crossing cables
Moderator: robbosmans
Got my CAAD10s cabling re done this week at the LBS, usually its a job I do myself but was out of town this week and needed it sorted for a race this weekend.
So got it back and noticed the mechanic has crossed the front and rear mech cables under the downtube. I understand why he did this as I had told him to route the cables so they go under my out front garmin mount and this way there is less bend in the cable around the headtube area as there would be if the cables were routed parallel.
So went for a spin today and eveything is shifting fine. However, Ive now noticed that due to the crossing cables, mid way down the downtube both the front and rear mech cables actually touch the downtube itself.
Now instantly I tell myself this isnt right as I know how fussy cables can be with any sort of interference, yet had no shifting issues today and I tell myself i should have faith in the mechanic, with that shop being a cannondale dealer as well.
What are your thoughts, will the cables touching the downtube be an issue?
Thanks
So got it back and noticed the mechanic has crossed the front and rear mech cables under the downtube. I understand why he did this as I had told him to route the cables so they go under my out front garmin mount and this way there is less bend in the cable around the headtube area as there would be if the cables were routed parallel.
So went for a spin today and eveything is shifting fine. However, Ive now noticed that due to the crossing cables, mid way down the downtube both the front and rear mech cables actually touch the downtube itself.
Now instantly I tell myself this isnt right as I know how fussy cables can be with any sort of interference, yet had no shifting issues today and I tell myself i should have faith in the mechanic, with that shop being a cannondale dealer as well.
What are your thoughts, will the cables touching the downtube be an issue?
Thanks
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I'm all for crossing cables as, like you noted, it can make for much smoother cable runs from the bars to the downtubes. I did this on my latest Trek Emonda build and think that it should be a no brainer to do that on any Emonda build. Or any build so long as no interference occurs elsewhere.
However, I always check the entry and exit points to make sure there are no little "kinks" anywhere, as there might be if the cable all of a sudden had to make a quick and sharp turn to enter the cable guide or something. And as well, with externally routed cables I eyeball the line first to see if there is potential for an easy cross without touching the downtube.
Personally, I would not have crossed cables in your case if the cables touch the downtube. It's not going to affect your shifting in any meaningful way, but do you really want moving steel cables rubbing on your paint? No, you don't. And for that reason, I wouldn't have done it. I guess it depends on how much it's actually rubbing on the downtube and if you care about the paint rub. Your call.
However, I always check the entry and exit points to make sure there are no little "kinks" anywhere, as there might be if the cable all of a sudden had to make a quick and sharp turn to enter the cable guide or something. And as well, with externally routed cables I eyeball the line first to see if there is potential for an easy cross without touching the downtube.
Personally, I would not have crossed cables in your case if the cables touch the downtube. It's not going to affect your shifting in any meaningful way, but do you really want moving steel cables rubbing on your paint? No, you don't. And for that reason, I wouldn't have done it. I guess it depends on how much it's actually rubbing on the downtube and if you care about the paint rub. Your call.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Yeah I figured it wont impact on shifting performance and theoretically I should have slightly better shifting with the reduced bend running around the headtube.
To be honest, the frames 5 years old. Ive got some clear patches I can stick on the downtube to stop any rubbing. Il live with that, suppose theres more important things in the world to worry about
To be honest, the frames 5 years old. Ive got some clear patches I can stick on the downtube to stop any rubbing. Il live with that, suppose theres more important things in the world to worry about
Yeah crossing cables is definitley better on smaller frames. I ride a 58cm so traditionally have never done this but since the invention of out front garmin mounts, Ive always struggled with smooth/neat cabling that runs underneath the garmin mount. Cross cabling solves this issue really well, but, as my post above explains has caused a bit of an issue else where.
Never mind, think Il buy some frame protector patches and see how it goes.
Never mind, think Il buy some frame protector patches and see how it goes.
i have cross cables on all my mechanical bikes. the smoother bends...and i have some slack in it so it doesn't even touch the head tube. has nothing to do with my Garmin out front. doesn't touch my down tube.
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- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
The clear adhesive patches are an excellent solution if they're only slightly interfering with the downtube. Didn't even think of that but will remember for the future. Especially since no ones going to see the patches under the downtube anyway. And with today's carbon frames it doesn't really matter if a bit of paint gets rubbed anyway. It's not like it's going to rust which was more of a concern when everything was made of steel. I'm dating myself... D'oh!
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
My cables are crossing ,too. I would cut some small pieces of hard rubber with a hole in the middle and a slit to pull them over the cables on that spot. Actually one for each cable should be enough. Like Nokon cable pearls but made from rubber and you would not need to uninstall your cables. As said you can add adhesive tape under your DT.
Kuota Kom Evo
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bura wrote:My cables are crossing ,too. I would cut some small pieces of hard rubber with a hole in the middle and a slit to pull them over the cables on that spot. Actually one for each cable should be enough. Like Nokon cable pearls but made from rubber and you would not need to uninstall your cables. As said you can add adhesive tape under your DT.
My Shimano shift cables have PTFE coating on them. never had a problem with friction.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
I will normally cross cables but only if they don't touch the frame. I would never install cables that rub the frame as it adds an unknown for shifting performance and will eat through a frame. Just my 2¢ but I would change it.
@tinchy: no problem mate.
@kode54: suggestion made was meant to keep cables slightly away from DT. Not to keep them away from touching each other.No issue with friction of cables.
@kode54: suggestion made was meant to keep cables slightly away from DT. Not to keep them away from touching each other.No issue with friction of cables.
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Cross it up! I've done it on every bike I've owned. As stated above; less tight bends. For internal cabled frames, be careful not to twist up the cable like a rope; you'll definitely go crazy if it does. Take your time feeding the cables in.
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What I'm doing is using two 5cm Nokon cable liner snippets and run the cables through them. Then glue them together with a drop of superglue where the cables cross, so the cables don't rub the frame, and also don't touch each other.
Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX