Why BSA Bottom Bracket is much durable than pressfit BB?
Moderator: robbosmans
It seems that the Chinese can do it easily, tons of fm066sl's-860g framesets,maybe not "high end" but only not so in the tube layup-running around with BSA, along with phony Tarmacs etc.
I think its more marketing than anything. Shimano had the opportunity to do it with DA98xx and didn't, that should tell you something.
I think its more marketing than anything. Shimano had the opportunity to do it with DA98xx and didn't, that should tell you something.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6. ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
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micky wrote:Jeeeezzz....you guys are making me feel happy to be on my old no-creaky Canyon CF with BSA.
I was thinking exactly the same - including the bike brand and model.
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Well they are 180g and last that good in my book. Currently slumbing it with a chorus bb's and these dont wear out either. I have been a long term user of square taper bb's and i have never had a problem with one. Although the bikes a i mainly riding at present have threaded external bb's but i have to spend a fair chunk of chnage on xtr and super record bb's to get something thats last as well and cheap square taper. Thats progress for you.
Hear is yet another take on thread together solutions for press fit woes, this time with some fiber reinforced plastic pieces to take up some slack between the alu cups and the frame. Not sure how I feel about that...on the one hand it is kind of like a lot of the cheesy non thread together cups that use plastic to "squish" a bit and make up for poor tolerances, which hasn't worked out well, but on the other hand, something has to make up for poor radial tolerances, as that isn't directly addressed by the threaded assembly providing a strong clamping force on the faces: http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/artic ... ket-44113/
I still like the Praxis concept of the expanding collet, but this "Legit" one apparently offers a 100% creak proof guarantee, which if they really back it up, takes some of the risk out of trying it out.
I still like the Praxis concept of the expanding collet, but this "Legit" one apparently offers a 100% creak proof guarantee, which if they really back it up, takes some of the risk out of trying it out.
Speaking for the un91 (and Dura Ace equivalent) they were disposable, two seasons and you had play in the crank. Earlier loose bearing versions would do half a season ish before they got play, then unless you adjusted the play out (and cleaned/regreased) within a few miles, the races would brinnell, and you'd need a new bottom bracket. You'd probably need a new one every year/18 months anyway.KLabs wrote:Just how good were the Campag Record and Shimano UN91 square taper bb's?
Going to the non sealed needle bearing octalink bottom brackets was a revelation. Fit, adjust after one ride, service yearly. The DA one I have is still in my CX bike. The XTR was retired when I went HTII, probably 7 or 8 years use. Still works fine. Both bought within months of them hitting the UK market.
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Ultegra external BB last me about 5000 mile on a faced shell so quite rubbish really. Record or chorus square taper BB's are my favourite as they fit my favourite chainsets, alloy and carbon record sqaure taper. Simply gorgeous and I struggle to see how anything made since is actually any better functionally. Lighter yes but carbon record square taper chainset and BB is only 730g.
KLabs wrote:Just how good were the Campag Record and Shimano UN91 square taper bb's?
My experience with Shimano's threaded cartridge bottom brackets (Dura Ace and Ultegra) were with Giant TCR alloy frames and other than having to install the bottom bracket with Teflon tape wrapped around the threads to prevent creaking, never had to replace one and that was in years where I was logging more than 15,000 Kms per year.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
hi everyone,
so i am new to the weight weenie world, and i come into it with a 2016 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi-Mod. thus, i am presented with the dreaded PF30A bb "standard". i am getting ready to strip the frame of its ultegra bits and put on mechanical SRAM red. i want to keep the hollowgram SI crank, though. since this thread seems full of people very knowledgeable about BBs, i figured i would ask my question here...
so, question: should i replace the bottom bracket with something thread-together à la Wheels MFG or C-bear? if so, is there one people can recommend? C-Bear seems only to provide conversion BBs, i.e. 30mm down to 24mm, or this one (https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/pf30 ... rotor-30mm) which does not seem to be compatible with the Hollowgram. as for Wheels MFG, there simply does not appear to be a PF30A option... unless i am missing something.
any advice (besides get a bike with a BSA bb )
thank you all,
o
p.s. sorry/heads up about the thread reanimation...
so i am new to the weight weenie world, and i come into it with a 2016 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi-Mod. thus, i am presented with the dreaded PF30A bb "standard". i am getting ready to strip the frame of its ultegra bits and put on mechanical SRAM red. i want to keep the hollowgram SI crank, though. since this thread seems full of people very knowledgeable about BBs, i figured i would ask my question here...
so, question: should i replace the bottom bracket with something thread-together à la Wheels MFG or C-bear? if so, is there one people can recommend? C-Bear seems only to provide conversion BBs, i.e. 30mm down to 24mm, or this one (https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/pf30 ... rotor-30mm) which does not seem to be compatible with the Hollowgram. as for Wheels MFG, there simply does not appear to be a PF30A option... unless i am missing something.
any advice (besides get a bike with a BSA bb )
thank you all,
o
p.s. sorry/heads up about the thread reanimation...
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de zwarten wrote:Harmitc wrote:Calnago wrote:Sorry, but the Italian threads for bottom brackets are just silly these days. There are no, and never were, any advantages to them. Other than being Italian, of course.
Do you know why they were originally created?
Don't know for sure, but I thought it had something to do with the easyness to tap the threads on the BB:
You just need your tapping device to enter the BB at one side, and you keep on tapping untill it comes out the other side.
In this way, you always have a perfectly straight BB in terms of the threads.
with some Square taper BB (like Phil Wood), you don't even need to face the BB as the cups are not pushing against the sides of the BB but just sport the threads.
I also heard frames with destroyed BSA threads could be bored out and cut to Italian threading due to the slightly larger diameter.
bremerradkurier wrote:de zwarten wrote:Harmitc wrote:Calnago wrote:Sorry, but the Italian threads for bottom brackets are just silly these days. There are no, and never were, any advantages to them. Other than being Italian, of course.
Do you know why they were originally created?
Don't know for sure, but I thought it had something to do with the easyness to tap the threads on the BB:
You just need your tapping device to enter the BB at one side, and you keep on tapping untill it comes out the other side.
In this way, you always have a perfectly straight BB in terms of the threads.
with some Square taper BB (like Phil Wood), you don't even need to face the BB as the cups are not pushing against the sides of the BB but just sport the threads.
I also heard frames with destroyed BSA threads could be bored out and cut to Italian threading due to the slightly larger diameter.
I thought the italian BB was slightly wider than BSA? 70 v 68mm
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