Power meter dilemma

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mattjevans
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

Looking at getting a PM. Currently riding on 165mm Red cranks but only have that size because they came off a TT bike. Now back to riding a CX bike as a mixed road / bridle path bike.

Choice is between Stages Rival arm in 165mm or I can source a Riken for about the same price but it's 175mm. Am wondering if I might not be better off with 175 especially as I will use the bike 1x11 sometimes

Thoughts ?

mike
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by mike

Although not inyour choices, i recommend power2max. Works fabulously.

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cyclenutnz
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by cyclenutnz

Longer crank will just mean using 1 gear different from what you're used to, lowering the saddle and bars. You may have increased knee strain but it that hasn't been a problem before it's unlikely to arise now.

If you want to train with power get the Riken.

mattjevans
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by mattjevans

mike wrote:Although not inyour choices, i recommend power2max. Works fabulously.


At least 50% more than my budget, unfortunately

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Tinea Pedis
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by Tinea Pedis

Second hand Classic model would be well worth looking for.

sd5500
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by sd5500

How about the Vector S? I went with Vectors because my Road racing bike, TT bike, and training bike all had different BBs and cranks. Quick easy switch.

mattjevans
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by mattjevans

I'm using speedplay pedals which I like - stages would be the "single side" solution I'd use.

kevhogaz
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Location: Arizona

by kevhogaz

I've got a stages. Based on your need for a same length crank set, I'd say that's your obvious choice, unless you wanna spend the extra money for a spider based PM.

mattjevans
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

I can get a Quarq for the same price as a Stages. Real question for me is 175 vs 165, and should I stay with 165mm cranks (which was a TT fit "prescription") or go longer

davidalone
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Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:27 pm

by davidalone

it is possible to do a DIY quarq cranklength swap without sending it back to the factory. you just need the appropriate crank arm ( either S900 or force22). it's not recommended to do this too often and you need a special loctite but it can be done. you will need to check the calibration after that, but that's rather easily done with Qalvin.

so, you could

1) get the quarq. ride the 175mm for awhile and see if you like it.
2) Like it? ride and be happy
3) don't like it? get a 2nd hand 165mm S900 or force 22. swap out the arms, put the 175 arms on the standard spider , sell it off. ride your new 165mm riken for essentially no $ difference.

mattjevans
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

That's a great idea, thank you

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ergott
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by ergott

165mm to 175mm seems like a pretty big change. I would seek to someone you trust with your fit (presumably your TT fit person) and ask them. The options are out there once you figure out the correct crank length for your needs.

mattjevans
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by mattjevans

My TT fitter and I aren't in the same country any more!

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ergott
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by ergott

Anyone local? I just couldn't personally contemplate that big a difference for me or most riders.

Not even sure why you got 165mm arms for TT since most people trend towards lower cadences thus relying on more torque. Slower cadences have proven to be more aero or something like that.

Do you have particularly short femurs? Don't want to get into internet fit so again, find someone local to help you in your quest.

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mattjevans
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

Hip angle constraint in TT position drove choice of 165mm cranks. not really a consideration in Trek Domane-type road position so I take the "diagnosis" of 165's with a grain of salt

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