Debadging 3T seatposts

[Kazyole]

Hey guys,

I just upgraded my frame (cervelo R5) and due to its 73° seat tube and my short legs, I need a zero offset post to get me in a proper position relative to the BB. It also has to be able to fit oval rails, as I ride a fizik kurve snake, which has 7x9 rails.

I'm currently looking at a 3T Stylus 0 LTD, which seems like an attractive option at around 150g which (I'm told) will fit my saddle.

Unfortunately, that light grey stripe doesn't look like it would go well with the rest of my build, so I'm looking to get rid of it. I've done a bit of research and have found that a lot of people debadge 3T stems and handlebars using acetone, but haven't found nearly as much information about removing the graphics from their seatposts. Anyone have any experience doing this?

I figure if anyone would know, it'd be someone on this forum.

I'm also open to other seatpost suggestions. I don't want to spend more than $250 or so USD, I'd like it to be carbon, and I'd like to be at least in the 150g or below range. The primary reason I'm looking at 3T is because my current bars and stem are 3T, but I'm going to have to replace the stem with a longer one anyway, so I'm not necessarily committed to the brand.

[r3awak3n]

3T makes a stealth version of that seatpost I am pretty sure, black graphics on black so you wouldn't have to remove anything.

I have removed logos on a previews 3T team stem and worked out ok, my buddy has it now and I now have a stealth version.

[Kazyole]

They do make one, but it appears to be sold out everywhere. I've see a couple from a german seller on ebay, but I'm not 100% sure it'll fit my rails so I don't want to get one I can't return just in case.

I suppose I could always buy one from somewhere I can return it, check to make sure it fits, and then pick up one of the ebay ones.

Thanks!

[r3awak3n]

be careful with the ebay 3T stuff, I have heard that a good bunch is fake. I would think that German seller wouldn't be a problem.

However I would probably pick one up from here over ebay:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/e ... lsrc=aw.ds

[Kazyole]

Yeah, I'm always a little wary of ebayed bike parts. I'll do a bit more digging and see if I can find it anywhere else.

EDIT: Apparently they're only hard to come by in the US. Found a few from UK retailers, so I ordered one. Hopefully it fits the rails. Returning it I'm sure would be somewhat of a pain in the ass, but better than some ebay seller from germany.

Unfortunately they didn't have the 280mm size, so I had to order a 350 and then I'll have to cut it down.

EDIT 2: Yep, that's the one I ended up buying. Thanks!

[NiFTY]

Just sand the post down and re-clearcoat

[FilmAt11]

^ +1



- Sanded the carbon, re-clearcoated
- Paint remover for the stripe on the metal head part

[Kazyole]

^ +1



- Sanded the carbon, re-clearcoated
- Paint remover for the stripe on the metal head part

Love it. If you don't mind me asking, what grit sandpaper did you use, and what kind of clearcoat did you put on? The stealth one I bought does have some graphics on it that I'll probably want to take off.

[FilmAt11]

I think that I started with 220 grit. You can wrap the sandpaper around the tube and make progress quickly and evenly. Then move to a finer grit (400/600) to smooth it out and finally a steel wool-like sanding pad to finish it off. Matte Krylon (or Rustoleum...can't recall) clear-coat was used - about (3) light coats. Super easy - if you botch the clear coating by spraying too heavily and getting drips, etc. - simply let dry, sand again and repeat.

BTW - After removing the stripe from the metal head part, mask the head with tape prior to sanding so you don't nick the anodized finished while sanding the tube.

[Kazyole]

I think that I started with 220 grit. You can wrap the sandpaper around the tube and make progress quickly and evenly. Then move to a finer grit (400/600) to smooth it out and finally a steel wool-like sanding pad to finish it off. Matte Krylon (or Rustoleum...can't recall) clear-coat was used - about (3) light coats. Super easy - if you botch the clear coating by spraying too heavily and getting drips, etc. - simply let dry, sand again and repeat.

BTW - After removing the stripe from the metal head part, mask the head with tape prior to sanding so you don't nick the anodized finished while sanding the tube.

Thanks for the tips. Looks like I have some supplies to pick up.

[Jugi]

Here is an example Doric LTD (27,2mm / 270mm) which I worked on as a practice round for a 3T Ergonova LTD which I have lying around. Both have the same white / light gray / black colors and as usual, the seatpost has more markings from typical usage. I'm planning on turning both into more of a stealth or pure carbon look.

I bought a sanding set (consisting of 80, 180, 320 and 400 grit sandpapers) and a spray clear coat. The 80 and 180 were meant for dry sanding, 320 and 400 for wet sanding. I skipped the 80 entirely, used the 180 briefly just to break the surface and then proceeded to 320 and finally 400.

Starting condition:



After sanding:


Depending on lighting, the post looked surprisingly gray without any coating. In this picture it happens to stay rather dark.


After clear coat:


The can adviced to apply two layers. When spraying the second one, I decided to stop when the lacquer looked like it started to thicken on the surface. I quite like the end result, as I wasn't aiming for a mirror like shine on it.


The handlebar will propably require three times as much sanding work and more delicate sprays of clear coat, but this gave me a confidence boost to try it when I have some time.

[addictR1]

perfect... i have the same 3T seatpost but the paint was cracked. looks clean with it sanded off. need to get some clear coat. on my other omni racer seatpost, i just sanded and then once dried i spray it with UV protection. not sure if that's ok without clear coat?