Issues installing EPS on Wilier GTR
Moderator: robbosmans
I just picked up a second hand 2014 Wilier GTR and am trying to install Athena EPS V1 but have run into a couple of issues.
The battery is bolted under the downtube using the non standard mount, and I'm using the campag magnet tool to try and thread through the cables. The front mech went through no problem and the one to the interface shouldn't be an issue. But the hole at the rear end of the chainstay is an extremely tight fit. The magnet on the tool just about squeezes through with a bit of force so I can get it though to connect to the rear derailleur cable. I can then bring that back as far as the rear of the chainstay but due to the tight fit the magnet can't pull it through. And even then the actual connector looks to be slightly bigger still so I'm not 100% that would fit if I could get the magnet back through. The frame is advertised as being mechanical, EPS and di2 compatible but I don't see any other way of doing it. Am I missing something obvious? This is my first electronic build.
Second issue is the cable stops on the downtube. Should there be electronic specific ones supplied? I've asked the guy I bought it off if he has any (frame was set up with mechanical) but assuming he doesn't how would I go about getting them? The cable stops are a curved oblong of approximately 24 x 7mm at the widest when the mechanical bits are removed. The standard di2/EPS grommets appear to come in just round or oval shaped.
Any ideas much appreciated. Can take pictures if necessary.
The battery is bolted under the downtube using the non standard mount, and I'm using the campag magnet tool to try and thread through the cables. The front mech went through no problem and the one to the interface shouldn't be an issue. But the hole at the rear end of the chainstay is an extremely tight fit. The magnet on the tool just about squeezes through with a bit of force so I can get it though to connect to the rear derailleur cable. I can then bring that back as far as the rear of the chainstay but due to the tight fit the magnet can't pull it through. And even then the actual connector looks to be slightly bigger still so I'm not 100% that would fit if I could get the magnet back through. The frame is advertised as being mechanical, EPS and di2 compatible but I don't see any other way of doing it. Am I missing something obvious? This is my first electronic build.
Second issue is the cable stops on the downtube. Should there be electronic specific ones supplied? I've asked the guy I bought it off if he has any (frame was set up with mechanical) but assuming he doesn't how would I go about getting them? The cable stops are a curved oblong of approximately 24 x 7mm at the widest when the mechanical bits are removed. The standard di2/EPS grommets appear to come in just round or oval shaped.
Any ideas much appreciated. Can take pictures if necessary.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
The Campy grommets that came with my EPS were terrible, they wouldn't properly fit into the frame and continually fell out. Then tried silicon which wasn't great, eventually worked loos and fell out/into the frame. Best solution I found was Sugru, used it to make a bung shape and moulded it straight into the frame. Been perfect since it was fitted 6 months ago
Right some pictures:
These are the cable stops provided.
The shape of the hole with mechanical stops removed:
This is where I need to bring the cable through to attatch to the rear derailleur. The magnet just about squeezes through but the fit is too tight to bring the rest through with only the power of the magnet. And as seen here the athena connectors don't actually fit through!!
I'm at a bit of a loss really as I bought this frame specifically to build up with EPS (which it's advertised as compatible with). Any ideas??
These are the cable stops provided.
The shape of the hole with mechanical stops removed:
This is where I need to bring the cable through to attatch to the rear derailleur. The magnet just about squeezes through but the fit is too tight to bring the rest through with only the power of the magnet. And as seen here the athena connectors don't actually fit through!!
I'm at a bit of a loss really as I bought this frame specifically to build up with EPS (which it's advertised as compatible with). Any ideas??
You're gonna need a bigger hole. A file should do it. Not joking.
cycling / nature / music
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
That's the answer I feared but expected. Oh well.
So much for being EPS compatible! What's the deal there? I know Record/SR connectors are different, are they smaller? Still though, it's a 2014 frame so surely they knew about Athena? The official website even says "together with a new internal cable routing system compatible with all mechanical or electronic groupsets". Nothing I can do as it was second hand but still rather annoying!
Any ideas on grommets for the downtube? I've not heard back from WIlier but I guess there's nothing generic I can use given the shape of the holes?
So much for being EPS compatible! What's the deal there? I know Record/SR connectors are different, are they smaller? Still though, it's a 2014 frame so surely they knew about Athena? The official website even says "together with a new internal cable routing system compatible with all mechanical or electronic groupsets". Nothing I can do as it was second hand but still rather annoying!
Any ideas on grommets for the downtube? I've not heard back from WIlier but I guess there's nothing generic I can use given the shape of the holes?
This is one of the reasons why I like the di2 better (though I think campy rear shifts are smoother). Since the di2 cables are not attached to anything, you can wiggle and push and pull and get them in from outside (as opposed to just pulling them out from a small hole.)
Now back to your campy... I doubt you want to make the hole larger (warranty issues and all that.) Why don't you just cut the wire, fish it out through the chain stay, and simply solder it back. Obviously you need to wake it waterproof again but it should be a 5 min job....
Now back to your campy... I doubt you want to make the hole larger (warranty issues and all that.) Why don't you just cut the wire, fish it out through the chain stay, and simply solder it back. Obviously you need to wake it waterproof again but it should be a 5 min job....
JBH wrote:Any ideas on grommets for the downtube? I've not heard back from WIlier but I guess there's nothing generic I can use given the shape of the holes?
As I said above, Sugru. Used it on my Foil where the Campy grommets wouldn't fit and its been fine for the last 6 months.
2old4this wrote:Now back to your campy... I doubt you want to make the hole larger (warranty issues and all that.) Why don't you just cut the wire, fish it out through the chain stay, and simply solder it back. Obviously you need to wake it waterproof again but it should be a 5 min job....
Nice idea but that's not something I'd attempt lightly. Photo below of Athena EPS connectors, there are 6 pins in the plug so presumably 6 individual wires inside the EPS cable. Are they sleeved in differently coloured insulation? I have no idea.
cycling / nature / music
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
Thanks guys.
In the end I took a bit of very fine sand paper rolled up and just twisted it gently in the hole until it was big enough to squeeze the cables through. Took a while as I was ultra cautious and definitely more than just the paint had to come off (the cable was getting stuck on the inner edge afterall) but not too much that I'm worried about it.
Had a bit of a faff when the magnet pulled out of the tool and got stuck in the frame but the whole system is connected up now. Just waiting for a couple of drivetrain bits before I can set it up.
And I've got some Sugru on order for the holes.
In the end I took a bit of very fine sand paper rolled up and just twisted it gently in the hole until it was big enough to squeeze the cables through. Took a while as I was ultra cautious and definitely more than just the paint had to come off (the cable was getting stuck on the inner edge afterall) but not too much that I'm worried about it.
Had a bit of a faff when the magnet pulled out of the tool and got stuck in the frame but the whole system is connected up now. Just waiting for a couple of drivetrain bits before I can set it up.
And I've got some Sugru on order for the holes.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com