1x11 for road? Ultimate WW wet dream?

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djconnel
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by djconnel

Wrt 'cross worlds... Bike radar reported it could lose the chain in thick mud, so it's clearly not perfect. Maybe for ultimate security it still could use a chain guide. It's obviously not for everyone. I do predict it will be at Paris Roubaix.


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jooo
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by jooo

Zak wrote:Ok, here is a technical question:

I have a Cannondale Caad 9 for BSA bottom brackets. If I want to run a single chainring crankset with a 42 chainring what are my options?

Will the Sram CX1 crankset fit or will a mtb-crankset fit? Please specify which type af mtb-crankset will work.

thanks

Almost any normal road crank will work. Lots of companies make chain rings to suit, Race Face, Wolf Tooth, Hope, Absolute Black, Rotor, Praxis etc etc.

SRAM just use a CX1 chain ring on a normal Force22 crank. AFAIK you could use the same chain ring on pretty much any 110 BCD crank as long as you use their bolts.

Marin wrote:Let's not forget that the CX world championship this year was lost because of not one but TWO chain drops, on a 1x drivetrain:
http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/frustra ... s-the-best

So you obviously don't need to be Cavendouche and run a mix-and-match 2x system to drop your chain twice in short succession, you can do it on a factory standard 1x11 sytem too... :D

WVA crashing was probably just as big a factor in him not winning...

To be honest, I can't understand why many riders don't just run a guide. They don't need to weigh much and add insurance for rock gardens (or cobbles in this case). If the mud is bad enough to cause trouble for a guide in CX, it's going to cause problems for front and rear derailleurs too.

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refthimos
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by refthimos

I guess I am amazed at how many of you guys can ride a 39/23 no problem on big climbs. Considering that even top pros will switch to lower gear for big climbing stages (https://www.sram.com/news/sram-teams-adopt-compact-cranks-next-several-giro-stages), this leads me to believe that you guys either (1) need to contact a UCI WorldTeam and get signed, (2) may not encounter all that steep of climbs in your rides or (3) pedal at some pretty darn low cadences.

Let's take the climb to Mt. Baldy that someone mentioned earlier. It's an iconic SoCal climb and once again will serve as the summit finish of this year's queen stage of the Amgen Tour of California. It averages 10% for 2.8 miles. Here is the Strava segment: https://www.strava.com/segments/1171938.

In over 5,000 recorded attempts, only 2 riders have ever averaged 10mph up this climb. Both were pros competing in the 2012 Tour of California. But you guys are pretty badass and so let's say your time up Baldy gives you a 10mph average. With a 39/23, your average cadence will be 75 rpm. That's lower than what most people would view as ideal. And you would essentially need to be a pro to maintain that speed and cadence.

Let's say you are a mere mortal and can "only" manage in the Top 60 (out of 2,663) times up this climb. To do that, you need to average 8mph. And in that 39/23 of yours, that means your cadence now drops to an average of 60rpm. Again, lower than what most people would view as ideal.

The idea that a 39/23 is adequate gearing for riders who climb hills is tough to accept, particularly when UCI pros do not accept this gearing.
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Zak
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by Zak

Thanks for the answers.

Jooo: If I use a normal roadcrank and only use one chainring, then the one chainring will not be centered to the cassette. Right? Can I get around this or should I use a single chainring mountainbikecrank?

If so, does a mountainbike BSA crank fit a road BSA frame?

mattr
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by mattr

refthimos wrote:I guess I am amazed at how many of you guys can ride a 39/23 no problem on big climbs.
Whut? That was ONE poster.

Everyone else is talking about compacts/mid compacts and/or 25/28/30 tooth sprockets or some similar combination.

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tymon_tm
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by tymon_tm

I use 39/21 and 39/23 most of the time. I don't know any Mt Baldy but the hills i like climbing vary from 1 to 3 miles in lenght. I've no clue what's their gradient, some are steeper, and it hurts as hell to try to maintain a decent rhythm, some are totally possible to get through at even 39/21 - on a really good day that is. Of course trips to the Dolomites or other higher (and steeper) mountains require lower gears. I even have compact cranks somwhere that i used like 10 times in my life. The bottom line is - I go hard on every ride, 100% each and every time. I like to suffer on a bike-that's probably why i ride solo most od the time. I don't know exactly how many kilometers I do per year since I don't use any computers, but it's somwere around 15k kilometers. I don't race (hate racing..) but used to train with national U23 team. I turned 30 last winter and I do feel stronger each and every year
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weenie
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by weenie

looks like you could have a 39t 1x11 hahaha.

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by mattr

Not if they go with Narrow Wide!

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by mattjevans

Zak wrote:Thanks for the answers.

Jooo: If I use a normal roadcrank and only use one chainring, then the one chainring will not be centered to the cassette. Right? Can I get around this or should I use a single chainring mountainbikecrank?

If so, does a mountainbike BSA crank fit a road BSA frame?


Cx1 rings have an offset that centres them on the cassette for a decent chainline. As previous poster indicated, you can use them on any 5 bolt 110 bcd road crank

Some other rings , eg rotor, don't have this offset

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djconnel
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by djconnel

refthimos wrote:ILet's take the climb to Mt. Baldy that someone mentioned earlier. It's an iconic SoCal climb and once again will serve as the summit finish of this year's queen stage of the Amgen Tour of California. It averages 10% for 2.8 miles. Here is the Strava segment: https://www.strava.com/segments/1171938..
The idea that a 39/23 is adequate gearing for riders who climb hills is tough to accept, particularly when UCI pros do not accept this gearing.


By this logic everyone should be on a triple, because what if you decide to do a trans-continental loaded bike tour? The answer is you don't do trans-continental loaded bike tours, and that's fine. Similarly, only a very small minority of riders ever climb something as challenging as Mt Baldy. Even here in the SF Bay area, there's very few climbs with that sort of grade, and most riders never do them (Alba, Bohlman, Mix Canyon, Gates Canyon, .... err..... Alba....), and that's also fine.

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by RyanH

@refthimos, that was me and I'll admit that Baldy climb was terrible, but what I've seen is that most amateurs don't change from standard to compact (or vice versa) based on their route. If I had choices available to me (e.g. a climbing bike) it would be a compact with a 28 on the back and I would have picked that to ride. OTOH, I have a 28t cassette but often can't be bothered to put it on for one ride.

Excluding the end of Baldy, most of our mountain climbs are fairly reasonable grades (like Angeles Crest) and a 39-23 is sufficient to maintain 74 rpm:

https://www.strava.com/activities/124265878#2784724663

Our Sunday throwdown up Nichols Canyon (a 3mi climb), I can usually big ring that entire climb until the wall.

However, I think gearing options are great, but often in the hands of us mere mortals, it serves as a crutch since we have a tendency to go to the easier gear when it's available.

deek
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by deek

One advantage to 1x is that it is really easy to change your gearing. Doing Mt. Baldy? Put a smaller ring on. Doing a flat ride up Highway 1? Put a larger one one. With 2x, to change chainrings you would have to move your FD which is not worth the effort. You could also just change your cassette with 2x, but cassettes are generally more sensitive to differences in wear between themselves and the chain so switching chainrings is a better option.

bikedoc
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by bikedoc

What's wrong with 2 rings?

elSid
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by elSid

tymon_tm wrote:adding or substracting 6.5% from 90rpm means going at either ~84 or ~96 rpm. I'd say it's quite a jump, at least for me it is.


tymon_tm wrote:I use 39/21 and 39/23 most of the time. I don't know any Mt Baldy but the hills i like climbing vary from 1 to 3 miles in lenght. I've no clue what's their gradient, some are steeper, and it hurts as hell to try to maintain a decent rhythm, some are totally possible to get through at even 39/21 - on a really good day that is. Of course trips to the Dolomites or other higher (and steeper) mountains require lower gears. I even have compact cranks somwhere that i used like 10 times in my life. The bottom line is - I go hard on every ride, 100% each and every time. I like to suffer on a bike-that's probably why i ride solo most od the time. I don't know exactly how many kilometers I do per year since I don't use any computers, but it's somwere around 15k kilometers. I don't race (hate racing..) but used to train with national U23 team. I turned 30 last winter and I do feel stronger each and every year


Would you really notice a 6rpm variance whilst humping a 39x21 up the local hill (at 100%, of course)? And if so, how would you really know without a computer?

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by eliflap-scalpel

kgt wrote:+1
Some don't even remember (or know) that riders used to have a 1x setup for many years but technology introduced 2x just because it was way better.



better or easier ??? :D
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