Why BSA Bottom Bracket is much durable than pressfit BB?
Moderator: robbosmans
I don't know about "negligence" but you certainly have to have it tight. And I'm not referring to Campy UT BB cups at all, those would be fine and you're right, they will not come loose because the bearings are not rolling directly against the cup shell. I'm referring to a generation, or two, before that where you might have loose bearings (cup and cone style) in the bottom bracket. Those are definitely susceptible to coming loose if the cups are not torqued very tight. I've seen more than one come loose just from riding, and yes, the shops who installed them clearly didn't install them tight enough in the first place. My point is, with English threads, they would never have come loose at all because of the directional forces involved.
Sorry, but the Italian threads for bottom brackets are just silly these days. There are no, and never were, any advantages to them. Other than being Italian, of course.
Sorry, but the Italian threads for bottom brackets are just silly these days. There are no, and never were, any advantages to them. Other than being Italian, of course.
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I have two BB30 bikes. One is using a Wheels Mfg threaded BB30 -> BSA collar, the other are BB30 bearings pressed into the frame. Once the bb30 bearing bike starts creaking, I'm moving over to a Praxis system. The headache just isn't worth it. The Wheels Mfg BB bike has been super quiet since day one.
I suspect it wasn't given a lot of thought except for maybe it was the standard way all threads were "meant to be"... righty tighty, lefty loosy. But with loose bearings rolling directly against the spindle and the cups (which were threaded into the frame), the rotation of the bearings against the cups could actually unscrew the cups out of the BB on the drive side. With BSA English threads the drive side was made with left hand threads, which eliminated that issue. Problem solved.
Today it doesn't really matter so much since the bearings aren't rolling around loose directly against the spindle and the cups. But there's no good reason to still be using them since the vast majority of bikes now are now made with either English threaded BB's or Pressfit concoctions using no threads at all. Problem created.
Today it doesn't really matter so much since the bearings aren't rolling around loose directly against the spindle and the cups. But there's no good reason to still be using them since the vast majority of bikes now are now made with either English threaded BB's or Pressfit concoctions using no threads at all. Problem created.
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Calnago wrote:I suspect it wasn't given a lot of thought except for maybe it was the standard way all threads were "meant to be"... righty tighty, lefty loosy.
Although the reasoning is outdated now there was abit more to it than that in the days pre CNC.
Please explain further. I'd love to know the whole story.
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I think the stiffness differences aren't necessarily as a result of the increased spindle width as it is the ability to widen the bottom bracket shell and improve stiffness of the frame junction around the bottom bracket. Hence BB86,BB90,BBright...
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What's the choices for high-end BSA frames?
My current metal bikes keep me happy enough, but for the n+1 rule (which would have to be carbon) what would be next?
I was tempted by a semi-bargain Cervello R5CA last year, but due to BBright decided against it.
Is half the problem threading carbon BB shells?
My current metal bikes keep me happy enough, but for the n+1 rule (which would have to be carbon) what would be next?
I was tempted by a semi-bargain Cervello R5CA last year, but due to BBright decided against it.
Is half the problem threading carbon BB shells?
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Its not just longevity, my cheap Tifosi BB on my training bike is way smoother/spins much more freely than my hollowgram/bb30 setup.
Jeeeezzz....you guys are making me feel happy to be on my old no-creaky Canyon CF with BSA.
Yup, bonding in that threaded sleeve is a pain, and adds to process time, risk of warranty if it debonds (not so common these days).WeightySteve wrote:Is half the problem threading carbon BB shells?
Of course, if your pressfit creaks due to out of spec bearing seats, that's your fault. Or the shops.
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Harmitc wrote:Calnago wrote:Sorry, but the Italian threads for bottom brackets are just silly these days. There are no, and never were, any advantages to them. Other than being Italian, of course.
Do you know why they were originally created?
Don't know for sure, but I thought it had something to do with the easyness to tap the threads on the BB:
You just need your tapping device to enter the BB at one side, and you keep on tapping untill it comes out the other side.
In this way, you always have a perfectly straight BB in terms of the threads.
with some Square taper BB (like Phil Wood), you don't even need to face the BB as the cups are not pushing against the sides of the BB but just sport the threads.
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