BMC TMR01 Di2 - A few questions......
Moderator: robbosmans
So I just got a new to me 2013 BMC TMR01 and was hoping someone might know a few things about it....
Here's the sellers crappy photo
Here is it after I swapped over a few parts
Questions....
- The seat post is slipping down. I looks to have some clear grip tape on the front, but I have not removed the seat post as I am told they are a pain due to the internal bolt falling down in the frame. Any thoughts, maybe add some carbon paste ?
- Anyone do any kind of aero water bottles ?
- I find the breaks weak compared to my CR1 with DA 7800, is there anything that might help this ?
It has Ultegra 6770 Di2, this is all new to me. I would like to know .....
- From what I have been told my real wheel freehub rides closer to the center than most, on my last bike the derailer had to be adjusted so it would move inward more to catch the largest sprocket. I tried to adjust this unit but it only wants to go as far as the 2nd to the last sprocket so I can only use 9 gears, not 10. Any thoughts ?
- I was thinking of moving the battery so it would lay sideways and tuck under the bottom bracket, right now its a bit of an eye sore.
Here is a stock photo showing the battery location
As far as the bike goes, its a joy to ride, very smooth and stable and of course fast. It came with 38cm bars and I like the size but not the shape so I may be changing them also.
I will start an owners thread with more photos, weights and details also.
Thx for now .
Here's the sellers crappy photo
Here is it after I swapped over a few parts
Questions....
- The seat post is slipping down. I looks to have some clear grip tape on the front, but I have not removed the seat post as I am told they are a pain due to the internal bolt falling down in the frame. Any thoughts, maybe add some carbon paste ?
- Anyone do any kind of aero water bottles ?
- I find the breaks weak compared to my CR1 with DA 7800, is there anything that might help this ?
It has Ultegra 6770 Di2, this is all new to me. I would like to know .....
- From what I have been told my real wheel freehub rides closer to the center than most, on my last bike the derailer had to be adjusted so it would move inward more to catch the largest sprocket. I tried to adjust this unit but it only wants to go as far as the 2nd to the last sprocket so I can only use 9 gears, not 10. Any thoughts ?
- I was thinking of moving the battery so it would lay sideways and tuck under the bottom bracket, right now its a bit of an eye sore.
Here is a stock photo showing the battery location
As far as the bike goes, its a joy to ride, very smooth and stable and of course fast. It came with 38cm bars and I like the size but not the shape so I may be changing them also.
I will start an owners thread with more photos, weights and details also.
Thx for now .
C64 My Sixty 4 SR EPS 12
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Have you tried to fully loosen the low adjustment bolt on the rear derailleur to see if it will move onto the largest sprocket. If this works then just re-tighten to the required point on the stop block.
I put carbon friction paste on my seat post and the top of the seat tube on my TMR01. Also have you checked the torque on the seat post bolt that's under the rubber cap on the top tube?
Although it's a small nuisance if the clamp does fall into the frame all you need to do is turn frame upside down and it will fall back out.
I hope this helps.
I put carbon friction paste on my seat post and the top of the seat tube on my TMR01. Also have you checked the torque on the seat post bolt that's under the rubber cap on the top tube?
Although it's a small nuisance if the clamp does fall into the frame all you need to do is turn frame upside down and it will fall back out.
I hope this helps.
the brakes are pretty strong and whilst not as easy to modulate as the 6800 brakes on the teammachine i've got, they are actually better for me.
Ensure the torque is right on the seat post tube. apply a small amount of carbon friction paste! i've got my battery behind the first bottle cage, its better for me.
i'm currently running Zipp SL70 bars, and they are the business, though at 40cm they may be a bit wide for some.
As for The rear mech and shifting, you’d be best to back the low limit up slightly so it sits on the lowest cog in the lower set of ratios. Currently I’ve got the 39 able to access the 25, 23 all the way up to the 12 on the lower ring and the 11 to the 23 on the big ring (54). That’s just personal preference.
I'm running 6870 and its the business.
Ensure the torque is right on the seat post tube. apply a small amount of carbon friction paste! i've got my battery behind the first bottle cage, its better for me.
i'm currently running Zipp SL70 bars, and they are the business, though at 40cm they may be a bit wide for some.
As for The rear mech and shifting, you’d be best to back the low limit up slightly so it sits on the lowest cog in the lower set of ratios. Currently I’ve got the 39 able to access the 25, 23 all the way up to the 12 on the lower ring and the 11 to the 23 on the big ring (54). That’s just personal preference.
I'm running 6870 and its the business.
If you're interested, BMC have the owners manuals and assembly videos available. These are for the current version of the frameset but it hasn't changed much since 2013
http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/int-en/support/manuals/timemachine-tmr01/
I've built my TMR01 using Dura Ace 9070 so have an internal mounted battery which looks a lot 'cleaner' so I can't advise in relocating the external battery.
http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/int-en/support/manuals/timemachine-tmr01/
I've built my TMR01 using Dura Ace 9070 so have an internal mounted battery which looks a lot 'cleaner' so I can't advise in relocating the external battery.
I have played with the seat post bolt to try and get it to not slip, looks like I need some carbon paste.
When I put my Carbon wheels on the rear derailer would not go into the largest sprocket and would drop the chain off the smallest sprocket to land in be-twine the cassette and the frame. So I fully backed away both of the adjustment bolts on the rear derailer and then set the 1 bolt so it would no longer drop the chain, but even with the other bolt backed all the way out it will still not go into the large sprocket.
Any other thoughts on this ?
When I put my Carbon wheels on the rear derailer would not go into the largest sprocket and would drop the chain off the smallest sprocket to land in be-twine the cassette and the frame. So I fully backed away both of the adjustment bolts on the rear derailer and then set the 1 bolt so it would no longer drop the chain, but even with the other bolt backed all the way out it will still not go into the large sprocket.
Any other thoughts on this ?
C64 My Sixty 4 SR EPS 12
I've only got a couple of ideas. Can you get onto the largest cassette sprocket when on the small ring at the front?
If yes then perhaps the chain has been cut too short.
If no, then you may need to tighten the main adjustment screw on the rear derailleur to create more clearance between the jockey wheel and the cassette.
Good luck!
If yes then perhaps the chain has been cut too short.
If no, then you may need to tighten the main adjustment screw on the rear derailleur to create more clearance between the jockey wheel and the cassette.
Good luck!
amb001 wrote:I've only got a couple of ideas. Can you get onto the largest cassette sprocket when on the small ring at the front?
No not by just using the shifter as it should. The only way I can get it to go on to the largest cassette is by manually pushing on the derailleur a bit. I just did this to test to see if it would indeed go, it does but it does not want to stay there.
amb001 wrote:If yes then perhaps the chain has been cut too short.
If no, then you may need to tighten the main adjustment screw on the rear derailleur to create more clearance between the jockey wheel and the cassette.
Good luck!
What screw ? I played with the min and max screws on the underside of the derailleur , that worked to stop the chain from going off past the smallest cassette, but its of no help to get it to travel more towards the last large cassette.
C64 My Sixty 4 SR EPS 12
As you can't get onto the largest sprocket at all I'd guess it's the chain length that's too short. What frame size do you have and how many teeth does your largest front ring have?
The screw i'm referring to is this one on the rear mech that is right by the mouting screw
The screw i'm referring to is this one on the rear mech that is right by the mouting screw
I've just seen your other thread with your bike spec listed. If your largest rear sprocket is a 28T then your chain should be a minimum of 53 inches.
If there's not enough clearance between the cassette and the jocky wheel on the rear mech then that may be preventing it moving across to the largest sprocket. Try winding in the screw I've highlighted above as this should create more clearance.
Hopefully one or the other of these ideas helps
If there's not enough clearance between the cassette and the jocky wheel on the rear mech then that may be preventing it moving across to the largest sprocket. Try winding in the screw I've highlighted above as this should create more clearance.
Hopefully one or the other of these ideas helps
amb001 wrote:I've just seen your other thread with your bike spec listed. If your largest rear sprocket is a 28T then your chain should be a minimum of 53 inches.
If there's not enough clearance between the cassette and the jocky wheel on the rear mech then that may be preventing it moving across to the largest sprocket. Try winding in the screw I've highlighted above as this should create more clearance.
Hopefully one or the other of these ideas helps
Just checked my chain the best I could on the bike, its a bit more that 53 inches. I had tied to adjust that screw to "open up" the derailleur for the 28T sprocket, it did not help. Just as a test I put the 11-25 cassette the bike came with on my wheel to see if my 11-28 cassette was the issue. Even with the 11-25 it still will not go into the largest sprocket, play with the main adjustment screw and it still will not work.
As I said up top I think its the way my free hub sits closer to the inside of my wheel that my be the issue. See below with teh 11-25 on, note the gap on the right, that's where the chain was dropping into. Its like my free hub needs to shift over closer to the frame 1/8"+ ...
C64 My Sixty 4 SR EPS 12
That's a huge gap between your driveside dropout and the first (small) cog. You will never get it to work with that setup. Is that a spacer or what? Something's going on with that wheel setup that you need to get sorted out.
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I suggest taking the cassette off the wheel and ensuring you have the required 1mm cassette spacer installed. I suspect you do not.
Still, even with the 1mm spacer required on 11sp wheels when running 10sp, looks to me like it needs to come over a fair bit further than that.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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