Campagnolo Ultra Torque Removal Help
Moderator: robbosmans
Thanks for the reference points and info. I have the c clip on all my bikes apart from one which has a P2M power meter. The spider plus the size of BB area means I just could not get it on and if I had got it on no idea how I would get it off!
I will watch out for issues but so far works just the same as the other cranksets with the clip installed
I will watch out for issues but so far works just the same as the other cranksets with the clip installed
- bikerjulio
- Posts: 1900
- Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
- Location: Welland, Ontario
The clip needs to be seated before the NDS half of the crank is installed.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
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random101 wrote:bikerjulio wrote:If the clip on the DS is not there then they were not correctly installed. I would double check.
On my P2M I can't fit the safety clip, if I do it grabs the crank (not allowing it to spin), the wave washer is installed, correct torque is applied not sure what it can be
Fits just fine on my Campagnolo P2M, Colnago C59 frame. Edit: 2015 version of cranks.
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- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:10 pm
random101 wrote:bikerjulio wrote:If the clip on the DS is not there then they were not correctly installed. I would double check.
On my P2M I can't fit the safety clip, if I do it grabs the crank (not allowing it to spin), the wave washer is installed, correct torque is applied not sure what it can be
The safety clip for power meters has a lower profile that the normal Campag one.
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- Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:59 pm
- Location: Reading, UK
Our household has two bike with UT cranks. The clip is installed as recommended on one bike, but I took it out on my wife's bike, because on two different occasions it had somehow ripped up the seal on the bearing, which then had to be replaced. It seems to work fine without it.
If the function of the clip is really to stop the drive side bearing from moving about, then the clip does seem a bit under-engineered for that purpose. If the whole system has enough slack in it to allow movement of the bearing without the clip in place, then those two tiny prongs don't really seem like they'd be enough to resist all the movement.
If the function of the clip is really to stop the drive side bearing from moving about, then the clip does seem a bit under-engineered for that purpose. If the whole system has enough slack in it to allow movement of the bearing without the clip in place, then those two tiny prongs don't really seem like they'd be enough to resist all the movement.
It was mentioned earlier that the clip will not prevent all the movement, just kept to <.25mm. Due to BB specs, the BB distance may be slightly more than others and therefore, even with the clip removed, may be less than .25mm of play. If that is the case, you probably would not need the clip anyway.
Hi,
Clip is indeed there to prevent sideways movement, especially on undersize BB shells. Needed to keep the chainrings in the same place laterally. Quite obvious if you look at how the whole thing is constructed, the NDS bearing is a loose bearing which can move on crank and in the cup. You're lucky if you get away without the clip.
On P2M blocking: you have the lockring securing the PM to the crankarm on the wrong way round. The wide bit needs to go to the outside, otherwise the clip will lock in the grooves on the ring. Don't ask me how I know - pretty cross with P2M that they don't explain that in the manual. Also, getting the bearing off with the lock ring the wrong way round is a bear - the PT puller doesn't fit without grinding even if it is on right, stupid design imho. You have to lever it off with a screwdriver, count on needing a new bearing (I did). Works just fine with the lockring on the right way round.
Florian
Clip is indeed there to prevent sideways movement, especially on undersize BB shells. Needed to keep the chainrings in the same place laterally. Quite obvious if you look at how the whole thing is constructed, the NDS bearing is a loose bearing which can move on crank and in the cup. You're lucky if you get away without the clip.
On P2M blocking: you have the lockring securing the PM to the crankarm on the wrong way round. The wide bit needs to go to the outside, otherwise the clip will lock in the grooves on the ring. Don't ask me how I know - pretty cross with P2M that they don't explain that in the manual. Also, getting the bearing off with the lock ring the wrong way round is a bear - the PT puller doesn't fit without grinding even if it is on right, stupid design imho. You have to lever it off with a screwdriver, count on needing a new bearing (I did). Works just fine with the lockring on the right way round.
Florian
This thread has been helpful, but where can I buy the wavy washer and clip?
I recently purchased a frame that came with Ultra Torque cups - subsequently bought Record Ultra Torque cranks - I'm missing the wavy washer and the C-clip - any idea where I can buy these? thanks
I recently purchased a frame that came with Ultra Torque cups - subsequently bought Record Ultra Torque cranks - I'm missing the wavy washer and the C-clip - any idea where I can buy these? thanks
They come with the bearing cups. Anyone who's been using Campag for a while might have an old C-clip and wavy washer lying around.
I acquired a P2M Campagnolo chainset. It, and I think the Campag SRM also, have a hole in the driveside crankarm about 1cm away from the crank centre: I thought this was to allow access for unclipping the C-clip. I didn't fancy the fiddly nature of this and didn't install the C-clip. No issues, for the record.
I acquired a P2M Campagnolo chainset. It, and I think the Campag SRM also, have a hole in the driveside crankarm about 1cm away from the crank centre: I thought this was to allow access for unclipping the C-clip. I didn't fancy the fiddly nature of this and didn't install the C-clip. No issues, for the record.
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drhex wrote:Hi,
Clip is indeed there to prevent sideways movement, especially on undersize BB shells. Needed to keep the chainrings in the same place laterally. Quite obvious if you look at how the whole thing is constructed, the NDS bearing is a loose bearing which can move on crank and in the cup. You're lucky if you get away without the clip.
On P2M blocking: you have the lockring securing the PM to the crankarm on the wrong way round. The wide bit needs to go to the outside, otherwise the clip will lock in the grooves on the ring. Don't ask me how I know - pretty cross with P2M that they don't explain that in the manual. Also, getting the bearing off with the lock ring the wrong way round is a bear - the PT puller doesn't fit without grinding even if it is on right, stupid design imho. You have to lever it off with a screwdriver, count on needing a new bearing (I did). Works just fine with the lockring on the right way round.
Florian
Can the NDS bearing be actually pushed along the axle if the C clip isn't installed?