Ergopower positioning on handlebars.

[vejnemojnen]

Okay, so, it's winter, and I always end up spending too much time and money on my old steelie.

managed to buy an older, but NOS ritchey wcs logic II handlebar, which has quite interesting shape-curve (but it was cheap, and also quite light for an alloy bar, 251gr measured in 44cm size)




I've set up the levers so that the bottom of the brake levers are in line with the straight portion of the drops of the bar. However, probably another good way would be to align the levers so that the hoods have a flat transition with the top of the bars.

Unfortunately, I cannot really reach neither the brake levers, nor the release button (thumbie) with my current setup should I experiment with the alignment of the levers, or shall i just drop this bar and change for something else?



If there's anyone who has experience with setting up these style of bars, I'd greatly appreciate his input. or hers. heh

Regards

ps: also found this one:



here the levers are placed higher up, but this setup looks awful, with more difficulty with reaching those levers.

[ghisallo2003]

For me, the most aesthetically pleasing set up sees the bottom of the brake lever in line with the straight section at the bottom of the bar. This generally leaves a slight drop from tops to hoods, which I think is fine.

The question of your reach is a different one, and could well be a result of overall set up geometry, stem length and saddle drop. Maybe post a picture of your overall set up.

[Raineman]

I saw a simliar thread on another forum, the solution they came up with was change the bars but it might still be worth reading through
http://road.cc/content/forum/139718-i-c ... ake-levers

[vejnemojnen]

I saw a simliar thread on another forum, the solution they came up with was change the bars but it might still be worth reading through
http://road.cc/content/forum/139718-i-c ... ake-levers

my mistake! I've actually commented on that thread twice a few weeks ago, and now I've missed it!

thank you for your reminder

BTW: I agree with your statement on black handlebar tape.. I just like flashy colours.

[RussellS]

I think your problem is the bar shape. I like ergo shaped bars. Love the flat section on the drop. And of course Campagnolo Ergo levers. I use ergo bars with shallow drop. No deep drop bars. Set the levers up so its a flat transition from the bar flats to the hoods themselves up top. And the lever tips always end up being in line with the bottom of the bars. If you took a straight edge and put it along the bottom of the bars you would hit the tips of the levers. Key is bars with shallow drop, no deep drop bars. Drop should be about the length of the Ergo levers. On all my old 9-10 speed Ergo levers its about 14cm from the spot behind the knob to the ends of the levers. I use TTT Morphe bars on all Ergo lever bikes. Flat transition from tops of bars to the hoods and the levers and button are easy to reach when in the drops.

[Hawkwood]

I use TTT Morphe bars on all Ergo lever bikes. Flat transition from tops of bars to the hoods and the levers and button are easy to reach when in the drops.

I've just done a search on TTT Morphe bars and they seem to be rarer than hens' teeth!

[vejnemojnen]

Thanks everyone for the responses.

If I'd manage to find 3ttt Ergopower Forma SL bars in 44cm width cc, I'll jump on the offer, until then, my only alternative for a very compact and nicely shaped bars are 2015 Deda Piega. Those have the same curvature as RHM-Zero lineup, but for 26mm clamp.

If a decent fork with 24-25cm steerer length could be bought cheap, I'd consider going ahead on the vintage bike, but until then, I'm stuck with threaded hs and quill stems.

btw: I know that threaded-ahead converters can be bought for 2-3 bucks, but those are incredibly clumsy and weighty, and look very nasty with the threaded headsets.