually looks pretty good.
Total weight now is 550g.
With sub 100 gram Extralight rings and ceramic bb it would be near 500 grams.
I wasn't concerned with the "hidden bolt" chainring fitment because rings are cheap and I have a dremel and a vertical mill and I know how to use them.
It's actually quite easy to get them to fit. To move the chain drop pin, you'll need some aluminum bar stock and a press (though a vice will do if you are skilled)
Total cost $150 + $70 ST2 = $220.
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com